shm91

I did a compression check on my '00 civic. pulled out the distributor plug, and all the spark plugs. Found out on the first time (not sure if it was #1 or #4 cyl.) that the gauge I borrowed was defective, so, I put everything back in.
I cranked the car for a second. It was not turning on. Found that I forgot to put the plug back on. DId it. Car started. But it had that rattle through the whole car and it died on me after 20 seconds of starting. Cranked again, and it stayed good at 900 rpm. But the rattle didn't go away. Went to the pepboys nearby, the code was P1399, and another is Cylinder #1 missfire.

I changed the old spark plug wires right away. Was the same. For the spark plug, I changed two months ago.

I recently had an overheat that lasted about 5 minutes, since I called towing right away. I was smelling sweet at the tail pipe, so, was testing for head gasket leak with the compression test.

But, this time the very strong odor came out of hood, and I could even smell it very strong behind the wheel. It smelled like a little bit of burnt, unpurified exhaust gas with some bit of gasoline.

What could it be?

B_Swapped93

first confirm firing order probably not the case but still. 2nd what were your compression numbers ?

shm91

Each wire is connected to the right spots.
I couldn't do any of them since the first cylinder I tried was "0" due to the faulty tester, it leaked oils through the pressure release valve, it's the one from Autozone.

shm91

I did a compression check on my '00 civic. pulled out the distributor plug, and all the spark plugs. Found out on the first time (not sure if it was #1 or #4 cyl.) that the gauge I borrowed was defective, so, I put everything back in.
I cranked the car for a second. It was not turning on. Found that I forgot to put the plug back on. DId it. Car started. But it had that rattle through the whole car and it died on me after 20 seconds of starting. Cranked again, and it stayed good at 900 rpm. But the rattle didn't go away. Went to the pepboys nearby, the code was P1399, and another is Cylinder #1 missfire.

I changed the old spark plug wires right away. Was the same. For the spark plug, I changed two months ago.

I recently had an overheat that lasted about 5 minutes, since I called towing right away. I was smelling sweet at the tail pipe, so, was testing for head gasket leak with the compression test.

But, this time the very strong odor came out of hood, and I could even smell it very strong behind the wheel. It smelled like a little bit of burnt, unpurified exhaust gas with some bit of gasoline.

What could it be?

Former User

You may have blown the coil.

shm91

I Changed the title and reposted this, but don't know how to remove this thread.
THe new thread title is "CEL p1399 & Cylinder 1 missfire"

B_Swapped93

this was my thought but then he'd be dead in the water no ?

op try throwing a plug in the wire and grounding it on the VC if you have spark then i'd say it's a valve issue(burnt/warped). why where you compression testing it in the first place ?

Former User

No. A coil can be dead and cause no start or damaged and cause random misfires.

B_Swapped93

A worn cap and/or rotor is a possibility here also.

Former User

Lot's of possibilities for random misfires, but starting the engine with an unplugged plug wire seems to be the white elephant in the room.

shm91

Just a quick note.
I thought I didn't specify the 'plug'. It's the one plug that comes out of the distributor.


The spark plug wires has been connected from the distributor to the engine all the times.
Just to make sure.

Former User

Oh, okay. I misunderstood. I assumed you meant spark plug wire as it was unclear.

Are your plug wires installed in the wrong firing order on the distributor cap?

shm91

Okay.
Yeah, I wasn't sure, but just googled this picture for Honda civic. I did it the right way.

(http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl661f.htm)

Does Replacing the coil still seem reasonable? At this point, I just want to start removing each possibilities, if it's reasonable.
The car was running okay without any code, until before the compression test. So, I think rather than the valve problems (internal engine problems), it could be some thing electrical, just guessing.

shm91

Planning to do a compression check one more time tomorrow with a working equipment.
Hopefully, the compression would be fine, so at least I don't deal with the engine itself.

Former User

You can resistance/Ohm test the coil. Have AutoZone test the ICM. It's a free service. When you do this, inspect the inside of the cap and check whether the rotor screw is loose.

Post pictures of your plug wires installed on the cap at an angle where we can follow the wires to the valve cover.

Former User

Related threads merged.

shm91

Sorry, Pictures are big from my phone. But, they are about total twenty pictures.

The ICM was checked at Autozone, and passed it (Green light). Two times not passing being one time due to bad current, but other three times were okay.


Checked the coil with a multi-meter, but it didn't work so well. Put the unit on "200", and connected positive and negative side. Got 14.0. The other one from positive to ignition coil (?) - not sure what to call it - , it didn't have any resistance.


I just found out from a ETCG vid, there's a spring on the coil tip. I had nothing. The inner center screw worked well. It popped up right away, as I put off pressure from my finger.

There was some yellow dry residue like a chalk on the inner cap on the metal rod. Not seen well here.

shm91

For Compression test, I couldn't do the wet test, because after dry test, I accidentally put 3-4 oz of engine oil on Cylinder #3 instead of putting little amount. I'm now really nervous about this.
Anyway, the dry test result was,

#1 #2 #3 #4
1st 200 182 175 180

2nd 195 (6 turns) 182 180 (6 turns) (N/A)

3rd 196 (5 turns) (N/A) 175 (5 turns) (N/A)

#1 #2 #3 #4

shm91

It turned out #1 plug deformed. Left is #2 cylinder plug.


#4 (Left) and #3 plugs (right)



The plug wire connection: