smurff311

I've had problems one and off for the past year with my clutch. The pressure absolutely drops. Ive had a new slave cylinder installed within a year. I've made sure the brake fluid is up because it has actually fixed my problem occasionally (oddly enough and idk why) It's in the shop as we speak so im ready to fork over $300 for a $80 problem is my guess. Ive read my haynes manual for the clutch probably the 3rd time, section 8-3 if any one has a EG. To make sure you know im not a totally retarded n00b i did search and found one other forum like mine. Basically suggestion to flush the clutch fluid and replacing master or slave. both of these things are supposedly realtively easy. ( I like cars alot and driving them even more but am no mechanic) Could the reason being why i lost all pressure in my clutch for probably the 4th time this year is because i constantly down shift (by constantly i mean like every corner) And when i do down shift i slowly let the clutch out so that causes like a reverse whip-lash.

In Conclusion:
1) How easy would it be to find the problem of why i lost pressure in my clutch?

2) How easy would it be to fix/replace?

3) Reason why i might have lost the pressure in my clutch?

4) Could it possibly be that the disc has gone bad after 125k?

snatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smurff311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could the reason being why i lost all pressure in my clutch for probably the 4th time this year is because i constantly down shift (by constantly i mean like every corner) And when i do down shift i slowly let the clutch out so that causes like a reverse whip-lash.
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I highly doubt it. Downshifting is part of driving a manual transmission car, and most people do it at corners.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smurff311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) How easy would it be to find the problem of why i lost pressure in my clutch?
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Since you've already replaced the slave cylinder at the transmission, next two things to do are to check the master cylinder for leakage and bleed the system. Look underneath the dash right where the clutch connects through the firewall and checks for leaks around that seal, that's where the master cylinder often leaks at. Next, bleed the clutch system, this will purge any air out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smurff311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) Reason why i might have lost the pressure in my clutch?
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Air could have gotten in there when your slave cylinder was changed, or when you filled up the resevoir if it was too low, it's a possibility.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smurff311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4) Could it possibly be that the disc has gone bad after 125k?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's possible, but if the disc goes bad usually you will have problems getting the car in gear, not so much with pedal pressure, although you could. After 125k it could be time for a new clutch kit, (disc, pressure plate, etc.), but like I said, when the clutch disc goes out or wears out, usually the clutch will start to slip, it might be hard to get into gear because the clutch isn't disengaging fully, etc. Yours sounds like a fairly intermittent problem that is commonly caused by air being in the system.

flood

I know this won't help you fix your clutch but I thought of it when reading your post.

When you downshift blip the throttle to keep the revs matched. So when you enguage the clutch the RPMs match and you get less clutch wear. It takes practice but your downshifts can become seamless.

Its technically called heel toe. You may already do this, but thought I would mention it in case you didn't.

smurff311

yes i do this when i drive by myself which is the majority of the time....ill never try to match the down shifting past 5k....and i do like heel toe for last minute turns while keeping the torque curve up because as all honda owners know they dont work that well till 4-5k rpms

thanks and air did get in it and flushing was necessary....replacing slave and master was a safe move and shifts just fine now. thanks guys