gs_rbaby

So I have checked all wiring and replaced the relays to trouble shoot the problem of why my A/C compressor isn't engaging or clicking on. Freon is in the system and the pressure holds well.(40 PSI for low side and 245PSI for high side) I have to jump it in order for it to engage so I know that it works still. Is there something else that I missed?

Former User

What year?

gs_rbaby

93 but, has a 95 a/c unit installed. Complete system with the sub harness with the 3 wires(r-134) vs the 2 wires(r-12).

gs_rbaby

Fawk!!! I bypassed the compressor clutch with a switch and everything was going fine; I had cold A/C going for a good 20mins then took it for a test drive. Pulled over a local auto parts store to get a pcv valve and the car sputtered then died!? WTF right? So I cranked it back up, turned the A/C off then back on and everything seemed ok. Drove it and it died instantly while I was in motion. I turned of off till I got home....10mins later, got home turned car on to test it again....put the fan speed to 3 with A/C on then 2-3mins later, my car made a noise and freon started to come out and fogged my car up! I opened the hood and freon(green stuff) was dripping from my compressor. The compressor still works when I engage it, but, what does this mean now? Dammit all.....

civic_driver

I'm not sure how the A/C system works but I think the ECU engages and disengages the compressor clutch constantly and doesn't keep it on for extended periods of time. I think this is the reason why this happened. Probably the compressor created too much pressure for the system to handle and it started leaking. Just a thought.

gs_rbaby

Hmmm, you could definitley be right. Damn. So the leak might be coming from my compressor cause that's where it was dripping from...the drain plug maybe?

gs_rbaby

Could a bad ecu cause the compressor to not engage guys? Like I mentioned above, I checked all wires, relays and fuses and can't find the problem.

Ran4it2

ecu has nothing to do with a/c
what controls compressor clutch are pressure switches
when u jumped the clutch you bypassed pressure switches
so the pressure got too high and blew some o ring
i think you need to fix whatever you blew probably an in/outlet o ring
and check the system for blockages see if your condensor is not blocked with dirt
see if fans come on and everything is working properly before replacing the switch
check for (i forgot the word but)conductivity in the switch
something like that
most likely a pressure switch
and if the clutch doesnt come on the pressures should equalize

Former User

Actually, a bad ECU could prevent the compressor clutch from engaging:

gs_rbaby

So how do u replace the pressure switch if it's bad?

I'm going to see if I can borrow one of my buddys ecu to determine if I have a faulty one. Or is there a way I can test it?

Former User

By jumping the compressor, the refrigerant pressure was allowed to build up to high levels unchecked. Hopefully, the compressor wasn't destroyed by this event.

In addition, regarding your original low and high side pressures, the low side was a bit high:



Here's how to troubleshoot the original compressor problem:

Ran4it2

the ecu is the last of his problems
its a pressure switch
the reason why the low side is probably high was b.c there is probably too much refrigerant in the system
so i suggest replacing the switch and see if it fixes the problem
if not then its most likley something with the wiring
check voltage at switches from harness

Khoald

see above sounds like a bad switch and yeah the switches cycle the A/C to avoid extreme pressures but if one is reading incorrectly it will not allow the compressor to engage

gs_rbaby

how do I check the switch or even replacing it?

Former User

What was damaged when refrigerant exploded from the compressor? Has this been fixed yet?

When all is in order, don't guess what the problem may be. Follow the steps in the diagrams to troubleshoot.

gs_rbaby

I'm not sure if anything was damaged. When I noticed the freon being pressured out, I immediately opened the hood while it was still coming out and noticed that it was dripping freon from wear the drain plug is at from the a/c compressor itself. So maybe the 0-ring from the drain plug is damaged and will have to be replaced. I turned on the compressor and engaged the clutch to to be sure that it was still working and it was. Nothing else seems to have been damaged. The pressure from the compressor just left a mist and wet like deposits onto the engine block where the compressor sits and no other signs of damage anywhere else.
I'll be sure to follow the diagram you have provided, thanks a bunch for the help guys.

Edit**If I open the drain plug, will that allow moisture into the system and will I have to replace the receiver/dryer again?

gs_rbaby

Ok, so I just came back from diagnosing the problems with the diagram and still can't find the problem. Although, I haven't been able to get a hold of a ecu yet, so my answer for now is undetermined. Everything came out positive and all held voltage continuity. So the next step is to get a ecu and go from there and see if that will get the compressor back to life again.

Edit**I didn't say this from the beginning but, my car is a 93 CX w/ a D16Z6 swap, and did not come with A/C at all, so I put a 95 Civic A/C unit in(Compressor, condenser, a/c lines, dryer and evaporator w/ sub harness).
Plus I may think that the condenser maybe at fault here as to why there was so much pressure built up. Maybe clogged cause I never flushed it from the beginning....

gs_rbaby

Bump guys.

gs_rbaby

You guys think I should look into getting a new condenser or should I just flush it and go that route instead?

Ran4it2

its the switch change it
theres a scradier valve so all you gotta do is change it and no refrigerant will come out
the stuff you saw is oil from the system
you didnt see any refrigerant only dye and oil
so you might have to inject oil

gs_rbaby

Ok. Is that the pressure switch you're referring to? And how would I go about adding or injecting the oil in?


Edit***By fixing the dual pressure switch and IF this is the problem, will this help my compressor engage?

gs_rbaby

bump!!

kronicus

i may be out in left field here but i had a issiue kind of like this on my teggy
when your compresor shot out freon all over the place thats the dump valve opening because pressure on the high side is going way to high
happened to me ended up being 2 factors
one was the expansion valve not functioning properly
after that was cleared up still had the same problem would load r-12 and bam it would dump it.
ended up being the condensor fan not kicking on and the high side was to hot.
in the mist of this i was fighting a bad high side sensor and low side cut switch, i got so pissed of and wasted so much freon i gave and did this and have been freezing my *** of scence.....
got 2 relays i had lying around, ran one to the fan for the condensor one to the clutch for the compressor
ran 10a to clutch 15a to the fan. on the control side of the relays ran 5a to a switch in the cab, which i later migrated into the oem ac switch
it gets f-ing cold in here ive got it down to 17 degreesFso far on the highway a good 40 mile trip.
let me know if you want to try this i can get you a schematic it takes maybe half an hour to build it.....

gs_rbaby

I wouldn't mind. Anything that can help and make my car cold!

kronicus

i take it you understand how a relay works, can wire a car stero and know your way around a volt meter$10.99 autozone......

last question when you said you bypassed the compresor you said everything was working good like cold good or COLD good?

do you have a analog thermomitor-$2.99 autozone

last i need you to go bypas the compresor with the car already fully warmed up and when that compresor kicks on is the condensor fan coming on within about 60 seconds of the compresor clutch engaging

last shut her down and off and let her sit for about 5 minuts and read the pressure on the low and high side, after doing that you will have given me everything i need to know to know if it will work or not.........

is your system r-12 or 134a


im going to start working on the schematic......

*edit
ok your car is a 93 which is a toss up on r-12 to 134a your ac system is 95 which is 134a as you said "dit**I didn't say this from the beginning but, my car is a 93 CX w/ a D16Z6 swap, and did not come with A/C at all, so I put a 95 Civic A/C unit"
what type of refrig is in there and please dont tell me its the polar bear artic chil with leak stop
as stated above you wont see freon it disapears as soon as it hits ambient air and goes directly to our ozone layer as to punch holes through it, anyway it was green? most uv dye is either green or purple, most ac flush is green
the part you put in did u take them fresh of a car and put them fresh on yours or did they sit in a dirty dusty muddy junk yard somewhere?

it already sounds to me like you are going to need a new expansion valve but we will find out soon enough
i know i threw alot of questions your way but do your best to answer each of them and i will do my best to help you in the most cost effictive way possible