Changing Oil Pan GASKET.....HondaBOND??? Please help
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Changing Oil Pan GASKET.....HondaBOND??? Please help (Hatch It)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch It »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am changing my oil pan gasket, i have searched and read ALOT about it but some people were saying use 'hondabond' but i never heard of this.....
Than some people say dont use any lubes, just clean the oil pan brim and put the gasket on and bolt it up (not too tight)
What should i do? Any other tips on lubing it or anything like that?
Thanks for the help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda don't require you to put hondabond on the oil pan nor tell you to do it. I've put oil pan gaskets on Hondas/Acuras without it and it seals up fine without any leaks. 60k miles later....still no leaks. Just remember to torque the nuts to factory specs.
Than some people say dont use any lubes, just clean the oil pan brim and put the gasket on and bolt it up (not too tight)
What should i do? Any other tips on lubing it or anything like that?
Thanks for the help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda don't require you to put hondabond on the oil pan nor tell you to do it. I've put oil pan gaskets on Hondas/Acuras without it and it seals up fine without any leaks. 60k miles later....still no leaks. Just remember to torque the nuts to factory specs.
#4
Re: Changing Oil Pan GASKET.....HondaBOND??? Please help (Hatch It)
another reminder to toruqe it correctly. 9 ft/lb i believe. Don't try to feel the torque, but get a torque wrench, otherwise it will leak, or you overtorque the nuts and strip the studs.
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Re: Changing Oil Pan GASKET.....HondaBOND??? Please help (mingbling96)
Does anyone have the pattern to tighten the bolots in? do i go criss cross?
Thanks for them help again, im boring my buddies torque wrench tomorrow
Thanks for them help again, im boring my buddies torque wrench tomorrow
#6
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Re: Changing Oil Pan GASKET.....HondaBOND??? Please help (Hatch It)
Torque sequence:
5 1 3
6 2 4
^
This side is the timing belt side
#1 is where the drain plug should be.
Torque those first in sequence to 10 ft-lbs.
All the other nuts just need to be torqued to 10 ft-lbs
5 1 3
6 2 4
^
This side is the timing belt side
#1 is where the drain plug should be.
Torque those first in sequence to 10 ft-lbs.
All the other nuts just need to be torqued to 10 ft-lbs
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#8
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if you can't find hondabond, you can use Permatex gray.
also, the stock gasket has sealant around the curves (where the crank is positioned) if you have a curved type oil pan rather than the flat kind.
also, the stock gasket has sealant around the curves (where the crank is positioned) if you have a curved type oil pan rather than the flat kind.
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Re: (bbarbulo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bbarbulo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you can't find hondabond, you can use Permatex gray.
also, the stock gasket has sealant around the curves (where the crank is positioned) if you have a curved type oil pan rather than the flat kind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Saw that
also, the stock gasket has sealant around the curves (where the crank is positioned) if you have a curved type oil pan rather than the flat kind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Saw that
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Re: (Hatch It)
is it possible to reuse the old gasket? i don't want to pay $30 or however much it is for a new OEM one when it's not NECESSARY. if it is then i'll do it =T
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