tigerwing

hi everyone,

i have a project know is a civic 1994 ex ej1 with a lil d16y7 engine with a z6 admision, a d15b7 tranny, a unknown ECU, lil cheap intake, stock injectors, stock spark plugs and wires, stock headers, exhaust semi-stock with 2" pipe, wheels 17" paint white, tires 205/40/r17, stock brakes, stock suspension (lil damage) JDM headlights with HID system and yellow fogs, Short shifter with oem ****, White Cluster and cheap steering wheel. {if there anythink else i not mention please remind it}

What are the recomendation that you can provide to me?

Setup: JDM Turbo ej1... i want to begin slowly, im not in any hurry!... i want to do the thinks RIGHT!...

newtron63h

if it were me, i would start by putting a d16z6 engine, harness and tranny in(really simple swap.......and the Z6 is a much better platform to start with, also it has significantly more power so you will have a faster car even when you ARENT in boost. i also believe there are more performance parts available for the Z6 than the y7. from there:

forged pistons and rods, balanced bottom end, leave it somewhere around stock compression. put a mild cam in(should be fine with stock springs). either buy a turbo kit or piece one together so you will need turbo, exhast manifold, injectors, intercooler is a very good idea, piping for intercooler or straight to the IM, tuneable ECU, wider range MAP sensor, wideband o2 plus some other smaller parts here and there. also a heat shield to cover the turbo is another good idea. also about the intercooler.......the idea is that as you compress air it gets hotter(in a turbo setup 200 degrees isnt unreasonable).......and hotter air increases combustion temps which can lead to detonation(VERY BAD). so the intercooler cools that air back down..........and the general rule is that 10 degrees=1hp. so if your boosted intake air starts at 200 degrees and the intercooler gets intake air back down to 100, you just bought yourself 10hp(there are alot of variables in there but thats the general rule), and at the same time, you are making the engine use cooler air which is safer.

next step is a good solid tune by a properly trained tuner, without this you wont make all the power you potentially could, but more importantly the engine could EASILY destroy itself. but if done right you could be looking at anywhere between 160whp(low boost) to probably around 250whp(high boost). i think if it were me and i was doing such a minimal build......i probably wouldnt want more than about 200whp(220-230hp at the crank) to be safe. ive heard lots of ppl say they can handle 250hp at the crank just fine.......but i wouldnt want to push it and break something........which means repeating work.

now with all that extra power you will definitely want to upgrade drivetrain components:definitely your clutch, possibly axles too.

D Griff

The guy above sounds like he knows his $hit. I would go with something like that, then maybe some koni yellows, ground control coilovers, and sway bars. Replace those wheels with something that looks a little nicer and you'll have a great car.

You could also just build the Y7 if you don't want to spend $$$ on a Z6 (although they're pretty cheap). If you're running a smaller turbo that builds boost quickly they would probably feel similar. I've never had a turbo car though, so take this all for what it's worth.

tigerwing

Well, thanks newtron, but you are talking in general thinks...

where i can begin without change the engine for now ?(cuz here in panama z6 is difficult to find)...

i think i can buy things that i can use now and later!...

respect!

newtron63h

ahhhhh ok, didnt know you were in panama. well even without the z6, the same basics apply. forged pistons and rods, turbo kit, tune it, upgrade your clutch, and you should have a decently fast car. also i didnt mention suspension and brake upgrades because most ppl just ask how to get more power. but i would definitely upgrade both.......especially brakes............it only makes sense, you make the car GO faster.........it needs to WHOA faster.

tigerwing

haahha lets talk about suspension...

i see a brand of cambers and toe as "Wicked"... what is ur feedback for this kind of suspension?...

respect!

epic.fail

wouldnt worry about the camber kit..not really nessasary..the wicked toe kit isnt bad have one on my ej1 and dont have trouble with it. and also if you keep the y7 you should swap out the complete head for the vtec y8 head....or atleast replace the intake manifold if you still have the stock y7 one.

epic.fail

def get that thing lower tho....and different wheels

tigerwing

epic, read what i have on my car again!...

another recomendations?

newtron63h

apparently the OP likes his wheels so let it go.

tigerwing

is not like that... i wanna change my wheels but not now!...

im gonna buy this one... but later!... i told you, i wanna do the things RIGHT!, no in a hurry!...



more recomendations!?

newtron63h

recommendations for what? gotta be a little more specific man. engine? suspension? brakes? appearance?

tigerwing

ok lets talk again...

recomendations for all but like you say... d16z6 engine first... but i told u that engine is difficult to find in panama... ok lets talk about modifications that i can use now with my y7 and with the z6 engine if i change it... like intake, throttle, headers etc etc etc... suspension all!... but lets talk about brands why not, why yes?... thats thing!...

are u understand now bro?...

respect! :D

trojan

hi there guys! i got a D16Z6 on a civic eg. i would like to ask you about a slighty problem i have..when i do rev it on red..like about 7400rpm..the engine check light goes on..till i switch off the engine. whats that pls? i found that 7400rpm is the fuel cut..maybe it goes on coz it gets out of fuel?

thanks

newtron63h

DONT over-rev your engine. the Z6 redlines at 7200......why would you go beyond that? and the check engine like probably comes on because you are over-revving the engine.

speedooo

there's no point in swapping a d16z6 for a d16y7...too much work for 15whp. you'll feel a much bigger difference from swapping the trans for an ex/si unit.

As for an ecu, try an ls p75. I ran one with a d16y7 in my eg for years.

Sell those wheels, buy a set of rotas, buy better suspension and a lip.

newtron63h

well you can do the same basic build on a y7 as a Z6. so you dont NEED to worry about swapping a Z6 in your car.....its just a suggestion. yes alot of performance parts you can buy for a y7 will work on a Z6.

tigerwing

(For fun)
Here is how i begin!!!...

http://www.garage507.com/foro/viewtopic.php?t=21920
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well, where i can begin?...

with the tranny?... z6? y8? which one of all trannies?...

LS ecu is best than p28?...

Thanks everyone to interest on my post!

speedooo

p28 on a d16y7 will throw cel's for the vtec pressure switch and vtec solenoid.

d16z6/d16y8 transmissions have the same gearing

tigerwing

but i seeing that z6 is best for turbo and y8 is best for n/a....

is true?...

speedooo

no they're essentially the same motor...d16z6 has better oiling for the crank but thats not something to be concerned about with a stock motor.

tigerwing

uhm ok...

then i can swap in with anyone of those tranny... z6 or y8... ok i think that's gonna be the first thing i gonna do before i buy the radiator this monday!...

another thing... im thinking to paint my wheels until i can change it to a jdm style wheels... what paint did u recomend to me?... what color?... bronze, gold, flat black, etc... which one of all colors?...

respect!

chewyv

Paint the wheels bronze with blue lip. Gor for a z6 motor and y8 tranny then turbo if you want to stay single. But then again i know alot of people are selling b swaps for 1000-3000 so your looking at saving and waiting for b or slowing building with a d.

SchuittD16

z6 HEAD has better oiling for crank. and Z6 motor STOCK can handle 250hp, so i have read on this site. Im planning same shift on my car. I currently have a d16z6 and the better difference is that once you boost. you want to DEFINATELY get new ARP head bolts. More pressure in the head, so you want that bolted well. just in case, your pistons should be 75.5..

speedooo

lol you guys have no idea what you're talking about...

1. Why a d16z6 and a d16y8 trans? The stronger gear selector in the y8 trans is the only advantage...
2. WTF does the head have to do with the oiling of the crank?
3. Why should his pistons be 75.5mm?