SOHC_civic_si

Hey guys,

Before I ask my question, let me tell you I have searched and still have gotten mixed answers. So I would like some clarification.

Exactly how hard is changing a complete distributor? I've read in some places that when you change it, you have to adjust your timing with a timing light, etc., and that when you change one your engine needs to be at a certain temperature? I've also read that it should just bolt up as long as you line up some grooves on the camshaft? Do I need to take the valve cover off for this? Do I need to set my engine at top dead center for this?

Obviously I'm going to have to make sure I don't put it on backwards, or mess up the firing order, but I need a little clarification. I'd just rather not spend $100 which I was quoted for by a mechanic.

BTW, it's a 1999 Civic DX with a D16Y7.

boost and bass

its very simple only 3 bolts u cant really put it on wrong, unless u place the plug wires in the wrong order then its all about timing it right which is simple, have you purshased one yet? I have a perfect running Y7 distributor i can sell to you and im form canada so shiping would be simple let me know if u need.

SOHC_civic_si

Yes I have a new one at home. Explain more about the timing?

1992Si

The dizzy only goes in one way.

You do this with the engine cold.

Scribe a line on the head where the legs of the old dizzy are. One or two line are fine

Disconnect the two connectors. You need to lift one tab and push a square pin in at the same time.

Remove the plug wires and put them on the new cap one at a time making sure they go on the correct socket on the NEW cap.

Back out the bolts on the old dizzy...oh yea, spray them with some PB Blaster first.

Put anti-seize compound on the bolts when you re-install them.

Put a rag under the dizzy, a little oil will come out when you remove the old one.

Rotate the shaft on the new dizzy to line up with the off-set slot in the cam. Put the 3 bolts back in, tighten them after you line up the legs on the new dizzy with the scribe line.

Reconnect the connectors install the cap and wires.

That should be it. The car should start. The next thing you'll want to do is install new plug wires.

OH yea. make sure the new dizzy has anew rotor.

I think that covers it.

The connectors can be a PITA but just remember you need to lift and push the two locking features at the same time as your pulling them apart.

SOHC_civic_si

Thank you for the help 1992Si. If I happen to run into some problems would you mind if I PM'd you?

shailoche

Installing the distributor is a simple process. There are 3 bolts that hold the distributor to the head/valve cover. The only thing you do need to do is to make certain that you don't attach the distributor 180 degrees out of phase. It is possible to install it up side down since the distributor has a u shaped notch that has to line up with the camshaft.

If you take a close look at the distributor when you pull it off and take note of which side of the u shape is facing up...and then replace with a new one making sure that the u shape is the same direction you should be fine.

The u shape fits together with the camshaft inside the valve cover. Since the distributor does attach to the camshaft you can alter the timing, slightly, with the distributor. However, the advance that you can achieve is pretty small by moving the distributor.

The best way to make sure that you haven't advanced the distributor is to mark the alignment of the distributor bolts before you remove the old distributor. Basically, use some white out or some paint/ink to mark the exact spot where the bolt holes and bolts attach distributor to the head/valve cover. If you do that then when you reattach the new distributor make sure the bolts are lined up where the old ones were and you will be fine.

Make sure that you get a new distributor o-ring to replace the one that is on the old distributor. If you don't get a good seal you will leak oil out of the joint between the distributor and the valve cover.

You do not have to take the valve cover off to accomplish this.

You do not have to put the cylinders at TDC. You can replace the distributor regardless of where the cylinders are at in their rotation.

You do need to make sure to keep track of which plug goes with which point on the distributor. If you don't do that then you will have trouble getting the car to fire up and run. So, what I do is mark the valve cover using whiteout with a number 1, 2, 3, and 4 next to a cylinder. Then I mark the distributor with the matching number from the valve cover. I do this before I remove the old plug wires. It seems silly but if you do it you won't have trouble putting the new one back on. Also, have a copy of the Honda service manual hanging around in case you get the wires mixed up. However if you do what I have advised you won't need it.

Once you have done all of that you will be good to go.

1992Si

That would be fine. Just remember I'm on the east coast. it's 8:10 PM
I'll be around for a hour or so. I'm the old guy here. bed time and all...

sergiolib

Soch_civic_si do you live in edmonton? i may be able to give you some help. Did you also take the distributor off? or is it still attatched to the cam?

1992Si

Got your PM. Don't worry about the timing I believe some one else stated that. You can move the dizzy full adjustment with the engine running and it won't change much. The ECU does most of the timing adjustment.

You'll be fine.

civic_driver

Actually, you need to jump the service connector when you adjust the timing from the dizzy. That's how you set it. Otherwise, if you don't jump the service connector, the ECU will take over and change whatever adjustments you make at the dizzy.

1992Si

Yes, but I didn't want to give him to much info just yet.

SOHC_civic_si

Alright guys thanks. And yes sergiolib I live in Edmonton.... But I think I will be able to figure it out.

SOHC_civic_si

Well, it was a lot easier than I thought. When I lined everything up including the u joint thing and pushed it in, the camshaft moved a little, but not very much at all. It started up fine! I just hope this fixes my problem.

Thanks guys!

SOHC_civic_si

Update:

This didn't fix my problem. I now have absolutely no idea what's going on. Can someone shed some light?

civic_driver

You only asked about changing the distributor. You didn't tell us what type of problems you're having or I missed it somehow.

1992Si

Good point there.

He never did tell us the reason. May be we should have asked...

SOHC_civic_si

Oh sorry. I thought I explained what it was in my first post. If you want you can search my previous created threads, as I have made lots with this ONE problem. But I suppose I will just tell it to you all again.

My Honda will start and die right away, or only run for a short time in hot weather. ONLY HOT WEATHER CAUSES THIS PROBLEM. When I say hot weather I mean like 25-30 C. What happens is I will start it up and it either dies right away, or it will run for 20-30 seconds then die. I will start it up again, and it will die right away again.

I never had this problem in the winter time. NEVER. It only occurs during the hotter summer months. Hell, even in the summer, if it's a rainy day, or just cloudy it's completely fine.

I have replaced the main relay, mainly because I read up that when they get old they crack and are notorious for failing under heat soak AKA hot weather. Nothing. Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter are all new, but they shouldn't have anything to do with this because my problem is only in hot temperatures. So in comes the distributor. I searched and found that when the ignitor is old, and it is hot outside, it will heat up too much and shut itself down. After the car has sat for about 10 minutes it will start back up again, but then later down the road will die. Which had lead me to believe that it was the ignitor, because after the 10 minutes it had cooled down enough to run for a little.

Well obviously not. I am so stumped here. I am ready to take my car to a mechanic because I cannot think of anything else. Anything?

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

ECU could also be bad. If you know someone with the same car try theirs out on a hot day.

civic_driver

Have you tested the coil in the distributor? Try that. Also, I know you have new spark plug wires and unless they are OEM, I would test the resistance on them and make sure it's below 25K ohms.

This type of problem can also be caused by cracked spark plug wires.

SOHC_civic_si

I don't see how an ECU could cause this problem. Care to explain further? I'm not by any means saying you're wrong I am just confused as to how an ECU can tell when it's hot or cold outside.

civic_driver

Weather can have an impact on the ECU. It's true. One example is, in hot weather resistance increases, which can cause problems. If the resistance increases beyond a certain point, that can affect the functionality of the ECU. You can swap ECUs to have it tested if you'd like.

SOHC_civic_si

I replaced the entire distributor, so there is a new coil. The spark plug wires are OEM.

civic_driver

It could be a fuel problem as well. One example is the fuel filter. When it's hot, and the fuel filter is clogged, the size of the garbage in the fuel filter increases in size and can restrict the fuel flow.

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

Most electronics are susceptible to temperature changes, I am not saying it IS the cause but since you have ruled out a lot of things it would be MY next step.

SOHC_civic_si

It's not the fuel filter. It was just recently changed. Plus in my explanation it says that the problem goes away after it's cooled down for 10 minutes, then comes back again after I have drive for like 100 meters