clutch master upgrade options
#1
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clutch master upgrade options
I know Omni makes an upgraded clutch master cylinder that provides almost a 50% reduction in pedal travel, but I'm wondering if there are any other options available. As far as I know, all OEM clutch master cylinders that would fit an EJ/EM or DC are 5/8". Correct me if I am wrong.
I have adjusted my clutch pedal as far as it's going to go and have thoroughly bled the system but the clutch pedal needs to be to the friggin' floor for the clutch to disengage. And even then it doesn't always disengage. The clutch master and slave are both brand new OEM parts. I'm running an ACT stage 1 street disc with HDSS pressure plate and streetlite flywheel. Good setup, but I'm weary as to why I'm in the predicament I'm in.
I have adjusted my clutch pedal as far as it's going to go and have thoroughly bled the system but the clutch pedal needs to be to the friggin' floor for the clutch to disengage. And even then it doesn't always disengage. The clutch master and slave are both brand new OEM parts. I'm running an ACT stage 1 street disc with HDSS pressure plate and streetlite flywheel. Good setup, but I'm weary as to why I'm in the predicament I'm in.
#3
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Having to goto the floor is just how the clutch is, especially if its new. If its not diengaging correctly tho, that may because you are bleeding your clutch line improperly.
#4
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Re: (97Ej6mike)
I've gone through bleeding the line many times and I'm confident it is bled properly. Trust me, I've been on that page for a while. 8k miles later on the clutch though, and it's still giving me trouble.
From what I see of the clutch pedal, it seems that whenever the clutch pedal is depressed, the pedal mount and firewall is flexing instead of actuating the clutch master cylinder enough. The damn pressure plate isn't that stiff though, so wtf. 2 bolts mounting the clutch master to the pedal doesn't seem sufficient to me to hold it in place. The pedal also doesn't seem to be very high when it is all the way up.
Those two observations could explain why the clutch isn't disengaging. Not that there's air in the line but simply because the volume of fluid moving through isn't sufficient. Whatever it may be, I need a fix for it.
From what I see of the clutch pedal, it seems that whenever the clutch pedal is depressed, the pedal mount and firewall is flexing instead of actuating the clutch master cylinder enough. The damn pressure plate isn't that stiff though, so wtf. 2 bolts mounting the clutch master to the pedal doesn't seem sufficient to me to hold it in place. The pedal also doesn't seem to be very high when it is all the way up.
Those two observations could explain why the clutch isn't disengaging. Not that there's air in the line but simply because the volume of fluid moving through isn't sufficient. Whatever it may be, I need a fix for it.
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Re: (Blk00EJ8)
I think you are having trouble because you adjusted something that you really have no need to adjust, in terms of performance that is. Have you tried setting your clutch pedal back to where it origonally was yet? Id say put it back to where its supposed to be and see if that helps at all.
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Re: (Blk00EJ8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have adjusted my clutch pedal as far as it's going to go and have thoroughly bled the system but the clutch pedal needs to be to the friggin' floor for the clutch to disengage. And even then it doesn't always disengage. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Was your clutch engaging/disengaging fine before you adjusted the pedal as far as it can go?
I have adjusted my clutch pedal as far as it's going to go and have thoroughly bled the system but the clutch pedal needs to be to the friggin' floor for the clutch to disengage. And even then it doesn't always disengage. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Was your clutch engaging/disengaging fine before you adjusted the pedal as far as it can go?
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#8
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Re: (daluv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daluv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Was your clutch engaging/disengaging fine before you adjusted the pedal as far as it can go?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that's why I adjusted it. All the way out is barely enough when it works, hence why I need an alternative solution. I haven't been driving my Civic for quite some time now because I've been trying to figure out why it's being such a bastard.
Was your clutch engaging/disengaging fine before you adjusted the pedal as far as it can go?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that's why I adjusted it. All the way out is barely enough when it works, hence why I need an alternative solution. I haven't been driving my Civic for quite some time now because I've been trying to figure out why it's being such a bastard.
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Re: (Blk00EJ8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've gone through bleeding the line many times and I'm confident it is bled properly. Trust me, I've been on that page for a while. 8k miles later on the clutch though, and it's still giving me trouble.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gotchya, wasnt trying to insult your ways, just checking.
Only thing in my mind would be the pressure plate, but those are never a problem until the clutch assembly iself is really shot. As far as you've mentioned, it sounds like its in working order.
Gotchya, wasnt trying to insult your ways, just checking.
Only thing in my mind would be the pressure plate, but those are never a problem until the clutch assembly iself is really shot. As far as you've mentioned, it sounds like its in working order.
#10
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Re: (97Ej6mike)
Yea, the pressure plate seems fine. I drove it this past Sunday actually. It was a little stubborn to get into gear at times but I had to be more precise with the shifting.
My explanation as to why it worked is because it was pretty damn hot out, causing fluid expansion and just enough extra volume to disengage. I know it's a stretch, but I tried driving it that same night, only a few hours later, and it simply would not cooperate again.
My explanation as to why it worked is because it was pretty damn hot out, causing fluid expansion and just enough extra volume to disengage. I know it's a stretch, but I tried driving it that same night, only a few hours later, and it simply would not cooperate again.
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Re: (Blk00EJ8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, that's why I adjusted it. All the way out is barely enough when it works, hence why I need an alternative solution. I haven't been driving my Civic for quite some time now because I've been trying to figure out why it's being such a bastard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, I thought you adjusted it to try and get the results the omni MC gives you, but from your stock MC. Hmmm, seems like quite a pickle you're in dude! Your firewall flexing is definatley not a good sign. Just a shot in the dark here, but is your throw out bearing ok, and is it setting on the clutch fork ok? One of my cousins had a similar problem, and it turned out to be that one of the tabs on his clutch fork broke, and his throwout bearing kept slipping off of the remaining tab, making it a bitch to shift into and out of gears time to time.
No, that's why I adjusted it. All the way out is barely enough when it works, hence why I need an alternative solution. I haven't been driving my Civic for quite some time now because I've been trying to figure out why it's being such a bastard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, I thought you adjusted it to try and get the results the omni MC gives you, but from your stock MC. Hmmm, seems like quite a pickle you're in dude! Your firewall flexing is definatley not a good sign. Just a shot in the dark here, but is your throw out bearing ok, and is it setting on the clutch fork ok? One of my cousins had a similar problem, and it turned out to be that one of the tabs on his clutch fork broke, and his throwout bearing kept slipping off of the remaining tab, making it a bitch to shift into and out of gears time to time.
#12
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Re: (daluv)
Yea, the throwout bearing and fork appear to be fine -- I just looked at them when I dropped the tranny to replace the TOB a few weeks ago in the meantime. I did so because it was squeaking all the time, and I was having clutch disengagement problems before that and still after so I can rule that out. Good suggestion though.
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Just to clarify, you did adjust the pedal assembly? Removed the cotter pin, removed dowel pin, spun the bracket back on the adjusting rod, and reassembled?
I had this same problem that i couldn't figure out for the life and me after i changed my clutch master and slave cylinder. Turns out I needed to adjust the pedal itself. Been fine ever since.
And the only other thing i could think of would be the clutch master or slave cylinder itself. New parts don't mean good parts.
I had this same problem that i couldn't figure out for the life and me after i changed my clutch master and slave cylinder. Turns out I needed to adjust the pedal itself. Been fine ever since.
And the only other thing i could think of would be the clutch master or slave cylinder itself. New parts don't mean good parts.
#14
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Re: (94hatchling)
Yes, it was adjusted... and can't be adjusted any more. I don't suspect either cylinder though, as both hold pressure just fine as tested.
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Re: (Blk00EJ8)
hmm...
i'd say its possible the springs in the hub of the clutch disk came out causing it to lock up. they dont have to completely fall out either, just not seat in the hub and drag the flyhweel bolts behind it. thats what just happened to me. 2 springs fell out and i only had about 17k miles on the setup. thats the last time i buy an ACT kit.
BUT, back on topic, i doubt that your's has already taken a dump at 8k, but thats the only thing i can think of.
i'd say its possible the springs in the hub of the clutch disk came out causing it to lock up. they dont have to completely fall out either, just not seat in the hub and drag the flyhweel bolts behind it. thats what just happened to me. 2 springs fell out and i only had about 17k miles on the setup. thats the last time i buy an ACT kit.
BUT, back on topic, i doubt that your's has already taken a dump at 8k, but thats the only thing i can think of.
#18
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Re: (94hatchling)
After all the times something stupid has completely owned me while working on my car, I've stopped ruling things out too quickly. It's possible my clutch could be taking a **** on me already... and I'm keeping it in mind... but I hope not.
Anyone else with a suggestion?
Anyone else with a suggestion?
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s1ngle
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09-21-2005 12:01 PM