civic si 1993 doesnt start
07-23-2016, 01:23 AM
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civic si 1993 doesnt start
civic si 1993 , when the car is cold , it doesn't start normally (if starts it stalls for seconds and goes off )--- it only starts by
1- turning ignition on till engine lamp goes off
2- waiting about one hour (while ignition on) , then it starts normally
When the car warms up - it becomes normal
1- turning ignition on till engine lamp goes off
2- waiting about one hour (while ignition on) , then it starts normally
When the car warms up - it becomes normal
Last edited by Teeta Heeda; 07-23-2016 at 02:22 AM.
07-27-2016, 01:52 PM
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Re: civic si 1993 doesnt start
thanks , yes , I think may be some bad capacitors on the Ecu taking some time to charge , I will get it out and see
But , couldn't be any sensor affecting the Ecu , specially the temperature sensor (as it takes less delay time at hot temp.) or may be the Eacv
But , couldn't be any sensor affecting the Ecu , specially the temperature sensor (as it takes less delay time at hot temp.) or may be the Eacv
07-27-2016, 04:18 PM
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Re: civic si 1993 doesnt start
Those sensors wouldn't cause a no-start and caps n that small bad or not don't take an hour to charge, again Ron may be right (usually is). Try and find a spare, swap it in. If it still happens at least you've knocked one thing off the list.
It could also be a fuel delivery related issue.
It could also be a fuel delivery related issue.
03-28-2017, 02:44 PM
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Re: civic si 1993 doesnt start
The problem is finally solved after 8 month - thank you Ron (former user ) & Forbiddenera and also zerotohundred site
- For the (Check engine light ) that goes off after 1 hour -- it was the ecu (some bad caps - I will post down some helping tips for repairing all Honda ecu's )
- For the engine stalling - it was very flooded due to cranking with a weak battery that cant start , and I am still testing it
Some helping tips for repairing Honda Ecu's - very important for intermittent problems or weather (hot or cold) ecu failure
1- of course , visual inspection of any burned component or overheated area , or broken traces
2- checking the polar electrolytic capacitors ( cylindrical shape) , for any leaking , any deformation , any bulging tops or bottoms , broken legs (may look fine but will break if you just bend it) , it is better to change all capacitors (may be 5 to 7 caps) to prevent future problems
3- the most important thing is that the board is coated with some brown greasy substance with a bad sea food smell (not capacitors leaking as some fellows think) , which may cause improper repair , or it may be the main cause of the problem as it melts with the solder in the overheated areas and causes improper resistance or may be open circuit , so wherever you are changing or re-soldering any component , you must follow that procedure
a) acknowledge that the board is double layered , and components are either connected to one layer or to both layers , but most soldering is done or sucked at the bottom layer even if the leg is only connected to the top layer(like some cap legs)... also there are some pins that looks not connected to any components but these pins may be a connection between the 2 layers
b) clean the board (around the working area) with degreasing spray , alcohol , and leave it till it evaporates ,you can use a smooth brush
c) remove the old solder completely , assure no remaining solder is left on the top layer ,then remove the component (cap) if you will
d) clean the board again with degreasing spray , alcohol , and leave it till it evaporates
e) apply new clean solder
f) if you smell the sea food smell while soldering , repeat the above steps to guarantee clean soldering (try not to overheat the board or components)
g) make sure that all polar capacitors negative legs are all connected to ground of the top layer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this procedure is important as it happens to me , where I repaired the ecu and works fine ,then I soldered one leg of a resistor near the big cap , which makes the ecu goes bad again , until I removed the solder completely and cleaned and re-soldered , so it seems that 99% of the honda ecu problems are bad capacitors and bad solder ,except the cases where water goes into the ecu and fries some components
- For the (Check engine light ) that goes off after 1 hour -- it was the ecu (some bad caps - I will post down some helping tips for repairing all Honda ecu's )
- For the engine stalling - it was very flooded due to cranking with a weak battery that cant start , and I am still testing it
Some helping tips for repairing Honda Ecu's - very important for intermittent problems or weather (hot or cold) ecu failure
1- of course , visual inspection of any burned component or overheated area , or broken traces
2- checking the polar electrolytic capacitors ( cylindrical shape) , for any leaking , any deformation , any bulging tops or bottoms , broken legs (may look fine but will break if you just bend it) , it is better to change all capacitors (may be 5 to 7 caps) to prevent future problems
3- the most important thing is that the board is coated with some brown greasy substance with a bad sea food smell (not capacitors leaking as some fellows think) , which may cause improper repair , or it may be the main cause of the problem as it melts with the solder in the overheated areas and causes improper resistance or may be open circuit , so wherever you are changing or re-soldering any component , you must follow that procedure
a) acknowledge that the board is double layered , and components are either connected to one layer or to both layers , but most soldering is done or sucked at the bottom layer even if the leg is only connected to the top layer(like some cap legs)... also there are some pins that looks not connected to any components but these pins may be a connection between the 2 layers
b) clean the board (around the working area) with degreasing spray , alcohol , and leave it till it evaporates ,you can use a smooth brush
c) remove the old solder completely , assure no remaining solder is left on the top layer ,then remove the component (cap) if you will
d) clean the board again with degreasing spray , alcohol , and leave it till it evaporates
e) apply new clean solder
f) if you smell the sea food smell while soldering , repeat the above steps to guarantee clean soldering (try not to overheat the board or components)
g) make sure that all polar capacitors negative legs are all connected to ground of the top layer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this procedure is important as it happens to me , where I repaired the ecu and works fine ,then I soldered one leg of a resistor near the big cap , which makes the ecu goes bad again , until I removed the solder completely and cleaned and re-soldered , so it seems that 99% of the honda ecu problems are bad capacitors and bad solder ,except the cases where water goes into the ecu and fries some components
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