g230sport

okay, left my buddies house tonight heading over to a friends place. it was a pain to work into first, unusual. also second so on and so on.

i told him im taking him home and meet me at my house. so i get too look into it tommorow

couple things to help figure it out.

when in gear, with the clutch in, it is still partially engaged, the car wants to move, but its just loaded down like the clutch is grabbing.

the clutch pedal had been funny, like releasing like an inch off the floor and its been like that for over a year with the previous owner.

pretty much something came apart, or went bad.

my guesses are either the fork is out of place, something slipped(not sure if theres any splined parts near the fork or anything.) or the clutch master or slave cylinder went bad on me.

i need to get this straight, this is my dd, i need to get to work monday.

any ideas?

thi3v3z

Well first, make sure your slave master cylinder is full of fluid. Then i would bleed the system to make sure you have no air in the system and check the slave cylinder for leaks. Then if those dont fix the problem, it sounds like your SMC is bad.

Former User

What year Civic? I think you should try adjusting the clutch pedal.

g230sport

its a 94. i crawled under the dash when i got home with a flashlight and it looks like theres a pin, then that will let the rod drop a little. then grab the actual threaded rod and turn it in some(or out, ive never seen this problem at work yet, so its new to me) and then put the pin back etc.

i think ill try and bleed it first. then if that doesnt work, ill adjust the pedal. if none of that fixes it, what should i try next? slave cylinder? or clutch master cylinder? how to tell if either is bad? im trying to learn too! haha

Thanks

John

g230sport

okay, so, pulled the boot on the slave back, it was full of fluid. went down to napa and got one for 20 bucks. stuck it on, bled it, and it was good. drove around the block, and problem was back. talked to my dad(mechanic of 25+ years) and the mechanic i work for and its looking like ill need a clutch. more than likely the pressure plate springs...

any reccomendations on a clutch? my dad highly reccomends a sachs clutch, but im concerned with how that will work with the lightened flywheel it has.

any ideas?

thi3v3z

Ive never had a problem with Exedy. I just wouldnt recommend buying a clutch off of ebay, i worry about the knockoffs, and "OEM Style" parts.

g230sport

im pretty sure ill go with a sachs. when i worked with my dad, thats what he used on every single clutch job and never had a come back. he said itll hold just as strong as that, but the pedal will be nice and firm, and it will last a long while. and itll set me back 120 bucks my cost, if not less.

looks like ill be pulling the trans and doing my first clutch job saturday night after work.

anything i should do while im in there? while stuff is apart, im going to clean the hell out of it, like the oily block, and greasy trans. i want my aluminum back!

thi3v3z

Well i imagine you will get a clutch kit, which should include a new throw out bearing, and a new pilot bearing. You should prolly have your flywheel resurfaced, and if your near 100000 miles, its not a bad idea to replace rear main seal.

g230sport

cars got 138k on the clock. its got a lightened flywheel, so im not sure how that would do getting resurfaced, or even how bad it is, that clutch had only been in there like 35k or so. if everything looks good when torn down, i may just leave the flywheel in it. the clutch thats in it still grabs like a mother but didnt want to dissengage until we adjusted the clutch rod.

K20AEK

what year?

g230sport

94.

pretty sure ive narrowed it down to a clutch issue. the pedal is far from soft, and after adjusting, i can now drive it, but im not sure for how long. i dont want to be stranded because i can shift it while its running...

TravisCadello

bleed it, if same thing replace master and slave clyl's 30 bux and 15 bux for slave

thi3v3z

well if ur peddle has resistance, its not your SMC, or slave cylinder, definately sounds clutch related. Im very surprrised ur clutch only lasted 35k.

TravisCadello

when my probe had master and slave cyl problems i drove it and with clutch fully pressed in it wanted to move a little. i drove it 15 miles and burned up a brand new clutch i had just put in it. had 1200 miles on the clutch. when i pulled the clutch again it was nasty.

So dont risk that OP just buy a master and slave and bleed away

g230sport

i am too, again, not positive it only has 35k, thats what i was told. i guess ill find out what i had in there when i get it apart.

any reccomendations on clutches priced less than 200 bucks? sucks i still have to pay for the car, and it needs a clutch... and its not that its wore out, its those damn springs. its gotta be. the thing doesnt slip one bit, but it just doesnt dissengage and the pedal is all there... ugh

thi3v3z

When i replaced my clutch i went with exedy stage1, I think i paid 300 for the clutch, pressure plate and all the bearings. If u think the pressure plate is find, im sure u can find a disc cheap.

g230sport

im pretty sure the pressure plate needs to be replaced. its my first 5 spd, so excuse my terms. but the pressure plate has the fingers that push the disc against the flywheel right? if so, im pretty sure those springs went bad, and that wasnt letting it dissengage correctly. i might have it wrong, but i think thats kind of what happened.

thi3v3z

if your pressure plate was bad, you wouldnt have the problem of the car stayin in gear, ud have the problem of the car not being able to move.

thi3v3z

id replace the Clutch Master Cylinder, before you drop the transmission.

g230sport

you guys think it could be the mc?

i know i saw a little bit of goop on the boot the rod comes through inside the car. i though eh, its just a little tiny big, but ill pull the boot back and check that. maybe ill get lucky and that will fix it.

i know my pops did tell me that peformance clutches requires more pressure, and they usually wear out the hydraulic system.

could the smc not be providing enough pressure to move the fork enough. i know the slave is good, i replaced it this morning, and had no issues after adjusting the clutch rod.

TravisCadello

YES! it is staying in gear and is driving good only has air in the dam hydrolic lines or a weak MC. try bleeding it first. you cant automatically assume the worst has happen!

thi3v3z

Well before u spend all the time and money replacing clutch, do some quick easy checks. Check EVERYTHING on the clutch system for leaks. Check the master cylinder, check the lines, check the slave. Make sure there is 0 leaks, no fluid anywhere. If there are no leaks. Then have a friend get in the car, and have him push in on the clutch while you stand at the front of the car and watch the clutch fork. You will have to pull back the rubber boot to see. If he pushes on the clutch and it doesnt extend the piston, and you have NO leaks. its you master cylinder seal or air in the lines.

TravisCadello

You say you replace the slave then replace the master thats what builds and pushes pressure. make sure you bled the system GOOD!. If not then it will be the problem cause if its not bled good that the problem for sure.

Take it to a tranny shop and pay 25 bux for them to bleed it for you and ill bet it works. just dont drive it to the shop unless u wanna buy a new clutch after it wares out from being rode.

thi3v3z

You said u replaced slave? did u bleed the system?

thi3v3z

To properly bleed, you need 2 people. One pushes on the clutch peddle, and leaves it down. With the peddle down, the other opens the bleeder valve, and waits til the pressure is gone. Then you tighten the bleeder, and have your friend let up on the clutch. It is vital that they leave the pedal down the whole time, or they will suck air into the system and you will get no where. After you tighten the screw. Check the fluid level on the master cylinder. do this every time, as you dont want your fluid to get low, and to suck in air. you should pretty much do this until you use up an entire bottle of brake fluid to be sure you have fully checked the system.