Code P0420 : Mechanic says:
12-06-2007, 08:49 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: york, pa, usa
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Code P0420 : Mechanic says:
1998 civic lx 104,000 miles 4dr, automatic
Last week my check engine light went on while I was driving at maybe 40mph. Car seems to run normal. Went to autozone said im throwing a P0420 code, and said I need a new Cat, I did some research and says Catalytic converters usually don't go bad and there is probably another problem associated with it that caused my Cat to fail. (How do I find that out). Also how hard is it to change myself? Anyway I went to Midas for an estimate they said $1143. Then I went to a garage and they said $120 to diagnose your car (its probly not your cat that just faild) and 700 to replace it. Lastly I went to another garage and they said 400 for cat and labor.
My question is should I pay 120 for the diagnostic, I mean if its throwing a P0420, its obviously not my 02 sensor, i dont see how it can be anything else but my cat.
And how hard is it to change a cat on a 98civic. Seems easy to me but i've never had done it before, looks like maybe 12-14bolts from a diagram i saw at autozone. When I looked under my car i didnt see the other end of the cat (maybe its further up to the manifold?)
On a side note, i did hit a dip in the road about 3month prior and bottomed out fairly hard ( no my car is not lowered) and when i looked under nearth it looked like just the metal bar infront botttom was only scrached nothing else looked damaged. And when I discconect my battery and plug it back in the check engine light goes away from about 100miles then comes back on.
Last week my check engine light went on while I was driving at maybe 40mph. Car seems to run normal. Went to autozone said im throwing a P0420 code, and said I need a new Cat, I did some research and says Catalytic converters usually don't go bad and there is probably another problem associated with it that caused my Cat to fail. (How do I find that out). Also how hard is it to change myself? Anyway I went to Midas for an estimate they said $1143. Then I went to a garage and they said $120 to diagnose your car (its probly not your cat that just faild) and 700 to replace it. Lastly I went to another garage and they said 400 for cat and labor.
My question is should I pay 120 for the diagnostic, I mean if its throwing a P0420, its obviously not my 02 sensor, i dont see how it can be anything else but my cat.
And how hard is it to change a cat on a 98civic. Seems easy to me but i've never had done it before, looks like maybe 12-14bolts from a diagram i saw at autozone. When I looked under my car i didnt see the other end of the cat (maybe its further up to the manifold?)
On a side note, i did hit a dip in the road about 3month prior and bottomed out fairly hard ( no my car is not lowered) and when i looked under nearth it looked like just the metal bar infront botttom was only scrached nothing else looked damaged. And when I discconect my battery and plug it back in the check engine light goes away from about 100miles then comes back on.
12-06-2007, 09:01 AM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
If the honeycomb in the catalytic converter isn't functioning properly - the secondary O2 sensor will throw that code for ya.
It's probably just time for a new cat.
As far as you're pricing, those prices are a bit high. You should pay around 200 for a regular catalytic converter, and maybe 120 bucks tops labor.
A new Honda OEM one is like 600 bucks - don't bother with that crap, then again, don't bother with a 30 dollar ebay one either. Get a 200 dollar generic one and it'll suit you fine.
As for changing it yourself? The process isn't "difficult" per-se - but you need impact tools. The exhaust gets very hot while the car is running and with all the expansion/contraction on the piping/bolts/etc. everything becomes seized up in there. It's easier if you got A) an impact wrench, and B) Some mallets.
It's probably just time for a new cat.
As far as you're pricing, those prices are a bit high. You should pay around 200 for a regular catalytic converter, and maybe 120 bucks tops labor.
A new Honda OEM one is like 600 bucks - don't bother with that crap, then again, don't bother with a 30 dollar ebay one either. Get a 200 dollar generic one and it'll suit you fine.
As for changing it yourself? The process isn't "difficult" per-se - but you need impact tools. The exhaust gets very hot while the car is running and with all the expansion/contraction on the piping/bolts/etc. everything becomes seized up in there. It's easier if you got A) an impact wrench, and B) Some mallets.
12-06-2007, 09:12 AM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: (JKov240)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do it yourself, be careful with the bolts/nuts that go into the head...you don't want to break anything off in the head itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where does the catalytic converter go into the head?
There's no reason to disconnect the header...
I'm confused.
Where does the catalytic converter go into the head?
There's no reason to disconnect the header...
I'm confused.
12-06-2007, 09:18 AM
#5
Former Moderator
Re: (Syndacate)
The problem is that your convertor is built into the actual exhuast manifold, making it much more complicated for muffler shops to offer a $200.00 version like all the under cat convertors on say, EX models and such.
I would almost guarantee that your manifold is cracked where the primary oxygen sensor screws into it, and that combined with deteriorated catalyst combs, etc. are the cause of your code.
I work at a Honda/Acura only repaur shop and those manifolds are notorious for cracking.
We won't offer an aftermarket option as they are all 100% **** for your particular car/
You have a handful of options, and I'll list them as best as I can.
1. Buy the exhaust manifold/convertor unit from a Honda dealership, or from an online wholesaler such as http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com as well as buying the exhaust manifold gasket.
Here is the part:
Found here:
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...81%29
It is number 4, and it costs you $418.00. The gasket is #2 and costs $8.79.
To add to the potential cost I should also warn you that the primary oxygen sensor, or #8 almost ALWAYS breaks or is damaged enough to throw it's own code shortly after you swap the manifold out, so I highly suggest buying a new one and replacing at rather than trying to transfer your old from the busted manifold into the new one.
The secondary oxygen sensor, or #9 is usually just fine and should not pose an issue transferrring it.
I highly suggest a Denso brand sensor to save you a bunch of money over the $140.00 Honda wants. If you search Denso Honda oxygen sensors on Ebay or wherever else online you should be able to shang one for $80.00-$100.00 or so.
2. Buy an aftermarket header for a 96-00 Civic EX, then buy a convertor for a 96-00 Civic EX, and then have a muffler shop make the necessary cutting and welding needed for the exhaust to allow the use of the Ex style parts.
This will also require extending wires for the o2 sensors, and over time the sensors may be more likely to throw codes due to their location not being exactly as they are in the stock manifold/convertor configuration.
See the EX uses a regular exhaust manifold that curves under the middle of the engine, and then a completely separate convertor that bolts in between the manifold and the exhaust - THESE are the "$200.00" convertor jobs because they're super easy, and super cheap compared to manifold/convertor assemblies like your LX/DX/CX has.
I would almost guarantee that your manifold is cracked where the primary oxygen sensor screws into it, and that combined with deteriorated catalyst combs, etc. are the cause of your code.
I work at a Honda/Acura only repaur shop and those manifolds are notorious for cracking.
We won't offer an aftermarket option as they are all 100% **** for your particular car/
You have a handful of options, and I'll list them as best as I can.
1. Buy the exhaust manifold/convertor unit from a Honda dealership, or from an online wholesaler such as http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com as well as buying the exhaust manifold gasket.
Here is the part:
Found here:
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...81%29
It is number 4, and it costs you $418.00. The gasket is #2 and costs $8.79.
To add to the potential cost I should also warn you that the primary oxygen sensor, or #8 almost ALWAYS breaks or is damaged enough to throw it's own code shortly after you swap the manifold out, so I highly suggest buying a new one and replacing at rather than trying to transfer your old from the busted manifold into the new one.
The secondary oxygen sensor, or #9 is usually just fine and should not pose an issue transferrring it.
I highly suggest a Denso brand sensor to save you a bunch of money over the $140.00 Honda wants. If you search Denso Honda oxygen sensors on Ebay or wherever else online you should be able to shang one for $80.00-$100.00 or so.
2. Buy an aftermarket header for a 96-00 Civic EX, then buy a convertor for a 96-00 Civic EX, and then have a muffler shop make the necessary cutting and welding needed for the exhaust to allow the use of the Ex style parts.
This will also require extending wires for the o2 sensors, and over time the sensors may be more likely to throw codes due to their location not being exactly as they are in the stock manifold/convertor configuration.
See the EX uses a regular exhaust manifold that curves under the middle of the engine, and then a completely separate convertor that bolts in between the manifold and the exhaust - THESE are the "$200.00" convertor jobs because they're super easy, and super cheap compared to manifold/convertor assemblies like your LX/DX/CX has.
12-06-2007, 09:23 AM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: york, pa, usa
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (JKov240)
Thanks for you speedy reply,
So should I just go for replacing the Catalytic converter, and forget the $120 diagnostic charge? Was looking for anyway to really pinpoint my problem, the mechanic said check engline light codes just point you to the problem area, they do not tell you the problem. Im doing a mpg test right now supposely a clogged cat gets really bad milage, I also heard an odor of rotten eggs is a sign of a bad cat but i dont have any foul smell yet atleast. Also was told extreme heat from the floor is another sign and I dont see that either. Also read somewhere to press the gas and feel the tip of the exhaust but not sure how that is relevant to a bad cat... Also my car is not any louder then normal, so its not cracked. normally a cracked cat would be very loud i assume.
So should I just go for replacing the Catalytic converter, and forget the $120 diagnostic charge? Was looking for anyway to really pinpoint my problem, the mechanic said check engline light codes just point you to the problem area, they do not tell you the problem. Im doing a mpg test right now supposely a clogged cat gets really bad milage, I also heard an odor of rotten eggs is a sign of a bad cat but i dont have any foul smell yet atleast. Also was told extreme heat from the floor is another sign and I dont see that either. Also read somewhere to press the gas and feel the tip of the exhaust but not sure how that is relevant to a bad cat... Also my car is not any louder then normal, so its not cracked. normally a cracked cat would be very loud i assume.
12-06-2007, 09:28 AM
#7
Former Moderator
Re: (seriot)
Have another separate shop or even Auto Zone run a free check engine light scan, and if you get a code P0420 then yes unfortunately you NEED a new convertor.
The issue isn't that it's clogged, or actually it's probably not even too bad emissions wise except that your stock computer in the car is VERY strict about what it requires from the convertor. If your convertor doesn't meet the strict demands of the ECU then you need a new one, even if it's not clogged or smelling like rotten eggs, etc.
Half the ones we pull off would probably allow a sniffer tested older car to pass emission just fine, but the name of the game is keeping the check engine light off to pass state emissions, and thus getting your tag.
Pull off the heat shield, #3, and check the Y junction area of your manifold right where the o2 sensor screws in, and see if it's cracked. most of them crack, and they cannot be rewelded.
If it's not cracked, and if you have no emissions test to pass then forget about it and don't waste your money on fixing it unless the light bugs you.
The issue isn't that it's clogged, or actually it's probably not even too bad emissions wise except that your stock computer in the car is VERY strict about what it requires from the convertor. If your convertor doesn't meet the strict demands of the ECU then you need a new one, even if it's not clogged or smelling like rotten eggs, etc.
Half the ones we pull off would probably allow a sniffer tested older car to pass emission just fine, but the name of the game is keeping the check engine light off to pass state emissions, and thus getting your tag.
Pull off the heat shield, #3, and check the Y junction area of your manifold right where the o2 sensor screws in, and see if it's cracked. most of them crack, and they cannot be rewelded.
If it's not cracked, and if you have no emissions test to pass then forget about it and don't waste your money on fixing it unless the light bugs you.
Trending Topics
12-06-2007, 09:40 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Ramon/Pleasanton, CA, USA
Posts: 1,748
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
Wow wait..... Is it the cat or the O2 sensor after the cat?
The O2 sensor after the cat checks on the cat's efficiency? They do go bad often.
I would suspect the O2 sensor and not the cat. You can pay for the diag on it or just go and replace it. I would replace it.
The O2 sensor after the cat checks on the cat's efficiency? They do go bad often.
I would suspect the O2 sensor and not the cat. You can pay for the diag on it or just go and replace it. I would replace it.
12-06-2007, 09:44 AM
#10
Former Moderator
Re: (thesmogman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thesmogman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow wait..... Is it the cat or the O2 sensor after the cat?
The O2 sensor after the cat checks on the cat's efficiency? They do go bad often.
I would suspect the O2 sensor and not the cat. You can pay for the diag on it or just go and replace it. I would replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen this code well over 20 times over the years and have always replaced the convertor/manifold itself, and NEVER the secondary o2 sensor, and not a single one ever came back with the P0420 code afterwards.
...I'm just saying...
The O2 sensor after the cat checks on the cat's efficiency? They do go bad often.
I would suspect the O2 sensor and not the cat. You can pay for the diag on it or just go and replace it. I would replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen this code well over 20 times over the years and have always replaced the convertor/manifold itself, and NEVER the secondary o2 sensor, and not a single one ever came back with the P0420 code afterwards.
...I'm just saying...
12-06-2007, 09:47 AM
#11
Former Moderator
Re: (thesmogman)
Look if you want to buy a Denso secondary oxygen sensor and replace it for ***** and giggles, but if the code P0420 comes right back on don't blame me.
The secondary oxygen sensor has its own code - P0141 - and it should throw that code if the sensor is bad.
The secondary oxygen sensor has its own code - P0141 - and it should throw that code if the sensor is bad.
12-06-2007, 10:09 AM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Ramon/Pleasanton, CA, USA
Posts: 1,748
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
Isn't the P0141 for the heater?
True I don't do repair work, But I have seen this on alot of cars and have heard from the mech's/my friends what repairs they do the most and it is O2 sensors 80% of the time. Just going with the odd's.
It's not just Honda's, the Toy's and Bmw's are doing this too mostly.
Yes, there is a chance that it is the cat and the O2 is working properly. The only real way to tell is with some diagnosis.
I hate to pay someone to do diag's. But then, I usually don't get charged for diag's either.
True I don't do repair work, But I have seen this on alot of cars and have heard from the mech's/my friends what repairs they do the most and it is O2 sensors 80% of the time. Just going with the odd's.
It's not just Honda's, the Toy's and Bmw's are doing this too mostly.
Yes, there is a chance that it is the cat and the O2 is working properly. The only real way to tell is with some diagnosis.
I hate to pay someone to do diag's. But then, I usually don't get charged for diag's either.
12-06-2007, 10:51 AM
#13
Former Moderator
Re: (thesmogman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thesmogman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't the P0141 for the heater?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes secondary oxygen sensor heater circuit. If we list all the possible error codes for just the secondary o2 sensor it'd be P0137, P0138, P0139, and P0141. It ranges from "voltage high, voltage low, slow to respond, heater circuit" etc. etc. I was giving an example of an error code it'd throw completely separate of a P0420.
I'm not trying to bicker with you, but the last time I checked 100% was more likely than 80%, and that 80% isn't even JUST for the 96-00 Civic is it? Remember when I posted this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Me Two Posts Ago »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have seen this code well over 20 times over the years and have always replaced the convertor/manifold itself, and NEVER the secondary o2 sensor, and not a single one ever came back with the P0420 code afterwards.
...I'm just saying...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not just Honda's, the Toy's and Bmw's are doing this too mostly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
...but I'm talking about this exact same car, right down to knowing exactly where the problem issue lies. I hughly suggest checking for thhe crack in the manifold - this is a unique style convertor with it's own set of issues unlike Toyota, BMW, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, there is a chance that it is the cat and the O2 is working properly. The only real way to tell is with some diagnosis. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sadly enough he could buy a new Denso sensor, a special o2 sensor socket or wrench, and install it himself for half of what a shop will charge to actually do a scan toll reading test on that individual o2 sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to pay someone to do diag's. But then, I usually don't get charged for diag's either.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lucky you.
Yes secondary oxygen sensor heater circuit. If we list all the possible error codes for just the secondary o2 sensor it'd be P0137, P0138, P0139, and P0141. It ranges from "voltage high, voltage low, slow to respond, heater circuit" etc. etc. I was giving an example of an error code it'd throw completely separate of a P0420.
I'm not trying to bicker with you, but the last time I checked 100% was more likely than 80%, and that 80% isn't even JUST for the 96-00 Civic is it? Remember when I posted this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Me Two Posts Ago »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have seen this code well over 20 times over the years and have always replaced the convertor/manifold itself, and NEVER the secondary o2 sensor, and not a single one ever came back with the P0420 code afterwards.
...I'm just saying...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not just Honda's, the Toy's and Bmw's are doing this too mostly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
...but I'm talking about this exact same car, right down to knowing exactly where the problem issue lies. I hughly suggest checking for thhe crack in the manifold - this is a unique style convertor with it's own set of issues unlike Toyota, BMW, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, there is a chance that it is the cat and the O2 is working properly. The only real way to tell is with some diagnosis. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sadly enough he could buy a new Denso sensor, a special o2 sensor socket or wrench, and install it himself for half of what a shop will charge to actually do a scan toll reading test on that individual o2 sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to pay someone to do diag's. But then, I usually don't get charged for diag's either.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lucky you.
12-06-2007, 10:59 AM
#14
Former Moderator
Re: Code P0420 : Mechanic says: (seriot)
Tell you what:
1. Check for a cracked manifold
If it's cracked I'm 100% right, and you need a new manifold/convertor.
2. If it's not cracked then you can try and buy a $80.00-$100.00 secondary oxygen sensor and install it, clear the code (disconnect the negative battery cable or pull the ECU fuse) and see if code P0420 comes back.
In theory a bad secondary 02 sensor *can* cause a false P0420, but on this particular model is isn't likely seeing as how those manifolds/convertors are shitty to begin with.
Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 8:46 AM 12/7/2007
1. Check for a cracked manifold
If it's cracked I'm 100% right, and you need a new manifold/convertor.
2. If it's not cracked then you can try and buy a $80.00-$100.00 secondary oxygen sensor and install it, clear the code (disconnect the negative battery cable or pull the ECU fuse) and see if code P0420 comes back.
In theory a bad secondary 02 sensor *can* cause a false P0420, but on this particular model is isn't likely seeing as how those manifolds/convertors are shitty to begin with.
Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 8:46 AM 12/7/2007
12-06-2007, 02:41 PM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: kingston, ny, usa
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Code P0420 : Mechanic says: (B18C5-EH2)
Honda has a recall for the exhaust manifold cracking.. P0420 Cat Inefficiency
Mine had a crack and they replaced both o2 sensors, the manifold, gaskets and cat for free. Plus a free tune-up. Couldn't go wrong there!
Just something you might want to look into.
Its a 15 year 150000 mile recall I think. Ask your local Honda dealership.
Mine had a crack and they replaced both o2 sensors, the manifold, gaskets and cat for free. Plus a free tune-up. Couldn't go wrong there!
Just something you might want to look into.
Its a 15 year 150000 mile recall I think. Ask your local Honda dealership.
12-06-2007, 02:55 PM
#16
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ca
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Code P0420 : Mechanic says: (geebs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geebs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda has a recall for the exhaust manifold cracking.. P0420 Cat Inefficiency
Mine had a crack and they replaced both o2 sensors, the manifold, gaskets and cat for free. Plus a free tune-up. Couldn't go wrong there!
Just something you might want to look into.
Its a 15 year 150000 mile recall I think. Ask your local Honda dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that recall is only for 96 and 97 year civics..not sure if it applies to 98..it wouldnt hurt to call honda and double check tho
Mine had a crack and they replaced both o2 sensors, the manifold, gaskets and cat for free. Plus a free tune-up. Couldn't go wrong there!
Just something you might want to look into.
Its a 15 year 150000 mile recall I think. Ask your local Honda dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that recall is only for 96 and 97 year civics..not sure if it applies to 98..it wouldnt hurt to call honda and double check tho
12-06-2007, 03:23 PM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where does the catalytic converter go into the head?
There's no reason to disconnect the header...
I'm confused.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
On some of the '96-'00 Civics the catalytic converter is made into the header (it's even more common on newer cars), but some of the older Civics have the cat after the header, before the cat-back.
See B18C5-EH2's post...goes into a bit more detail
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...but I'm talking about this exact same car, right down to knowing exactly where the problem issue lies. I hughly suggest checking for thhe crack in the manifold - this is a unique style convertor with it's own set of issues unlike Toyota, BMW, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cracking in the manifold is as common as dirt on the cars that come with the cat/manifold/header combo. At our shop we use a company called Worldpac that goes directly to Japan and buys the parts from the people that makes the parts for Honda...so pretty much it's OEM, just without the Honda box and price tag (I just can't think of the brand name).
There's no reason to disconnect the header...
I'm confused.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
On some of the '96-'00 Civics the catalytic converter is made into the header (it's even more common on newer cars), but some of the older Civics have the cat after the header, before the cat-back.
See B18C5-EH2's post...goes into a bit more detail
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...but I'm talking about this exact same car, right down to knowing exactly where the problem issue lies. I hughly suggest checking for thhe crack in the manifold - this is a unique style convertor with it's own set of issues unlike Toyota, BMW, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cracking in the manifold is as common as dirt on the cars that come with the cat/manifold/header combo. At our shop we use a company called Worldpac that goes directly to Japan and buys the parts from the people that makes the parts for Honda...so pretty much it's OEM, just without the Honda box and price tag (I just can't think of the brand name).
12-06-2007, 06:23 PM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Funky 600block Norcal
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (JKov240)
Damn if its costing you that much it would be a lot cheaper if you just got an exhaust system from the ex civic. Any generic cat would be weldable into the system.
12-07-2007, 04:54 AM
#19
Former Moderator
Re: (JKov240)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cracking in the manifold is as common as dirt on the cars that come with the cat/manifold/header combo. At our shop we use a company called Worldpac that goes directly to Japan and buys the parts from the people that makes the parts for Honda...so pretty much it's OEM, just without the Honda box and price tag (I just can't think of the brand name). </TD></TR></TABLE>
We also use World Pac, and I looked this one up at the time of my second post or so, and they only offer reman/aftermarket ones. Two are the factory looking ones repainted, while the third is a two piece design almost like a turbo manifold - weird looking.
As far as this goes:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geebs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda has a recall for the exhaust manifold cracking.. P0420 Cat Inefficiency
Mine had a crack and they replaced both o2 sensors, the manifold, gaskets and cat for free. Plus a free tune-up. Couldn't go wrong there!
Just something you might want to look into.
Its a 15 year 150000 mile recall I think. Ask your local Honda dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I too thought it was 96/97, but like JKov240 stated call a local Honda dealership and have your VIN number ready, ask for service, and then ask them about a VIN status inquiry for your car to find out if your warranty for the convertor was the standard 8 years/80,000 miles or the updated 15 years/150,000 miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>We also use World Pac, and I looked this one up at the time of my second post or so, and they only offer reman/aftermarket ones. Two are the factory looking ones repainted, while the third is a two piece design almost like a turbo manifold - weird looking.
As far as this goes:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geebs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda has a recall for the exhaust manifold cracking.. P0420 Cat Inefficiency
Mine had a crack and they replaced both o2 sensors, the manifold, gaskets and cat for free. Plus a free tune-up. Couldn't go wrong there!
Just something you might want to look into.
Its a 15 year 150000 mile recall I think. Ask your local Honda dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I too thought it was 96/97, but like JKov240 stated call a local Honda dealership and have your VIN number ready, ask for service, and then ask them about a VIN status inquiry for your car to find out if your warranty for the convertor was the standard 8 years/80,000 miles or the updated 15 years/150,000 miles.
12-07-2007, 10:29 AM
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We also use World Pac, and I looked this one up at the time of my second post or so, and they only offer reman/aftermarket ones. Two are the factory looking ones repainted, while the third is a two piece design almost like a turbo manifold - weird looking.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It may be aftermarket, I'd have to check that one out. It more than likely is because it's the weird 2 piece one...but we've yet to have any issues with replacing the OE ones with the aftermarket.
It may be aftermarket, I'd have to check that one out. It more than likely is because it's the weird 2 piece one...but we've yet to have any issues with replacing the OE ones with the aftermarket.
05-12-2013, 02:29 PM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (thesmogman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thesmogman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow wait..... Is it the cat or the O2 sensor after the cat?
The O2 sensor after the cat checks on the cat's efficiency? They do go bad often.
I would suspect the O2 sensor and not the cat. You can pay for the diag on it or just go and replace it. I would replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen this code well over 20 times over the years and have always replaced the convertor/manifold itself, and NEVER the secondary o2 sensor, and not a single one ever came back with the P0420 code afterwards.
...I'm just saying...
The O2 sensor after the cat checks on the cat's efficiency? They do go bad often.
I would suspect the O2 sensor and not the cat. You can pay for the diag on it or just go and replace it. I would replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen this code well over 20 times over the years and have always replaced the convertor/manifold itself, and NEVER the secondary o2 sensor, and not a single one ever came back with the P0420 code afterwards.
...I'm just saying...
Since you've worked with this code, let me ask you a question.
3 years ago (50k miles ago), when my 98 civic LX was @ 100k miles, I replaced the cracked manifold/cat converter as well as the whole cat back unit. I did so with all Bosal parts. as well as new 02 sensors
Since last year ive been getting the p0420 code.
I cant imagine why...its brand new! Only thing I can think is that maybe because I use Lucas Gas treatment every few months or that I've 'seafoamed' my car a few times.
would you suggest I replace my nearly new cat converter?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
