project_mercy

Just finished swapping a B16 (JDM with LSD from HMO) into my VX (full dummy's guide soon to come).

No codes or anything, but I do have a weird semi-intermitent clunking sound. My first thought was "axles", but the sound isn't constant, and it's loudest with clutch in, and decelerating in a straight line, especially if I tap my brakes. That said, the brakes aren't necessary to force this, and the sounds is rare if I brake with the clutch still engaged.

Edit: I've noticed the clicking is growing worse (or maybe I'm just more sensitive now) as I've been driving it. It was actually clicking during just driving. When driving, it sounds a lot like a baseball card in the spokes of your bicycle, cept with metal. I've parked it for now.

I've been doing searches all morning, but haven't come up with anything conclusive.

Points of note:

1.) I'm running Mobil 1 10w30 in my trani right now, and not Honda MTF. I saw that King sells LSD MTF, but I'm not sure if that's only for clutch style LSDs, or for all LSDs.

Edit: Bought good 'ole Honda MTF. Going to flush in some cheap dino 10w30 first.

2.) I pulled the knuckles off completely and replaced the lower ball joints during the swap.

3.) My steering still feels 'snappy' (for an old manual-rack civic)

4.) I don't feel the clunking especially in the steering wheel, at least anymore than anywhere else.

5.) I've taken passengers along and we've tried to "feel" out the noise, it seems it's coming from the middle to right side of the car. Drivers left foot can't feel it, driver's right foot can kinda feel it. Passenger can feel it in both feet. There's some contention (based on the passenger) as to which foot it is though (unfortunatly).

6.) There's no sound if the car isn't moving. I can run the engine in neutral or clutch in at a stand-still, no clunking.

7.) I took it apart last night and retorqued all the ball joints, the axle nuts, lower control rod bolt, and made sure the axles were firmly seated.

Edit: Tried the shake test, see below. Couldn't get anything to move unexpectedly.

I'd love to just replace everything, but having just finished the swap, my funds are a bit on the tight side, so I need to be a bit focused if I can help it.

Any suggestions?

Also, if the halfshaft (intermediate shft) goes, does it make a clunking sound? I spun it manually before mounting it, and it spun freely without any binding or noise (as did both wheel hubs).

Thanks in advance.




Modified by project_mercy at 11:55 AM 9/14/2004

racekar

im also haveing the same problem a wierd clunking noise

i have a jdm b16 sir II motor with lsd in a 94 cx with integra non abs axles

pane93civhb

i have a weird clunk sound also i get it sometimes when i turn real hard and smash the gas and the car wants to launch off only happens in lower gears though.. no specific time not all the time. nothing bad has happened becuz of it. and I think its a problem that follows the EG's for some reason cuz i can hear it sometimes in my stock ex coupe also. its like a knock. lil people in the engine trying to get out. lol..

project_mercy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pane93civhb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> lil people in the engine trying to get out. lol.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

*laugh*

I had 2 D series engines in it previously, and it never clunked before. Maybe I picked up some JDM 'lil people'

project_mercy

Anyone ever zip-tie a microphone into their engine bay and go for a ride?

.. It sounds like a good idea anyway. What could go wrong?

SPORT INJECTION

sounds like you need an engine bay midget.
good luck.. and congrats on the swap

project_mercy

Nobody has any ideas here? Help a brutha out.


After reading around and nudging from engine midgit, I'm going to swap the Mobil 1 out for Honda MTF. I'll probably run some 10w30 temporarily to flush it out some. Maybe I'll pick an autozone passenger side axle, since I'll have the oil out. See how that goes.





Modified by project_mercy at 6:51 PM 9/13/2004

project_mercy

So I loosened the axle nut, jacked the car up, and tried shaking the wheel at 6/12 and 9/3 with both and in/out motion and a back/forth motion (with the exception of back/forth at 9/3, as that would just turn the tire) and didn't notice any play.

I've noticed the clicking is growing worse (or maybe I'm just more sensitive now) as I've been driving it. It was actually clicking during just driving. When driving, it sounds a lot like a baseball card in the spokes of your bicycle, cept with metal.

Went into the Honda dealership to pick up MTF, and chatted with the parts guy, his suggestion was wheel bearing also, so I bought one, but I haven't gotten around to pressing it out, as it just doesn't seem like that's it.

Anyway, still looking for suggestions.

project_mercy

I really like pie.

And that RWD Del Sol is cool as hell, irrelivent of how it does or does not handle.

project_mercy

I had some cheesecake last night. I think that's pie. It's in a pie shell. But it's cake? The confusion.

ABK

see if your balljoints are tight (or if they are fucked up). Check if the intermidiate shaft is bolted down good. Check the tie rods. Did you tighten your wheel good? Bad wheel bearing? Didn't tigten the mounts all the way.

project_mercy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see if your balljoints are tight (or if they are fucked up). Check if the intermidiate shaft is bolted down good. Check the tie rods. Did you tighten your wheel good? Bad wheel bearing? Didn't tigten the mounts all the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yay, thanks for at least replying with something helpful

I replaced the ball joints with OEM ones during the install, they 'seem' tight.

I know the intermediate shaft bolts are torqued down correctly, but I'm going to pull it (whenever I get my knuckle back) and check for damage or binding or anything.

The wheel was definetly tight. The axle nuts were torqued down to 181 Nm, and the lug nuts were on "good 'n' tight"

I tried the "shake" test on the wheel. Tried 6/12 to test the wheel bearing, and 3/9 to test the tie rod end. That said, the knuckle's at the shop right now (hopefully) getting a new bearing put in. I don't think it needs it, but I bought the stupid thing, so I might as well make the most of it.

I also tried testing the CV joints for any slack or binding, couldn't feel any.

I'm going to play "swap the mounts", check the torque and see how that goes.

project_mercy

Answer was:

Driver's side inboard CV Joint == blatto. Boots and such are fine, no play if you try to twist the axle, but it binds & clunks like a **** if you actually spin the joint around (even by hand)