pkek925

Hey guys I got a 00 Civic Si with a B18c (jspec GSR) swapped into it. The car has been acting up and bogging in power when it heats up to normal temp. The car feels like it instantaneously loses a large amount of power when the temp needle reaches half way.
I tried somethings to get it back to running again but no signs of relief. Anybody know what this could be? Im down on luck and I need this car to commute to school in about a month. Thanks

Things ive replaced

-Oil Pressure Switch
-Vtec Switch
-Oil
-Fuel Filter
-Checked Fuel Pump
-Spark Plug Wires
-Cleaned IAT

Have no idea what it can be but it may be associated with it always stalling out the first start up after filling up gas.

Also no CEL, no smoke out of exhaust and perfect idle even after the car warms up.

Thanks

Former User

You may want to check the throttle body, TP sensor, air cleaner, and intake air pipe.

pkek925

Would that explain why it only bogs when its warmed up?

Fatchance187

iTrader: (2)

spark plugs, maybe it's only noticable after it's warmed up

pkek925

I replaced my spark plugs then checked them after 100 miles. No signs of abnormal wear, corrosion, lubrication. It only happens when its warm and when it does you can feel the power loss as it feels as if it loses about 70 hp. It wont pick back up until i allow the car to cool and temp gauge to fall near cold. Yeah my iridiums shoudnt have gone out that quick but I replaced them anyways. Thanks

Former User

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pkek925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would that explain why it only bogs when its warmed up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The items that I listed can cause loss of power without a CEL. Heat causes expansion, so any of them also have the potential to be triggered by heating of the engine.

Coupe-R

Have found this prob on about 5 B series hondas now, every time it has been the knock sensor retarding HEAPS of timing even tho there is no knocl.

Stupid thing is, replacing the knock sensor doesn't fix it!

it won't throw a CEL, and nothing fixes it
APART FROM ONE THING

chipping the ecu and disabling it, afterwards the car never bogs and drives like a dream,.

I have never figured out why these cars do this, some do some don't. But you can tell a car that does it, big bog and the motor sounds odd from the massive timing retard.

either the wiring or something is causing it, cause its not the sensor or the ecu cause I have swapped both on all the cars that did it.

A list of cars that have this prob that I fixed through disabling the knock sensor
EG6 civic B16A2 stock
EG6 civic stock B16A2auto
EJ7 with B18CR swap
Delsol CRX Stock B16A2

all had the prob, not the ECU, not the sensor, and wiring seemed sound, no CEL codes. I have no idea what the hell is going on but it seems quite common

pkek925

Sounds like something I need to try. Id rather spend $ per hour to get it tuned as planned then spend almost the same $ per hour to get it diagnosed. Ill have to try it out. The fact that the car used to house a B16a (Civic 00 Si) and now doesnt want to run my B18c normally doesnt make sense to me. The motor ran perfectly in my EG when I had it.

1 question. would the knock sensor actually change or explain why it would only bog when the cars warmed up?

pkek925

Anybody have any other ideas? Does anyone know What sensors change or turn on when the car warms?

Mohsin

I have exactly the same problem! And i've replaced a lot of things, but the only other thing I haven't replaced is the dizzy (ive replaced the cap,rotor,arm but to no effect).

Also, Ill be installing a new set of plugs tomorrow. Ive got new leads also and a new o2 sensor.

Can I have have this removed with the VAFC also?

doeboi365

mine does the same too its just that the car sit there and idles at 1500rpms it seems like its losing power i just oder a new iacv valve cause that would take care of the idle problem. but it does seem like my car is losing power and its all stock too sooo i really dont know how fast it really is...lol if its fast at all yea its my 2000 em1 and its a b16 motor in it...

Mohsin

that sounds like a TPS / IAT issue. The OP and the rest of us have a perfect idle... So it's not the TB assembly or vacume issue.

pkek925

Sorry to hear that Mohsin and Doeboi.

Mohsin Actually im not familiar as to if VAFC can do that which im pretty sure it cant. (Unless the NEO has extra features). Plugs def may be the problem as they were the first thing I checked. The least you can do is by some cheap ones and run them for 100 miles or so then check them again.

Doeboi haha B16a is slow but in my case it would have been faster to fix the B16a that came with the shell. I swapped my B18c in there just so I could get to school and back. have you touched anything recently or taken it to a shop for work? the answer maybe in the work youve gotten recently.

Well Ive cheecked out my car and found out that I failed to move 1 wire that connects to my IAB sensor below the GSR IM. I doubt thats the prob but Im hoping like always that it is. I also cleaned out the sensors on the throttle body even though they were cleaned 400 miles ago during the swap. Ill keep everyone updated but any other ideas are appreciated as im sure itll still be running this way...=[

SinsEvil666

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doeboi365 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine does the same too its just that the car sit there and idles at 1500rpms it seems like its losing power i just oder a new iacv valve cause that would take care of the idle problem. but it does seem like my car is losing power and its all stock too sooo i really dont know how fast it really is...lol if its fast at all yea its my 2000 em1 and its a b16 motor in it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

U should of just cleaned it, saved u some bucks

Mohsin

its so annoying because its holding back the car big time! If it's not the plugs, then the next thing is the dizzy itself (coil / ignitor). Anymore input on this?

pkek925

Yeah It seems like you and me both have the same problem.

My symptoms : (Only when car warms up (temp needle in middle))

-Loss of power throughout all rpms (feels like about 50-75 hp difference)
-Drives perfectly fine during cold start (excellent throttle response, pickup, etc)
-No smoking from exhaust
-normal 700-800 idle rpm
-No noises no knocking no nothing to give a clue to as why it does this.
-No CEL


Yeah the IAB sensor was not the culprit. Actually the car seems to be getting worse and losing more power everytime. My guess is that its a sensor somewhere thats not throwing a CEL. I think that when we think of a item that may be the cause we overlook that the fact is , it wont act up when cold but only when warmed up. I believe its a sensor that interchanges between different settings when warm and cold.

Any ideas what sensors deal with temp?

Tried

-02 sensor checked (made no difference)
-IAB sensor checked and corrected (made no difference)
-IAT checked and cleaned (made no difference)
-MAP checked and cleaned (made no difference)
-Oil pressure sensor checked and replaced (made no difference)
-V-tec sol checked and replaced (made no difference)

Maybe its the thermostat? but then wouldnt it screw with the temp gauge too?

Any other sensors worth looking at (keeping in mind its relevance to heat and cold) ?

I hope we can find this out and when we do ill def post up an answer unlike most the other people who (out of joy of getting it fixed?) neglect to do so.

Mohsin

your missing the distributor. If that doesn't solve it then we will need to look at the Knock sensor option to be disabled via te ECU.

pkek925

Sorry I replaced the distributor with the B16a distributor after the swap because it was throwing a CYL code. It fixed it and just recently I swapped out the Coil (just to see). I could try replacing the whole thing but I thought the distributor was pretty much on point about throwing a CEL as soon as something is a mis.? Well ill do that tomorrow and see if it works out, I have 2 other ones to try with. In 4 weeks i should be leaving for vacation and if its not resolved by them i am gonna take it to the local performance shop to get it diagnosed and tuned. hopefully I dont have to because im waiting on some other parts. =]

99GreenEX

you said you "checked" your o2 sensor? wtf does that mean? Try find a replacement....

o2 sensors signal is not calculated until car is warmed up, then if it detects too much o2 it will increase the amount of fuel or if its too little decrease the amount of fuel.

99GreenEX

also it wont necisarrily throw a code..

pkek925

I took the 02 sensor off, reset the batt, drove till warm up. (Bogging still occurred).

Mohsin

Just to add me 2 cents, I have a brand new o2 sensor and it still bogs.

It will be interesting to see if the dizzy works pkek, try a whole one. It could be the IGNITOR (ICM Unit) inside the dizzy.

If that doesn't work then it looks like to pointing toward the Knock sensor issue.

doeboi365

do ya think its the knock senor is the reason my car seems slow or its jus sumthing small and stupid to find... like every other problem on a honda...

EJcoupeGSR

did you look at the timing marks on the cams because sometimes the belt can skip a tooth if your tensioner under the belt cover is starting to go

pkek925

Okay im about to go swap out distributors and then if that doesnt work replace my wires. (Only have about 20k miles on them) worth a shot though.

as for the knock sensor ive never heard of this before this thread and i dont know but it may be possible. just hard to believe my motor ran perfectly fine in the eg but 500 miles on the ek and this happens.. maybe its just bad luck?

I just remembered a difference from when it was in the eg (thanks to EJ). I actually had stock cams in the motor when it was in the eg but now in the ek i have it with aem cam gears (not tuned yet waiting for intake manifold and other items) could the timing really affect it only when its warm though? I figured that it would affect idle as well which my car is idling at a steady 750