Striker325

Hello all,
I am in the process of getting all the parts needed to rebuild a b16a motor. I am going to buy everything that is needed. I am also gonna buy with it any other accessories needed.

Here is a quick history on the Vehicle:
Its a 2000 Honda Civic SI

Car was purchased back in
August 2011

The car came with a b16a motor and a s80 transmission. The car had a couple of issues when I bought it. I have fixed them slowly over the time. The first upgrade was skunk2 front upper control arms for camber wear issues. Then I went ahead and purchased a uncut engine harness for it and believe it was very hard to come across a harness that is uncut and that doesn't cost a arm and a leg. The reason why i bought another harness was that the car had speedometer issues (the speedometer was acting crazy jumping all over the place). I went ahead and did some electrical troubleshooting and figured that it was the actual engine harness rather than the speed sensor.
Another issue the car had was that the transmission was leaking oil through the passenger side axle seal. I also did some troubleshooting and after purchasing 2 seals from Honda dealer and replacing the axle twice I gave up and took it to a shop. The shop determined that the bearings that are next to the differential inside the transmission were literally not in tact (they were destroyed and the bearing pieces were inside the transmission swimming
The shop went ahead and replaced all bad bearings and seals.

Another issue that was fixed on the car was that it was leaking motor oil from the crank seal. Problem was fixed at the same shop.

Currently:
The car has always burned some engine oil but now it has gotten much worse (currently burns about a quart of engine oil every month) and it throws greyish smoke when you get on the gas pedal. The time has come to do a rebuild. I am not only just replacing the worn out valve seals/ Piston Rings but I am doing a moderate internal rebuild.

Over the course of the build I am going to be posting updates on how it goes for me as it is my first time rebuilding a engine. (may I emphasize that I am going to be getting help from a friend that has been building motors throughout his entire life.)


So far I have:
AEM 320lph fuel pump
3 row aluminum radiator
70mm throttle body
edelbrock victor x intake manifold





I have a couple of questions.
A question on ARP headstuds and ARP Rod bolts and ARP Main Studs.
What are the part numbers that i need for a b16a engine rebuild. I have seen so many different ones and I am unsure which one is going to work.

Also i am unaware on what kind of headgasket to use. I heard cometic is good but there is also alot of different ones that are avliable. I don't know which part # to get since i will be using stock bore(81mm).

Questions have been solved

B_Swapped93

Forced induction ?? that's overkill unless a high boost set up

Striker325

Yes its going to be for forced induction.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

And you're asking Turbo 101 questions? Done any research?

B_Swapped93

Since you're boosting it, get an OEM HG there's no need for a thin(1 lyr) one,

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

This is a Turbo 101 detail.

Striker325

Here is a update on the parts list.
I picked up the following:
CP pistons compression ratio 10:5.1 (stock bore 81mm)
Cometic Head gasket (I figured out which one to use with my machine shop)
Golden Eagle Intake manifold gasket
Gates Racing Timing Belt
ACL Race Bearings
ARP Main Studs

I also cleaned up the block that is going to be used. It will be getting send for milling.
Here are some pictures

Striker325

Here is an Update:
I currently finished "sort of" cleaning my engine short block.
Picture:


I also picked up my Manley Rods from my local motorsports shop.
Picture of the rods:



Here is the donor ECU (p28 off a 5-speed) that is going to be put into the car with Hondata S300.

Striker325

I have been really busy recently but I have managed to bring an update to this build.

Update:
I Have started by removing the head from the car. It was actually straightforward with a bit of help on removing lines. I took pictures of where which coolant hoses go and where the harness plugs connect.
Here are a some pictures:


(The Bottom end looks like it was running rich and caused some decent deep scratched on the cylinder walls.

The head got sent to the machine shop to get milled and cleaned up.
Here is a shot after the head got milled from the machine shop.




Also got the Victor X intake manfold ready to just drop it in. (pics below)




I am currently in the process of putting the head back together with the new valve train
that i got.
Here is the new valve seals




Here is a shot of the supertech dual springs



I ended using titanium retainers (got a deal!) instead of the metal ones



Took me a couple of tries to reinstall the keepers. (they are tough to put on and patience is the key!)

Here is a shot of the stock valve train

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

What's your end goal?

MiNeSEK

Nice! Looking forward to seeing the results. Good luck!

Striker325

The end goal is to get this motor up and running and make decent (by decent I clarify street car power ~close to 300hp) power with the help of boost.

Striker325

Thanks!

Today I did a bit of progress I installed the fuel pump onto the car. Took a but of struggle to remove the fuel line that has the clamp.

Pics Below:

jbpnoman

I see no mention of upgraded injectors. That would probably be worth looking into. At least check out the RC Engineering Injector Sizing Guide to see what you'll need for your power goals. If you want 300 to the wheels, do the math for making 350-370. There are two reasons behind that. First, 300 to the wheels means making more to the crank, which is the number that matters for injector calculations, and second, you always want to go a little bit bigger for safety.

I'm also assuming you haven't bought the turbo yet. Do a LOT of research before you do, and be ready to spend a pretty penny on something worthwhile. That $500 Emusa kit off eBay **** won't fly for long, and might just take your motor with it when it goes. You should start doing a lot of reading about flow maps, mainly how different turbos build power differently. Assuming you want something with some "pep" for the street, and maybe some weekend track fun, you'll want to remember to keep your spool low, and keep your powerband even.

Striker325

Thanks for the great information. I did research and talked to my tuner. I Ordered what he recommended. The injectors that i got are 750CC saturated so I won't need to run a resistor box.
I still need to get more information on the turbo parts (Before I was planning on running the Emusa turbo kit but we had a car with that setup come to the shop and it didn't do so well on the dyno) . I do have a small garret turbo but i am still undecided if I am going to run it with this build. (information about the turbo is welcomed )

Here is are a few shots of the injectors i got. They are RC 750's



Here is a shot once mounted onto the Intake manifold:

jbpnoman

"Small" doesn't really describe much. Which Garrett is it? They only make a hundred different options

jov818

looking good!

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

Take your time and build a kit piece by piece if you have to. Looks good.

kyden

did RC ever fix the issue on the 750s where it would lock up at certain pressures?

Striker325

Good Morning everyone,

I have a bit of good news and bad news about my build.

The turbo is a Garret T28 A/R 48 with actuator (I asked my friend and it is originally off a nissan 300zx).

The Pistons I have (CP pistons 81mm) were test fitted and the block has too much "piston to wall" clearance (.005) and not all the cylinders were the same clearance.


My friend that has been building engines for years said I am better off getting 81.5mm to be within the .003 piston to wall clearance in order for the motor to be built in its best condition (remember I am building this to be a daily and not a drag car).

I have been doing alot of research on the Turbo setups and turbo is not a joke. It is a serious matter and one needs to be well educated in the turbo field before buying parts (wastegate, blowoff, turbo, manifold... etc.)

Since this is going to be my first build I am rather taking the path of just going high compression N/A. ( I managed to pick up some Arias pistons with about 11.3 compression).

I did research on the Injectors (since they are 750cc which are bigger than expected for a all motor set up), I ended up concluding that I "may" use them for a all motor build but it all ends up depending on the quality of the spray pattern at lower duty cycle.
My tuner stated that the setup will perform better with a "optimal" duty cycle. I am assuming optimal means anywhere around ~70%


On the bright side, The block has been sent to get Bored and Honed to piston spec. I was gonna send it to a nearby shop but I ended up spending a bit more money and sent it to a reputable machine shop known to do amazing bore and hone jobs.

kyden

I would not bother with that turbo. it would actually choke the motor.

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Can't wait to see the update where you're disappointed with NA
But, GLWB.

jbpnoman

Choke the motor? No. Be severely limited, and not capable of maxing out the engine? Probably. The RB20DET's (300ZX stock engine) turbo will have the B16 maxed out around 230 BHP before it starts just blowing hot air. You have to remember, the motor that turbo came bolted to was a 2.0L DOHC. OP has a 1.6L.

kyden

you also have a motor that revs to 8000. yes, it will choke. esp with a .48ar.

Striker325

Good Evening Honda-Tech Members,

Today was a complete Success! First of all I picked up the little b16 block from the machine shop. As I was picking up the block my friend and I managed to get a sneak peak of all their high end CNC machines that they use for porting blocks and head. (They do a lot of V8’s). It was a great experience over all to see how they use the machines to make the lifter seat bigger for much stronger lifters.
Aside from that the Block was finished and the Bore and Hone looked amazing.
Here is a picture of the Block:

Here is a close up view of the hone job done on one of the cylinder walls:

As soon as we got the block we gave it one last “clean-up” and we got to the building right away.
Here is a shot when we started planning out how everything was going to be set up. We set up the rods in order to best balance the motor (Something new I learned about trying to best balance the engine).

Here is a shot once the pistons were assembled with the rods. I noticed that installing the piston wrist locks are sometimes a pain even with experience.

Pistons is getting dropped into the block (Don’t mind the little EJ20 head in the back) :

Once the pistons were all dropped (as we dropped them in we bolted them onto the crank and yes we lubricated the crank and rod bearings before assembling them to the crank and rod. The crank rotates smooth and I will need to break in the motor (research on breaking in the motor is going to be done immediately).


As you can see progress is being accomplished, I learned a lot putting the bottom end together. I managed to install the new oil pump that I purchased from the Honda Dealer but I didn’t take pics to show you guys.
Let me know what you guys think.