central lock for 95 civic hatch back 2 door.
#1
#2
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that rod is for the key lock arm, which is currently blocked off, I'm guessing molded over.
this will not stop the central locking though.
if you manually lock the driver's door, does the passenger's side lock? (with the driver's door closed, the driver's door will not lock if the driver's door is open)
this will not stop the central locking though.
if you manually lock the driver's door, does the passenger's side lock? (with the driver's door closed, the driver's door will not lock if the driver's door is open)
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ok let's get a few easy questions out of the way.
does the car have OEM power locks? - (aftarmarket locks may not have this option, silly but easily overlooked)
is the OEM lock module present in the driver's door (grey box that's inset into the inside of the door a little, right below the mirror) - (the power locks could be a later addition that does not have the actual OEM unit)
does the OEM lock switch work? - (could be a proble mwith the system in general)
how is your keyless entry wired to the locks? directly to the locking actuators or to the OEM lock switch? - (wired incorrectly for central locking to work)
do the power locks work at all? or is it simply manual locking/unlocking only? - (blown fuse)
does the car have OEM power locks? - (aftarmarket locks may not have this option, silly but easily overlooked)
is the OEM lock module present in the driver's door (grey box that's inset into the inside of the door a little, right below the mirror) - (the power locks could be a later addition that does not have the actual OEM unit)
does the OEM lock switch work? - (could be a proble mwith the system in general)
how is your keyless entry wired to the locks? directly to the locking actuators or to the OEM lock switch? - (wired incorrectly for central locking to work)
do the power locks work at all? or is it simply manual locking/unlocking only? - (blown fuse)
#5
Re: (Relic1)
welll ......... i think its over my head
i can tell u that much
1. its have a grey box inside the driver side door right below the mirror
2. i have the switch with my key and every time i unlock , it used to open both door, now it does only one door.
i have no idea about OEM, ask me anything else if there is a easy way to explain..
thanks anyway.
i can tell u that much
1. its have a grey box inside the driver side door right below the mirror
2. i have the switch with my key and every time i unlock , it used to open both door, now it does only one door.
i have no idea about OEM, ask me anything else if there is a easy way to explain..
thanks anyway.
#6
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Re: (joy123)
YOU CAN DO IT!!!! Your almost there. It looks like the little plastic conneting clip for the dangling rod is missing. IDK. Go to majestic and look/find a parts diagram and figure it out. It will be more satisfying if you figure it out for yourself.
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Re: (dognutz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dognutz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU CAN DO IT!!!! Your almost there. It looks like the little plastic conneting clip for the dangling rod is missing. IDK. Go to majestic and look/find a parts diagram and figure it out. It will be more satisfying if you figure it out for yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no offence man, but open a door, look inside at the handle. note this one has the key blocked off. the rod he's holding is the rod that connects to that key cylinder.
OP:
remove that rod if you're never going to have the key cylinder lock in the door. It's not doing anything except rattling around in the door. (note pull up to unlock push down to lock)
to remove it push sideways to unclip the purple or blue plastic peice on the lock assembly on the other end of the rod. (I don't remember which color it is, it's been a few months since I've looked at it)
you have a switch with your key... where is that mounted? there should only be one key cylinder and that's removed in your pic. (confused)
the factory locking system only locks both doors when you lock the driver's door.
Unlocking is seperate for each door. (at least it is in my 93 EX with OEM/factory power locks)
I have a feeling that the car has been "touched" by someone based on the current door lock cylinder status. Could you take some pics of the key lock that you use that used to unlock the doors.
no offence man, but open a door, look inside at the handle. note this one has the key blocked off. the rod he's holding is the rod that connects to that key cylinder.
OP:
remove that rod if you're never going to have the key cylinder lock in the door. It's not doing anything except rattling around in the door. (note pull up to unlock push down to lock)
to remove it push sideways to unclip the purple or blue plastic peice on the lock assembly on the other end of the rod. (I don't remember which color it is, it's been a few months since I've looked at it)
you have a switch with your key... where is that mounted? there should only be one key cylinder and that's removed in your pic. (confused)
the factory locking system only locks both doors when you lock the driver's door.
Unlocking is seperate for each door. (at least it is in my 93 EX with OEM/factory power locks)
I have a feeling that the car has been "touched" by someone based on the current door lock cylinder status. Could you take some pics of the key lock that you use that used to unlock the doors.
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ok, so by central locking you're talking about an aftermarket alarm?
so only one door unlocks when you press unlock on the remote?
does the doors have any kind of actuators to lock the doors? should look something like this... http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-POW...KR9PW
since you have the power lock relay box in the driver's door you may have the factory actuators.
it may be as simple as a broken wire, bad connection or an actuator that died.
just to double check that we're on the same page, could you take a pic of the entire door? I appologize for all the pic requests but it's difficult to toubleshoot when you're not even sure what you have to start with.
since hatches didn't come with power locks in 92-95 either the previous owner swapped the doors or installed the power lock system. It really depends on how it's setup.
so only one door unlocks when you press unlock on the remote?
does the doors have any kind of actuators to lock the doors? should look something like this... http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-POW...KR9PW
since you have the power lock relay box in the driver's door you may have the factory actuators.
it may be as simple as a broken wire, bad connection or an actuator that died.
just to double check that we're on the same page, could you take a pic of the entire door? I appologize for all the pic requests but it's difficult to toubleshoot when you're not even sure what you have to start with.
since hatches didn't come with power locks in 92-95 either the previous owner swapped the doors or installed the power lock system. It really depends on how it's setup.
#11
Re: (Relic1)
thats really nice of u that u trying to help me. just say as much pic as u want, i will give u tomorrow since it is dark now. and the pic u showed me i think i saw one of them on the driver side door but i dont think i saw any on the left side unless it is hidden somewhere. anyway i will give u all the pic tomorrow. thanks.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Relic1)
[QUOTE=Relic1]
no offence man, but open a door, look inside at the handle. note this one has the key blocked off. the rod he's holding is the rod that connects to that key cylinder.
I actually have done this upgrade to my car as well. It was sometime ago and I don't recall exactlly which rods I left and removed.
I agree that the rod shown dangling may be from the key cylinder, don't know. I do know it was a simple system for me, which is easy to figure out.
OP has the lock worked properly while in your care?
Sometimes the connections in the door jam comes a little loose on my car and it causes the locks to not work.
Majestic is a dealership that has decent prices on line. They have diagrams to look at, it may help it may not. Here's the link
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...h.jsp
The dangling wire could be for pulling Check Engine codes.
no offence man, but open a door, look inside at the handle. note this one has the key blocked off. the rod he's holding is the rod that connects to that key cylinder.
I actually have done this upgrade to my car as well. It was sometime ago and I don't recall exactlly which rods I left and removed.
I agree that the rod shown dangling may be from the key cylinder, don't know. I do know it was a simple system for me, which is easy to figure out.
OP has the lock worked properly while in your care?
Sometimes the connections in the door jam comes a little loose on my car and it causes the locks to not work.
Majestic is a dealership that has decent prices on line. They have diagrams to look at, it may help it may not. Here's the link
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...h.jsp
The dangling wire could be for pulling Check Engine codes.
#14
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dognutz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually have done this upgrade to my car as well. It was sometime ago and I don't recall exactlly which rods I left and removed.
I agree that the rod shown dangling may be from the key cylinder, don't know. I do know it was a simple system for me, which is easy to figure out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry man, I didn't mean to make it sound like I was ripping on you. I've been fishing around inside a driver's door off and on for almost three weeks now. The marks on my arms can tell me where everything is in there...
joy123: pic 2 shows no grey box under the mirror, at least not where I'd expect to see it (the big open hole is where it usually mounts)
Also the wiring looks like it's an OEM copy of some sorts.
unplug the connector shown in the third pic, connect a 12V bulb across the two wires on the side to the right (that runs to the door jam)
then lock and unlock your doors with the remote.
If the light lights up then you're getting power to the actuator, you should replace the plug to the actuator and try to lock and unlock again, if the arm moves a little but not enough, try closing the door and trying it again.
If the light doesn't light then you have a wiring problem somewhere.
I agree that the rod shown dangling may be from the key cylinder, don't know. I do know it was a simple system for me, which is easy to figure out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry man, I didn't mean to make it sound like I was ripping on you. I've been fishing around inside a driver's door off and on for almost three weeks now. The marks on my arms can tell me where everything is in there...
joy123: pic 2 shows no grey box under the mirror, at least not where I'd expect to see it (the big open hole is where it usually mounts)
Also the wiring looks like it's an OEM copy of some sorts.
unplug the connector shown in the third pic, connect a 12V bulb across the two wires on the side to the right (that runs to the door jam)
then lock and unlock your doors with the remote.
If the light lights up then you're getting power to the actuator, you should replace the plug to the actuator and try to lock and unlock again, if the arm moves a little but not enough, try closing the door and trying it again.
If the light doesn't light then you have a wiring problem somewhere.
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