litterbox

Hey Guys,

I recently just swapped motors. I'm using an rsx type s tranny, so it's cable. I'm using a Competition Clutch Stage 3 with oem dc5R flywheel (10.5lbs) that has been resurfaced. The clutch is very similar to a clutchmasters stage 3.

Ok so initially when I got the car running, it wouldn't go into gear. I bled and rebled the clutch line which didn't change anything. The slave cylinder is fine and had full range of movement.

Luserkid suggested that I adjust the rod that attaches the clutch pedal to the MC. So I did that. I adjusted it all the way back (away from the firewall). It seemed that the farther back I went, the more it improved and made shifts smoother. I got the car running and shifting correctly..or so I thought...

Problem 1: With the car not moving and in gear and the clutch pressed in, the car will shake somewhat violently. This is with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor and in gear, any gear.

Problem 2: Sometimes after a couple minutes of driving, it can get difficult to get it into gear, only when I'm not moving. This usually happens when Problem 3 happens...

Problem 3: Sometimes after a while of driving, the clutch pedal will lose it's stiffness all of a sudden. This would last for a while (10-20shifts or so) and then the pedal will become stiff again.

It's like the clutch system is losing/gaining pressure randomly. When it has pressure, it's easy to get into gear and the pedal is stiff. When it loses pressure, pedal goes soft and it's hard to get it into gear.

Tricky part is, is that it loses/gains pressure randomly. It goes back and forth. I checked everything, no leaks.

One other thing I did notice was this: With car off, and in neutral, I manually push slave cylinder with my hands and I can hear a swooshing sound at the cap of the clutch MC. I then open it up, and there are tiny air bubbles at the top of the fluid in the clutch MC.

So do you think the problem could be that the clutch MC cap isn't sealing properly and I'm getting air in the lines which is causing the fluctuations in pressure? That makes sense right? Or, do I need a stronger MC to provide the clutch with more pressure?

Jeez this was long. I appreciate any help.

-box

litterbox

School bump.

tthomass

inline

anybody have actual useful information?

litterbox

Come on hookers

Xgen

Same thing happened to me but this was a B18A in my EG converted to use a cable operated clutch.

You'd have to take some pics of the setup and maybe someone will see something you dont, its really hard to fix something over the internet, especally when its not something common like this, I know this dosnt help one bit, and good luck.

cdizzle

try a new cap might as well!

sicones

You with out a doubt have air in your lines or a bad mc or slave, how are you bleeding your clutch???

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You with out a doubt have air in your lines or a bad mc or slave, how are you bleeding your clutch???</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure I have no air in my lines after bleeding. I bled and bled and bled. The way I did it, was to put a rubber tube at the end of the bleeder nipple and submerged that in brake fluid. Then bled.

You guys think my MC could've been slowly dying and this new demand for pressure is killing it quicker?

Also, will an integra clutch MC bolt up and does it provide more pressure than our EG civics?

sicones

the mc for the integra and civic are the same, look under the dash to see if there is any brake fluid leaking from the mc, check the salve, check the lines

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Come on hookers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Suckie Suckie 5 dollar


Anyway.... your using a cable clutch with hydro equipment? I dont know to much of the new K series but for 88-91 clutches wont work with hydro equipment because they are made completely different. But even then thats not the case for you. You say you have pressure and when you do everything is good. Somehow air is getting in there one way or another. I had a small problem like this when i did an auto to manual. Look through all the lines, from MC to slave and tighten them down. I had a tiny tiny leak coming out from the hard to soft line that was causing my problems. You could try that and see what happens.

Also when your bleeding are you bleeding alone or with someone else. When you bleed have someone pumping and you watch the bubbles in the rubber tube.

I highly doubt a bad cap would cause this. The cap is mainly to keep dirt out and not have fluid spill over. It doesnt seal like the radiator. cap.

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also when your bleeding are you bleeding alone or with someone else. When you bleed have someone pumping and you watch the bubbles in the rubber tube.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ya, that's the way I'm doing it.

My clutch line is long as ****, but as long as it's sealed I don't see how that would affect it.

james p.

bump for a good guy!