Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like the wires split up and go ******* everywhere </TD></TR></TABLE>


hah, nah.

The WHT (white) is the charge wire (the thick wire).

The four wires go to the Fuse box (under hood), ECU, or igntion on source.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hah, nah.

The WHT (white) is the charge wire (the thick wire).

The four wires go to the Fuse box (under hood), ECU, or igntion on source.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, ok,
what I dont get about that white wire though, does it SEND a charge from the alt to the fusebox/batt,

or does it get a signal from the battery?

Cuz no matter when I check its volts, its always the same as the battery volts,
even with the car off and alt not working.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, ok,
what I dont get about that white wire though, does it SEND a charge from the alt to the fusebox/batt,

or does it get a signal from the battery?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It goes to the fuse box which the battery is connected too (fuse protected of course)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cuz no matter when I check its volts, its always the same as the battery volts,
even with the car off and alt not working.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sounds like an alt. it is just barely charging the battery.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It goes to the fuse box which the battery is connected too (fuse protected of course)

It sounds like an alt. it is just barely charging the battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>

heh, well i'm going to try and get another alt.
i know its going to do the same **** though.

the last alt was doing the same thing,
I pulled it, had it tested.. it tested good.
i tested the one I was going to replace it with.. also good.
put that one in.. still no charging.

MugenHonda

get a new alternator
if you have your car on and check the volts it should be 14 volts no questions asked
if it isn't it is a bad alternator, cuz at 12 you aren't charging anything especially the strain that is put on the battery that the alternator is suppose to relieve when the car is on for long periods of time

white ex

make sure the two wires that go into your fuse box are tight, i had the same problem went through like 3 alternators ( thinking they were bad ) and it turned out to be the loose wire that was causing my problems.

2lua

make sure the battery terminals tight, then check the voltage. if still no go then you can try this start the car and let it idle remove the negative battery terminal and see if the car will cut off or not. if yes then you found your alternator problem.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if still no go then you can try this start the car and let it idle remove the negative battery terminal and see if the car will cut off or not. if yes then you found your alternator problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This does not work on EFI cars.

Tad

I was told pulling the battery cables can do damage.
I did it once the other week, on the last alt, and the car kept running.

turbogixxer, is my car an EFI car??

i've checked the cables,
you dont swap out 4 different batteries and 2 alternators,
go over all the fuses and connections then go "Oh duh, it was a loose cable"

i've tightened the cables multiple times.

sorry 4 the tone,
just this whole thing is really eating away at me.

i'll try and get ANOTHER alternator

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turbogixxer, is my car an EFI car?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, Electronic Fuel Injection.

The reason why: Your ECU relays on battery voltage/ground to work right. When you open the circuit (remove the neg. battery terminal), take away that closed circuit that you need. It may run, it may not. But, it will not tell you if you alt is charging or not.

That trick works on carb cars.

B_CRUZ!

I have tackled this before and found out that the power wire was grounding itself on the alt housing.... brb for pics.




http://honda.hybrids.jp/forum/...&vc=1


for what I did.... this was on my beater 91 integra RS BTW

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b cruz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have tackled this before and found out that the power wire was grounding itself on the alt housing.... brb for pics.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

aah just checked,
wire looks good at both ends.

now there could be something funky going on along the way though.
I've got a cut one from the d15b harness
I think I might make another wire and wire it direct.
see if that helps.

aside from that,
my other options are new wiring harness, and new alt.
I guess I should try an alt first.

civtegra_hybrid

it's your ground, make sure all you ground wires are grounding, but I know for a fact that if the one on the trans, in not tight, it will not charge your batt. (due to, It don't have no f ing ground, check it.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civtegra_hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's your ground, make sure all you ground wires are grounding, but I know for a fact that if the one on the trans, in not tight, it will not charge your batt. (due to, It don't have no f ing ground, check it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i'll check.

****, i'll just take off all my grounds, file down their mounting surface and putem back on.

EE_Chris

If you have a meter....

Honda Charging System Overview and Diagnosis

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a meter....

Honda Charging System Overview and Diagnosis</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks i'm going to read through the whole thing!

nocturnaldragon

hey i forgot to tell you, pull fuse #41 the 80 amp one when checking the system on the alternator end. If you dont youll be reading the voltage from the battery if the alternator isent working. So youll be getting voltage when you shouldent be if a wire is bad or something with the alternator. You said you had it checked at autosone. Your proplem is in the wiring somewhere be paitent and check all your connections. Pull your fuse and run a continunity test with your muiltimeter and check for resistance in all your wires. If you see one that higher or not making a connection thats propably your proplem. Check the wires going to your dash as well (Just check them under the hood at a service conector) if you have them. I trouble shooted a 96 Couger once at work for 3 hrs with my meter and found out the idiot cut a wire behind his instrument cluster for the batery gauge and that was his proplem not the alternator like he swore it had to of been! so after wasting 3 hrs i figured it out and fixed it in 20 minutes. You need to take a step back and assume the battery is good (New and is aparently powering the car now) and your alternator is good (had it tested a few places i assume) so that would leave a wiring issue or possibly a bad bulb from the looks of that diagram. i know it sounds dumb by try checking your bulb like the couger the system depended on the gauge in the dash to work correctly so maybe the bulb is nessisary too.

Good luck!

Tad

how do I check for continuity/resistance?
i've got a multimeter but I prettymuch only know how to check for voltage..

senpai

Well, if the alternator is not working correctly, then the battery light would come on and the car wouldn't go far for very long, right?

I'm having charging issues now too.

EE_Chris

Continuity is simply checking for that - a continuous, unbroken piece of wire or connection.

Some meters have a buzzer to let you know continuity is there - well typically this buzzer sounds with anything less than 300 ohms. Yep, you could take a 300 ohm resistor, put it across the meter leads, and the buzzer would sound (assuming your meter actually has this setting).

But lets just skip that noise - just use the ohm scale. A continuity measurement would read close to 0 ohms.

Also, when using the ohm scale on the meter, make sure that the circuit under test does NOT have power applied to it - disconnecting the (-) battery cable is a good place to start.

Sometimes you'll see "Check for continuity to ground" - so you place one lead on the wire in question then place the other lead on a ground spot - does the meter display a resistance value? If not, you do not have continuity to ground.

Make sense?

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Continuity is simply checking for that - a continuous, unbroken piece of wire or connection.

Some meters have a buzzer to let you know continuity is there - well typically this buzzer sounds with anything less than 300 ohms. Yep, you could take a 300 ohm resistor, put it across the meter leads, and the buzzer would sound (assuming your meter actually has this setting).

But lets just skip that noise - just use the ohm scale. A continuity measurement would read close to 0 ohms.

Also, when using the ohm scale on the meter, make sure that the circuit under test does NOT have power applied to it - disconnecting the (-) battery cable is a good place to start.

Sometimes you'll see "Check for continuity to ground" - so you place one lead on the wire in question then place the other lead on a ground spot - does the meter display a resistance value? If not, you do not have continuity to ground.

Make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok I think i've got it, or at least i'm getting it.
so say i'm trying to check continuity on that alt power wire(the thick white one that goes from the alt to the fusebox).
I'm trying to make sure that it is one continuous unbroken piece of wire from one end to the other.

so I have to find a way to connect my multimeter leads to the start and end of the wire at the same time and read the ohms it gives off?

oh and continuity to ground, your looking for an ohms reading also?

(ok as you can tell i'm an electro noob)


Modified by Tad at 12:26 PM 7/26/2004

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, if the alternator is not working correctly, then the battery light would come on and the car wouldn't go far for very long, right?

I'm having charging issues now too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well my batt light doesnt come on even though I have these problems.

senpai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well my batt light doesnt come on even though I have these problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, that's what I'm saying. It has to been wiring, I hope. I don't feel like replacing the alternator.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, that's what I'm saying. It has to been wiring, I hope. I don't feel like replacing the alternator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, Battery light is a weak way to say that it is the wiring. I would NEVER go by if the light is on or off.

senpai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, Battery light is a weak way to say that it is the wiring. I would NEVER go by if the light is on or off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't say the battery light means wiring.

I said, or meant, if the battery light is NOT on, then it must be wiring (assuming battery light works.)

I know my battery lighte works due to a mishap with an alternator belt