Charging Optima Battery
03-13-2008, 09:16 PM
#1
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Charging Optima Battery
Could anyone give me some advice on how to properly charge an Optima Red Top battery? Mine has a low charge and I'd like to recharge it.
EDIT:
If anyone else could help, I'm still having light dimming issues when I brake after long drives.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2238654
TIA
Modified by NOFX at 9:17 PM 3/24/2008
EDIT:
If anyone else could help, I'm still having light dimming issues when I brake after long drives.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2238654
TIA
Modified by NOFX at 9:17 PM 3/24/2008
03-13-2008, 09:49 PM
#3
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Do you think my stock alternator might not be enough to keep this one charged up? I have a '98 EX coupe. I believe the stock alternator (which i have) is something like a 75 amp alternator.
I was thinking it'd be best to trickle charge it, but I wanted to confirm.
I've been thinking I might just buy a charger (like a 2 / 5 / 10 or whatever the lowest I could get would be) and do it at home.
Mine is the 75/25 and tests as a good battery, but with a low charge. So hopefully it won't take forever. I only picked it up 02-16-06.
I wanted to get this done the other day, but my boss wouldn't contact me back to confirm how he wants it charged and I was on the clock (I work at Autozone). I'd rather another employee do it so that in the even anything happens, there is no question that it should be replaced by Autozone. If I were to charge it at the store myself, then if something happened to the battery it could be pinned on me.
Here's some info I got on charging one. I figure this might help someone else who has lost their information that was sold with the battery.
Charging:
For maximum battery life, the following charging methods are recommended: (Always use a voltage regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.)
Models: D34/78, D75/25, D34, D35, D51, D51R, D31T, D31A, 34M, D34M, D31M, 34/78, 75/25, 25, 34, 34R, 35, 6V
Recommended charging information:
Battery charger:
- 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps.
Float charge:
- 13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current.
Rapid Recharge: (Constant Voltage charger)
- Maximum voltage 15.6 volts.
- No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125 F.
- Charge until current drops below 1 amp.
- Recharge time: (example assuming 100% discharge or 10.5 volts)
I was thinking it'd be best to trickle charge it, but I wanted to confirm.
I've been thinking I might just buy a charger (like a 2 / 5 / 10 or whatever the lowest I could get would be) and do it at home.
Mine is the 75/25 and tests as a good battery, but with a low charge. So hopefully it won't take forever. I only picked it up 02-16-06.
I wanted to get this done the other day, but my boss wouldn't contact me back to confirm how he wants it charged and I was on the clock (I work at Autozone). I'd rather another employee do it so that in the even anything happens, there is no question that it should be replaced by Autozone. If I were to charge it at the store myself, then if something happened to the battery it could be pinned on me.
Here's some info I got on charging one. I figure this might help someone else who has lost their information that was sold with the battery.
Charging:
For maximum battery life, the following charging methods are recommended: (Always use a voltage regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.)
Models: D34/78, D75/25, D34, D35, D51, D51R, D31T, D31A, 34M, D34M, D31M, 34/78, 75/25, 25, 34, 34R, 35, 6V
Recommended charging information:
Battery charger:
- 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps.
Float charge:
- 13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current.
Rapid Recharge: (Constant Voltage charger)
- Maximum voltage 15.6 volts.
- No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125 F.
- Charge until current drops below 1 amp.
- Recharge time: (example assuming 100% discharge or 10.5 volts)
03-14-2008, 12:05 PM
#5
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Re: (s13hero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13hero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a yellow top and mines died, and I just put it on a trickle charger, good as new 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks for the help.
03-14-2008, 12:39 PM
#7
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Re: (DiS_SiK_TeGgY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DiS_SiK_TeGgY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats happening the battery wont keep charge even after driving for a while
Modified by DiS_SiK_TeGgY at 4:17 PM 3/14/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
I purchased this battery 02-17-06 (just checked again).
I installed it in the car immediately.
It has been there since and has run fine.
Over the past six months or so, perhaps less, I've begun to notice occasionally my headlights dim when I brake, operate the power windows, etc.
So I did an alternator and battery test the other day. The alternator tested good (14.05 volts and 55.88 peak amps), but the battery came back as "good, low charge".
My car is fairly stock electrically. Foglights (wired as OEM), a stock radio, a clock wired in, etc. No parasitic drain.
The battery shouldn't have a low charge.
I'm thinking that the stock alternator (which I believe is a 75 amp alternator stock) might not be enough.
Modified by DiS_SiK_TeGgY at 4:17 PM 3/14/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
I purchased this battery 02-17-06 (just checked again).
I installed it in the car immediately.
It has been there since and has run fine.
Over the past six months or so, perhaps less, I've begun to notice occasionally my headlights dim when I brake, operate the power windows, etc.
So I did an alternator and battery test the other day. The alternator tested good (14.05 volts and 55.88 peak amps), but the battery came back as "good, low charge".
My car is fairly stock electrically. Foglights (wired as OEM), a stock radio, a clock wired in, etc. No parasitic drain.
The battery shouldn't have a low charge.
I'm thinking that the stock alternator (which I believe is a 75 amp alternator stock) might not be enough.
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03-14-2008, 12:46 PM
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Re: (NOFX)
u can up grade the alternator to 120 the most i seen but i was having the same problem i drive my teggy at a high rpm for like a day and it boosted the battery back up.
03-14-2008, 12:57 PM
#9
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Re: (DiS_SiK_TeGgY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DiS_SiK_TeGgY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can up grade the alternator to 120 the most i seen but i was having the same problem i drive my teggy at a high rpm for like a day and it boosted the battery back up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've looked for Civic alternators for sale, but they're all 75 amp. I'd be interested in seeing if the 1.6EL might be the same, or if another Honda alternator would bolt up like stock, but no luck. Then again, I've thought about a swap, and I'm not sure which alternator might come with those engines.
Charging a regular battery by driving can take up to eight hours. I usually just drive to and from work. About thirty miles total each day.
I've looked for Civic alternators for sale, but they're all 75 amp. I'd be interested in seeing if the 1.6EL might be the same, or if another Honda alternator would bolt up like stock, but no luck. Then again, I've thought about a swap, and I'm not sure which alternator might come with those engines.
Charging a regular battery by driving can take up to eight hours. I usually just drive to and from work. About thirty miles total each day.
03-14-2008, 01:27 PM
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stock alternators are 75amp, aftermarket ones (designed for stereos) can be upwards of 250amps.
Also keep in mind that those specs for the battery are from dead to full charge. You're battery should never be totally dead when sitting in your car and it doesn't have to be at full charge to start the car either.
I've have had a redtop for >9 years. zero problems even with the 75amp honda alternator.
As of this year the car now sits, once a month I start it and let it idle for 30 minutes. Still zero problems keeping a charge. (alarm armed all the time)
I'd be checking your battery connections, ground wires, alternator (one winding can be bad and not show up as bad on the car, autozone type checks will show it) and the alternator wire from the alternator to the fusebox.
**edit** keep in mind that a battery's charge cycle is not linear, it's at ~80% at less then 50% of the time. ~50% at 25% of the time. Starting the car then driving for 15 minutes is more than enough to keep the battery charged. Generally speaking, if your car hits operating temp, the battery will be fine.
Also keep in mind that those specs for the battery are from dead to full charge. You're battery should never be totally dead when sitting in your car and it doesn't have to be at full charge to start the car either.
I've have had a redtop for >9 years. zero problems even with the 75amp honda alternator.
As of this year the car now sits, once a month I start it and let it idle for 30 minutes. Still zero problems keeping a charge. (alarm armed all the time)
I'd be checking your battery connections, ground wires, alternator (one winding can be bad and not show up as bad on the car, autozone type checks will show it) and the alternator wire from the alternator to the fusebox.
**edit** keep in mind that a battery's charge cycle is not linear, it's at ~80% at less then 50% of the time. ~50% at 25% of the time. Starting the car then driving for 15 minutes is more than enough to keep the battery charged. Generally speaking, if your car hits operating temp, the battery will be fine.
03-14-2008, 02:42 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock alternators are 75amp, aftermarket ones (designed for stereos) can be upwards of 250amps.
Also keep in mind that those specs for the battery are from dead to full charge. You're battery should never be totally dead when sitting in your car and it doesn't have to be at full charge to start the car either.
I've have had a redtop for >9 years. zero problems even with the 75amp honda alternator.
As of this year the car now sits, once a month I start it and let it idle for 30 minutes. Still zero problems keeping a charge. (alarm armed all the time)
I'd be checking your battery connections, ground wires, alternator (one winding can be bad and not show up as bad on the car, autozone type checks will show it) and the alternator wire from the alternator to the fusebox.
**edit** keep in mind that a battery's charge cycle is not linear, it's at ~80% at less then 50% of the time. ~50% at 25% of the time. Starting the car then driving for 15 minutes is more than enough to keep the battery charged. Generally speaking, if your car hits operating temp, the battery will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked the car at Autozone. Twice. Both times tested good.
I did an alternator ("charging system") and battery check.
Alternator:
Regulator Volts: 14.05
Peak Amps: 55.8
Diode pattern is good.
Battery:
Good, low charge.
Battery connections are tight. Grounds look good, but I haven't checked yet.
The car had probably been sitting for about three or four hours when I performed the tests. Te lights dimming only happens at the end of my night drive. I drive through town and then drive a good eight miles without usually having to even slow down. At the end of that drive, when I brake to make a turn, the lights dim (every time besides the last time I drove it here).
The cars hits operating temperatures in that time. I usually have the following on: headlights (and all associated lighting), foglights (Esuse OE replicas - wired like stock besides the interior switch harness), radio, heat, EDM clock (wired into radio harness).
The car is a '98 EX coupe, so it has all the options.
Also keep in mind that those specs for the battery are from dead to full charge. You're battery should never be totally dead when sitting in your car and it doesn't have to be at full charge to start the car either.
I've have had a redtop for >9 years. zero problems even with the 75amp honda alternator.
As of this year the car now sits, once a month I start it and let it idle for 30 minutes. Still zero problems keeping a charge. (alarm armed all the time)
I'd be checking your battery connections, ground wires, alternator (one winding can be bad and not show up as bad on the car, autozone type checks will show it) and the alternator wire from the alternator to the fusebox.
**edit** keep in mind that a battery's charge cycle is not linear, it's at ~80% at less then 50% of the time. ~50% at 25% of the time. Starting the car then driving for 15 minutes is more than enough to keep the battery charged. Generally speaking, if your car hits operating temp, the battery will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked the car at Autozone. Twice. Both times tested good.
I did an alternator ("charging system") and battery check.
Alternator:
Regulator Volts: 14.05
Peak Amps: 55.8
Diode pattern is good.
Battery:
Good, low charge.
Battery connections are tight. Grounds look good, but I haven't checked yet.
The car had probably been sitting for about three or four hours when I performed the tests. Te lights dimming only happens at the end of my night drive. I drive through town and then drive a good eight miles without usually having to even slow down. At the end of that drive, when I brake to make a turn, the lights dim (every time besides the last time I drove it here).
The cars hits operating temperatures in that time. I usually have the following on: headlights (and all associated lighting), foglights (Esuse OE replicas - wired like stock besides the interior switch harness), radio, heat, EDM clock (wired into radio harness).
The car is a '98 EX coupe, so it has all the options.
03-14-2008, 02:49 PM
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Re: (s13hero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13hero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a yellow top and mines died, and I just put it on a trickle charger, good as new </TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of trickle charger do you have?
</TD></TR></TABLE>What kind of trickle charger do you have?
03-14-2008, 02:57 PM
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Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I checked the car at Autozone. Twice. Both times tested good.
I did an alternator ("charging system") and battery check.
Alternator:
Regulator Volts: 14.05
Peak Amps: 55.8
Diode pattern is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>that's kind of low current reading, I seem to recall honda alternators reading in the 60-70 range. This points to a flakey winding.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Battery:
Good, low charge.
Battery connections are tight. Grounds look good, but I haven't checked yet.
The car had probably been sitting for about three or four hours when I performed the tests. Te lights dimming only happens at the end of my night drive. I drive through town and then drive a good eight miles without usually having to even slow down. At the end of that drive, when I brake to make a turn, the lights dim (every time besides the last time I drove it here).
The cars hits operating temperatures in that time. I usually have the following on: headlights (and all associated lighting), foglights (Esuse OE replicas - wired like stock besides the interior switch harness), radio, heat, EDM clock (wired into radio harness).
The car is a '98 EX coupe, so it has all the options.</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep in mind that a battery is only a storage device, your car is made with more than 2x the alternator capacity it needs, and you're exceeding it with very few additional items.
grounds & alt-to-fuse_box wire.
charge the battery, connect the load box and run through the cycle twice. Let the battery sit for a few minutes then check the voltage, it should not be less than 11.5V. If it is you may have a bad cell in the battery. (it happens some times, the warranty will cover this)
A bad cell will look to the tester as a low charge, but the good cells will keep the voltage up to make the battery test good.
**edit** just saw that you work at autozone, edited my post to use their tools.
I checked the car at Autozone. Twice. Both times tested good.
I did an alternator ("charging system") and battery check.
Alternator:
Regulator Volts: 14.05
Peak Amps: 55.8
Diode pattern is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>that's kind of low current reading, I seem to recall honda alternators reading in the 60-70 range. This points to a flakey winding.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Battery:
Good, low charge.
Battery connections are tight. Grounds look good, but I haven't checked yet.
The car had probably been sitting for about three or four hours when I performed the tests. Te lights dimming only happens at the end of my night drive. I drive through town and then drive a good eight miles without usually having to even slow down. At the end of that drive, when I brake to make a turn, the lights dim (every time besides the last time I drove it here).
The cars hits operating temperatures in that time. I usually have the following on: headlights (and all associated lighting), foglights (Esuse OE replicas - wired like stock besides the interior switch harness), radio, heat, EDM clock (wired into radio harness).
The car is a '98 EX coupe, so it has all the options.</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep in mind that a battery is only a storage device, your car is made with more than 2x the alternator capacity it needs, and you're exceeding it with very few additional items.
grounds & alt-to-fuse_box wire.
charge the battery, connect the load box and run through the cycle twice. Let the battery sit for a few minutes then check the voltage, it should not be less than 11.5V. If it is you may have a bad cell in the battery. (it happens some times, the warranty will cover this)
A bad cell will look to the tester as a low charge, but the good cells will keep the voltage up to make the battery test good.
**edit** just saw that you work at autozone, edited my post to use their tools.
03-14-2008, 03:00 PM
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Re: (NOFX)
Is it just me or does 55 amps sound very low for an alternator?
Is there maybe an alternator out of a different honda/acura you can use for higher amperage?
Is there maybe an alternator out of a different honda/acura you can use for higher amperage?
03-14-2008, 03:07 PM
#15
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Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's kind of low current reading, I seem to recall honda alternators reading in the 60-70 range. This points to a flakey winding. (I'm not a big fan of autozone alternators or distributors)</TD></TR></TABLE>
The alternator's stock and original to the car (unless it was replaced in the first five years of it's life before I owned it).
I thought it was a sort of low reading too... but it said it was good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep in mind that a battery is only a storage device, your car is made with more than 2x the alternator capacity it needs, and you're exceeding it with very few additional items.
grounds & alt-to-fuse_box wire.
also if you have one, use a trickle charger on the battery over night. Any POS will work.
leave it sit for 12-24 hours and test it with a volt meter. It should not be less than 12V. If it is you may have a bad cell in the battery. (it happens some times, the warranty will cover this)
A bad cell will look to the tester as a low charge, but the good cells will keep the voltage up to make the battery test good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have a trickle charger, but I was thinking of picking one up today. It wouldn't hurt to have one around.
I know the store has three more 75/25s in stock. I am a bit hesitant to turn it in just because I know one of the two managers will be getting a free battery off of me (I know, this is store theft). It's probably what I'll have to end up doing though. It's still within the 36 month free replacement period.
The alternator's stock and original to the car (unless it was replaced in the first five years of it's life before I owned it).
I thought it was a sort of low reading too... but it said it was good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep in mind that a battery is only a storage device, your car is made with more than 2x the alternator capacity it needs, and you're exceeding it with very few additional items.
grounds & alt-to-fuse_box wire.
also if you have one, use a trickle charger on the battery over night. Any POS will work.
leave it sit for 12-24 hours and test it with a volt meter. It should not be less than 12V. If it is you may have a bad cell in the battery. (it happens some times, the warranty will cover this)
A bad cell will look to the tester as a low charge, but the good cells will keep the voltage up to make the battery test good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have a trickle charger, but I was thinking of picking one up today. It wouldn't hurt to have one around.
I know the store has three more 75/25s in stock. I am a bit hesitant to turn it in just because I know one of the two managers will be getting a free battery off of me (I know, this is store theft). It's probably what I'll have to end up doing though. It's still within the 36 month free replacement period.
03-14-2008, 03:10 PM
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Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The alternator's stock and original to the car (unless it was replaced in the first five years of it's life before I owned it).
I thought it was a sort of low reading too... but it said it was good.
I don't have a trickle charger, but I was thinking of picking one up today. It wouldn't hurt to have one around.
I know the store has three more 75/25s in stock. I am a bit hesitant to turn it in just because I know one of the two managers will be getting a free battery off of me (I know, this is store theft). It's probably what I'll have to end up doing though. It's still within the 36 month free replacement period.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I snuck an edit in there on you.
autozones tools are designed to detect obvious problems. Little problems like this they will glance right over.
this is far from the first (or last) thing I've seen or heard of being liberated from autozone.
The alternator's stock and original to the car (unless it was replaced in the first five years of it's life before I owned it).
I thought it was a sort of low reading too... but it said it was good.
I don't have a trickle charger, but I was thinking of picking one up today. It wouldn't hurt to have one around.
I know the store has three more 75/25s in stock. I am a bit hesitant to turn it in just because I know one of the two managers will be getting a free battery off of me (I know, this is store theft). It's probably what I'll have to end up doing though. It's still within the 36 month free replacement period.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I snuck an edit in there on you.
autozones tools are designed to detect obvious problems. Little problems like this they will glance right over.
this is far from the first (or last) thing I've seen or heard of being liberated from autozone.
03-14-2008, 03:27 PM
#17
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Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I snuck an edit in there on you.
autozones tools are designed to detect obvious problems. Little problems like this they will glance right over.
this is far from the first (or last) thing I've seen or heard of being liberated from autozone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I'd prefer a coworker to charge the battery if I charge it there. That way there is no question that the store should cover it in the event anything were to happen.
I know things get stolen, and honestly... knowing the amount of crap we throw away, I don't mind too much. But a $160 battery that they got because of me... no thanks.
If it has a bad cell though... rofl... they can keep it.
If it has a bad cell, I'd like to find out asap so I can get this taken care of.
Do you know why I might have those readings on my alternator? Do you think it's lower than it should be? I've thought about upgrading, but don't know where I should get another alternator. The radio is just a stock Prelude radio (was Si, but I traded it). I don't do the whole audio setup thing, but with my intentions to put on more power options, it would not be a bad idea to upgrade.
I snuck an edit in there on you.
autozones tools are designed to detect obvious problems. Little problems like this they will glance right over.
this is far from the first (or last) thing I've seen or heard of being liberated from autozone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I'd prefer a coworker to charge the battery if I charge it there. That way there is no question that the store should cover it in the event anything were to happen.
I know things get stolen, and honestly... knowing the amount of crap we throw away, I don't mind too much. But a $160 battery that they got because of me... no thanks.
If it has a bad cell though... rofl... they can keep it.
If it has a bad cell, I'd like to find out asap so I can get this taken care of.
Do you know why I might have those readings on my alternator? Do you think it's lower than it should be? I've thought about upgrading, but don't know where I should get another alternator. The radio is just a stock Prelude radio (was Si, but I traded it). I don't do the whole audio setup thing, but with my intentions to put on more power options, it would not be a bad idea to upgrade.
03-14-2008, 06:34 PM
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honestly there is no point to upgrading he alternator unless you're talking electric power for an air compressor for air ride or something like that.
Simple additions (any factory options are factored in by honda's design)
stereos pull less then 5 amps max, one to another is nothing to the alternator.
Even amps are not really that big a deal if you keep it below 750watts.
those readings from your alternator may simply be an indication that your alternator is a little on the weak side, or the tool is a little off. (they get taken care of well don't they)
Over the last few years, there has been several autozones that I've gone to, eventually I know pretty much everyone there. I've seen so much crap going on in everyone it's almost comical.
Of course I don't work there, and I'm sure every location is different. But I wouldn't even think twice about a $160 battery.
Simple additions (any factory options are factored in by honda's design)
stereos pull less then 5 amps max, one to another is nothing to the alternator.
Even amps are not really that big a deal if you keep it below 750watts.
those readings from your alternator may simply be an indication that your alternator is a little on the weak side, or the tool is a little off. (they get taken care of well don't they)
Over the last few years, there has been several autozones that I've gone to, eventually I know pretty much everyone there. I've seen so much crap going on in everyone it's almost comical.
Of course I don't work there, and I'm sure every location is different. But I wouldn't even think twice about a $160 battery.
03-14-2008, 08:15 PM
#19
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i also work at autozone. im a psm 
your altenator seems likes its on its way out. im to lazy to open the calculator, but the lowest amp your alt should ever put is 75% of what its rated at. if my maths correct (im doing it in my head) the mininum it should be putting out is 56.25.
your altenator seems likes its on its way out. im to lazy to open the calculator, but the lowest amp your alt should ever put is 75% of what its rated at. if my maths correct (im doing it in my head) the mininum it should be putting out is 56.25.
03-14-2008, 08:34 PM
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take it to A parts store and tell them to charge it. Not on CCA (cold cranking amps) but on the spiral cell battery option its like amg or something, i cant remember. Advance auto parts has the machine to do this. P.S. have a manager do this or some one that has good knowledge.
03-14-2008, 09:31 PM
#21
H-T White Ops
Thread Starter
Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly there is no point to upgrading he alternator unless you're talking electric power for an air compressor for air ride or something like that.
Simple additions (any factory options are factored in by honda's design)
stereos pull less then 5 amps max, one to another is nothing to the alternator.
Even amps are not really that big a deal if you keep it below 750watts.
those readings from your alternator may simply be an indication that your alternator is a little on the weak side, or the tool is a little off. (they get taken care of well don't they)
Over the last few years, there has been several autozones that I've gone to, eventually I know pretty much everyone there. I've seen so much crap going on in everyone it's almost comical.
Of course I don't work there, and I'm sure every location is different. But I wouldn't even think twice about a $160 battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah... things get taken care of soooo well there.
It goes out in the rain without a cover, unplugged all night long... I can only image what else has happened to it. It doesn't look good though.
At least it's not as bad as my friend who worked at one out east. He'd invite myself and my friends in while he closed (he was a manager) and if we saw somethign of interest, he'd tell us to just take it. I always refused though. Some jackass stole my washer fluid from the parking lot at that store. Guess I shoudln't have left it next to the car for five minutes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i also work at autozone. im a psm
your altenator seems likes its on its way out. im to lazy to open the calculator, but the lowest amp your alt should ever put is 75% of what its rated at. if my maths correct (im doing it in my head) the mininum it should be putting out is 56.25.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine is putting out 74.4% of 75 amps. 75% minimum would be 56.25 amps minimum.
Mine is only putting out .45 amp less than that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EkFG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
take it to A parts store and tell them to charge it. Not on CCA (cold cranking amps) but on the spiral cell battery option its like amg or something, i cant remember. Advance auto parts has the machine to do this. P.S. have a manager do this or some one that has good knowledge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no Advance Auto Parts out here. It's a primarily east coast and midwest company. I used to work for them out east.
We've been talking in here about putting it on a trickle charger. As long as a coworker puts it on, I shouldn't be held at fault at all for it getting messed up on the charger if I wasn't the one who put it on and better yet, not even on the clock. I wanted to talk to the store manager before I did anything so it'd be covered as much as possible.
Simple additions (any factory options are factored in by honda's design)
stereos pull less then 5 amps max, one to another is nothing to the alternator.
Even amps are not really that big a deal if you keep it below 750watts.
those readings from your alternator may simply be an indication that your alternator is a little on the weak side, or the tool is a little off. (they get taken care of well don't they)
Over the last few years, there has been several autozones that I've gone to, eventually I know pretty much everyone there. I've seen so much crap going on in everyone it's almost comical.
Of course I don't work there, and I'm sure every location is different. But I wouldn't even think twice about a $160 battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah... things get taken care of soooo well there.
It goes out in the rain without a cover, unplugged all night long... I can only image what else has happened to it. It doesn't look good though.
At least it's not as bad as my friend who worked at one out east. He'd invite myself and my friends in while he closed (he was a manager) and if we saw somethign of interest, he'd tell us to just take it. I always refused though. Some jackass stole my washer fluid from the parking lot at that store.
Guess I shoudln't have left it next to the car for five minutes.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i also work at autozone. im a psm
your altenator seems likes its on its way out. im to lazy to open the calculator, but the lowest amp your alt should ever put is 75% of what its rated at. if my maths correct (im doing it in my head) the mininum it should be putting out is 56.25.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine is putting out 74.4% of 75 amps. 75% minimum would be 56.25 amps minimum.
Mine is only putting out .45 amp less than that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EkFG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
take it to A parts store and tell them to charge it. Not on CCA (cold cranking amps) but on the spiral cell battery option its like amg or something, i cant remember. Advance auto parts has the machine to do this. P.S. have a manager do this or some one that has good knowledge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no Advance Auto Parts out here. It's a primarily east coast and midwest company. I used to work for them out east.
We've been talking in here about putting it on a trickle charger. As long as a coworker puts it on, I shouldn't be held at fault at all for it getting messed up on the charger if I wasn't the one who put it on and better yet, not even on the clock. I wanted to talk to the store manager before I did anything so it'd be covered as much as possible.
03-14-2008, 09:43 PM
#22
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plan of attack.
check all your grounds with a volt meter
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the best way to check [ground wires] is to use volts.
With the car running, switch on everything that you can that pulls power and read the voltage from the general grounding point you're testing to the battery's negative terminal.
This will tell you how much you're loosing. (<.5V and everything is great. >1V something is really wrong)
Locate the ground that should be servicing that connection and go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
charge battery, do a serious load test
replace the alternator
check all your grounds with a volt meter
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the best way to check [ground wires] is to use volts.
With the car running, switch on everything that you can that pulls power and read the voltage from the general grounding point you're testing to the battery's negative terminal.
This will tell you how much you're loosing. (<.5V and everything is great. >1V something is really wrong)
Locate the ground that should be servicing that connection and go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
charge battery, do a serious load test
replace the alternator
03-14-2008, 10:36 PM
#23
H-T White Ops
Thread Starter
Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plan of attack.
check all your grounds with a volt meter
charge battery, do a serious load test
replace the alternator</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm getting a '97 EX in the next month or two. Light front end damage (engine is fine). It's an auto.
Do you think I should just use that alternator? I'd rather stick with stock, not a remanned unit or aftermarket.
check all your grounds with a volt meter
charge battery, do a serious load test
replace the alternator</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm getting a '97 EX in the next month or two. Light front end damage (engine is fine). It's an auto.
Do you think I should just use that alternator? I'd rather stick with stock, not a remanned unit or aftermarket.
03-14-2008, 11:34 PM
#24
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yes you can use that altenator. and since yours is putting out just a little less than the minimum, thats why your battery is good on a low charge.
good luck with the charge. i scooped up my redtop for $20. a customer turned in a $160 battery for the core on a 19.99 used battery. so i charged it, turned it into a used bat and bought it.
optimas don't have acid in them like normal batteries. i don't see how it can pop or swell up, especially on a slow charger.
good luck with the charge. i scooped up my redtop for $20. a customer turned in a $160 battery for the core on a 19.99 used battery. so i charged it, turned it into a used bat and bought it.
optimas don't have acid in them like normal batteries. i don't see how it can pop or swell up, especially on a slow charger.
03-15-2008, 12:09 AM
#25
H-T White Ops
Thread Starter
Re: (x0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you can use that altenator. and since yours is putting out just a little less than the minimum, thats why your battery is good on a low charge.
good luck with the charge. i scooped up my redtop for $20. a customer turned in a $160 battery for the core on a 19.99 used battery. so i charged it, turned it into a used bat and bought it.
optimas don't have acid in them like normal batteries. i don't see how it can pop or swell up, especially on a slow charger. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a sealed lead acid battery. I've seen one (a yellow top) swell up about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch on top when put on a fast charger at Advance Auto Parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because of the open cells with liquid electrolyte in most lead-acid batteries, overcharging with excessive charging voltages will generate oxygen and hydrogen gas by electrolysis of water, forming an explosive mix. This should be avoided. Caution must also be observed because of the extremely corrosive nature of sulfuric acid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Recommended Charging Information:
Alternator: 13.3 to 15.0 volts; no amperage limit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.optimabatteries.com...4.pdf
Do you think my alternator still might be decent if I replace or recharge the battery or do you think the damage is done? I really don't want to swap the alternator.
good luck with the charge. i scooped up my redtop for $20. a customer turned in a $160 battery for the core on a 19.99 used battery. so i charged it, turned it into a used bat and bought it.
optimas don't have acid in them like normal batteries. i don't see how it can pop or swell up, especially on a slow charger. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a sealed lead acid battery. I've seen one (a yellow top) swell up about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch on top when put on a fast charger at Advance Auto Parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because of the open cells with liquid electrolyte in most lead-acid batteries, overcharging with excessive charging voltages will generate oxygen and hydrogen gas by electrolysis of water, forming an explosive mix. This should be avoided. Caution must also be observed because of the extremely corrosive nature of sulfuric acid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Recommended Charging Information:
Alternator: 13.3 to 15.0 volts; no amperage limit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.optimabatteries.com...4.pdf
Do you think my alternator still might be decent if I replace or recharge the battery or do you think the damage is done? I really don't want to swap the alternator.
