Clutch lines, or cluth itself shot?
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Clutch lines, or cluth itself shot?
I recently swapped my lx civic from auto to manual and i have hit a few snags, the major one being that once the car is remotely warmed up - the clutch slips like it doesn't even exist..... however when it is just started and cold yet... no slip. I can hardly get around sometimes. my clutch lines are all metal ( no rubber ) but the fittings on the slave cylinder are questionable..... I want to know what might be happening? Thanks!
#2
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Re: Clutch lines, or cluth itself shot? (civicdriverzero1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicdriverzero1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently swapped my lx civic from auto to manual and i have hit a few snags, the major one being that once the car is remotely warmed up - the clutch slips like it doesn't even exist..... however when it is just started and cold yet... no slip. I can hardly get around sometimes. my clutch lines are all metal ( no rubber ) but the fittings on the slave cylinder are questionable..... I want to know what might be happening? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
First, what does "once the car is remotely warmed up - the clutch slips like it doesn't even exist" mean?
When you're driving it after it's warm?
Second, did you bleed the clutch lines properly?
Third, what do you mean the fittings on the slave cyl are questionable?
First, what does "once the car is remotely warmed up - the clutch slips like it doesn't even exist" mean?
When you're driving it after it's warm?
Second, did you bleed the clutch lines properly?
Third, what do you mean the fittings on the slave cyl are questionable?
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Re: Clutch lines, or cluth itself shot? (EKcivicEX)
Allright, I have roughly ten minutes after i start the car before the clutch starts slipping like crazy.... and if i have to stop completely it is almost hopeless to get going again. The lines should be properly bled, and by 'questionable' i mean that i had to find a metric fitting to fit on the clutch lines to match the slave cylinder, but i had to make a new flare on the end with a flaring tool. I read once that if the clutch fluid gets too hot, then it can boil and then the clutch won't make good contact anymore. I plan on buying new clutch lines anyways most likely the steel braided unit off ebay... but i need to know if that will fix it or not... or if i have to save for a new clutch. Any ideas?
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Re: Clutch lines, or cluth itself shot? (civicdriverzero1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicdriverzero1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Allright, I have roughly ten minutes after i start the car before the clutch starts slipping like crazy.... and if i have to stop completely it is almost hopeless to get going again. The lines should be properly bled, and by 'questionable' i mean that i had to find a metric fitting to fit on the clutch lines to match the slave cylinder, but i had to make a new flare on the end with a flaring tool. I read once that if the clutch fluid gets too hot, then it can boil and then the clutch won't make good contact anymore. I plan on buying new clutch lines anyways most likely the steel braided unit off ebay... but i need to know if that will fix it or not... or if i have to save for a new clutch. Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're stopped and the clutch doesn't bite, then it sounds like the clutch isn't grabbing the flywheel. It didn't sound like it, but were the clutch and flywheel new when you installed them? And did you clean the friction surfaces before putting them in?
If you can engage and disengage the clutch with no leaks, the lines should be fine. If the clutch fluid boils, it would act like is wasn't bled properly... you wouldn't be able to disengage the clutch. If it was leaking, you would notice the drips pretty easily after stepping on the clutch pedal a couple of times.
If you're stopped and the clutch doesn't bite, then it sounds like the clutch isn't grabbing the flywheel. It didn't sound like it, but were the clutch and flywheel new when you installed them? And did you clean the friction surfaces before putting them in?
If you can engage and disengage the clutch with no leaks, the lines should be fine. If the clutch fluid boils, it would act like is wasn't bled properly... you wouldn't be able to disengage the clutch. If it was leaking, you would notice the drips pretty easily after stepping on the clutch pedal a couple of times.
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