CEL code 9 and now a no start condition
#1
CEL code 9 and now a no start condition
First, I'd like to say I appreciate this forum being here. I've been lurking for a while, but a condition has arisen that I need help with.
I recently bought a 1993 LX with 96,000 miles to replace my 99 Chevy Blazer with 189,000 miles. Every single time I worked on that dang Chevy I cussed and swore I'd never buy an American car ever again. I buy American, but I'm tired of horrible engineering and everything being a pita to fix.
Anyway.....
I decided I'd try to find a Honda or similar Japanese car. Due to my budget, I was basically left with either a handful of mid to late 90s Civics with 225,000 miles or more, or the one I ended up buying. I bought about $300 worth of tune up type stuff (timing belt and water pump, all the belts, all the filters, pcv stuff, left cv shaft, both sides inner and outer tie rods.) I touted my Honda's reliability to my wife and she listened dutifully. Then, I started having some issues.
First it threw a CEL, code 9, CYP sensor. Then it would die when sitting still, like at a red light. Would restart easily, and no problems with acceleration. Then, it was unable to rev above 3500 RPMs. Now, it has stopped dying at lights, but it still won't run above 3500 and it won't start by itself. I have to spray ether in the intake hose. Once it starts, it runs fine.
I removed the dizzy cap to start checking. The assembly had what looked like red oxidation all over it, the cap had metal shavings in it, and oil residue on the downward side of the inside. So, obviously metal shavings are bad. Oil is bad.
Given all the details, I'm assuming the distributor needs to be replaced. I assume it won't start because the spark isn't being timed correctly to fire the fuel at the appropriate time. Am I correct in thinking I read that the engine will revert to batch firing the injectors when it can't pick up the cyp sensor? I haven't had a chance to run a multimeter across the wires yet, but hopefully I can get that done tomorrow evening.
I just want to know if it seems like I'm thinking correctly and am on the right track. If this was a GM engine, I'd be ok, but the Civic with its quirks is new to me. If your opinion is that I should replace the distributor, what should I get? I don't have the budget for a $300+ OEM dizzy right now. There are a couple used ones on eBay, but I just don't know what to do.
Thanks all.
I recently bought a 1993 LX with 96,000 miles to replace my 99 Chevy Blazer with 189,000 miles. Every single time I worked on that dang Chevy I cussed and swore I'd never buy an American car ever again. I buy American, but I'm tired of horrible engineering and everything being a pita to fix.
Anyway.....
I decided I'd try to find a Honda or similar Japanese car. Due to my budget, I was basically left with either a handful of mid to late 90s Civics with 225,000 miles or more, or the one I ended up buying. I bought about $300 worth of tune up type stuff (timing belt and water pump, all the belts, all the filters, pcv stuff, left cv shaft, both sides inner and outer tie rods.) I touted my Honda's reliability to my wife and she listened dutifully. Then, I started having some issues.
First it threw a CEL, code 9, CYP sensor. Then it would die when sitting still, like at a red light. Would restart easily, and no problems with acceleration. Then, it was unable to rev above 3500 RPMs. Now, it has stopped dying at lights, but it still won't run above 3500 and it won't start by itself. I have to spray ether in the intake hose. Once it starts, it runs fine.
I removed the dizzy cap to start checking. The assembly had what looked like red oxidation all over it, the cap had metal shavings in it, and oil residue on the downward side of the inside. So, obviously metal shavings are bad. Oil is bad.
Given all the details, I'm assuming the distributor needs to be replaced. I assume it won't start because the spark isn't being timed correctly to fire the fuel at the appropriate time. Am I correct in thinking I read that the engine will revert to batch firing the injectors when it can't pick up the cyp sensor? I haven't had a chance to run a multimeter across the wires yet, but hopefully I can get that done tomorrow evening.
I just want to know if it seems like I'm thinking correctly and am on the right track. If this was a GM engine, I'd be ok, but the Civic with its quirks is new to me. If your opinion is that I should replace the distributor, what should I get? I don't have the budget for a $300+ OEM dizzy right now. There are a couple used ones on eBay, but I just don't know what to do.
Thanks all.
#2
Re: CEL code 9 and now a no start condition
Red dust in distributor = bad bearing
Code 9 could cause the problems you describe.
Replace the distributor and go from there. A new Honda distributor is obviously best, though there are some other brands that are less costly but still adequate. Maybe others can make recommendations.
Code 9 could cause the problems you describe.
Replace the distributor and go from there. A new Honda distributor is obviously best, though there are some other brands that are less costly but still adequate. Maybe others can make recommendations.
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