90civichb

Short and Sweet Version at the bottom if you think you can help with less detail...

My friend just installed a jdm b18c in to his eh3 hatch... After the install he realized that he had a 2500rpm rev limit.. We checked the codes and got code 7 (TPS) and code 23(knock)...

We spent a while trying to figure out what the deal was with his tps (already knew that knock wasn't connected).. We kept trying to get a voltage reading from the TPS, but weren't having any luck. Finally after several attempts to get a voltage reading, we decided to try to reset the ECU and see if it still showed the code..

After reseting the ECU (by pulling the ECU fuse) We now had 2 new codes...

In all the codes were:
code 6 (coolant temp sensor)
code 7 (tps)
code 22 (vtec pressure valve)
code 23 (knock)

First of all, how could these codes have just randomly shown up when all we did was test voltage from the TPS with a voltmeter?

He started his car up, backed it in to the garage and shut it down...

We decided to call it a night after this....

The next day, he goes to his car, jumps the service connector, and tries to read the codes.. CODE 0.... wtf?

He then tried again with a p28 to see if something had happened to his p72.. code 0 again.. How could both ecus have just mysteriously gone bad at the same time? The p28 was pulled just a week ago for the swap...


Short and Sweet:
eh3 Hatch with JDM b18c (w/d16z6 wiring harness)
Had code 7 and code 23, checked tps voltage, reset ecu, got new codes 6 and 22... Ended work on car after moving it in to garage.. Came out a day later and tried to read codes and got code 0 on the p72, then again on the original p28.... Any help?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.. this is retarded....

90civichb

hot out tonight.. maybe a freeze will fix my code 0 woes.. lol

gaydm.accord

hmmm... how do you guys get a code 0 ?

if its the code for ecu.. i would check your ecu fuse. this happened to me last week. i still have no idea why it went out. it was hot as **** i went over some tiles on the floor which was rather bumpy and then it died half off the curb. checked my obd1 connecter and had the cel stay on. then i finally checked the fuse and sure enough that was that.

chad

code zero as in there is NOTHIGN THERE?? or engine light stays solid??

if nothing there then there are no codes!!! DUH!

90civichb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">code zero as in there is NOTHIGN THERE?? or engine light stays solid??

if nothing there then there are no codes!!! DUH!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't know what code 0 is, don't reply! DUH!

But in all seriousness, code zero is a steady (non-blinking) CEL when you jump the service connector.........(as far as I know, if not, someone enlighten me as to what this means.)

gaydm.accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by '92-00 civic/del sol FAQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

[FAQ] ECU thread. Codes, wiring pinouts and more. New and Improved Ecu thread « » 9:52 AM 3/7/2005 Reply Edit

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Way to check codes on your 92-95 civic.
If you go to passanger side kick panel and raise up the carpet u sould see your ecu. and above your ECU there will be a lil plug. iIts grey. with 2 wires coming out of it. One wire is black with a white stripe and the other is a red with a black strip.. I take a spare piece of thin speaker wire and cut off both ends so that the actual copper of the wire is showion on both ends. i twist up both ends so that they are in a nice point. stick one end of the wire into the fist socket on the plug. The other end of the wire into the other socket. Turn your key to the ON position.. dont start your car. just to the ON position. Watch your check engine light on your cluster. it will flash.. 1 long flash is 10. the quick flashes are one. so if ur CEL goes !.....!!! that is a code 13. !....!....!!!!! code 25. then take the code #'s and hop on this thread and see what it is. i hope i could help you all.
Here is a how to video for checking CEL Right Click Save As

here is a pic of the Jumper to check the codes


1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171263


reset your ecu again and start the car up. then see if you still throw any codes. sometimes it will glitch and throw false codes. its only happened to me a few times and i just reset it and it works again.


after just finishing up my b16 swap in my ej6 i also had the code 6 and 22 pop up. that was because i had the plugs mixed up. the water temp sensor is located on the head itself not the one on the coolant housing.

siregcivic

unhook your battery positive and negative for 5 minutes.. then hook it back up and try to start it... if it throws a code when u start it jump the connector then dont shut it off or anything ... get the code.. shut it off.. start it again and see if any more pops up.. thats how i do it just to make shure