xmxwxmx

I have a 93 dx hatch d15 block z6 head. All of a sudden one day it wouldn't start. When you turn they key, nothing. I put a new starter on it, new inhibitor switch on the clutch pedal with no change. The car does drift start but still nothing with the key.

Do I need a new ignition switch? Just want to know before I spend anymore money I don't need to. Thanks....

avatar1

what do you mean turn key nothing happends,or you turn key here a click,or does engine turn over,but does not start.

B18C5-EH2

I stole this from Ron:



Make sure you replaced the button/grommet/pad with the crude red arrow. It is a super bitch to reach, so if you got yours in easily I'm betting you replaced the easy one (on clutch pedal switch "B") that only has to do with cruise control, not starting.

xmxwxmx

B18C5-EH2: Thanks for the diagram, I will check later today to see if I replaced A or B.

avatar1: I turn the key over to start the car and there is no click, nothing. I have a new fuel pump as well. It primes and I have power but the car does not turn over.

EJeff8

^You would know now if you replaced either. The small pad or "A" is sitting behind the bracket that bolts at the top of the clutch pedal. You either know you replaced it or you definitely didn't. If you find pieces of rubber on your driver side floor, you know that's the cause.

EDIT: B18C5 doesn't mean replace the switches, he means to check to see if the ruber piece that triggers the switch is still intact.

EJeff8

This intrigues me though. Whenever I push the clutch in on cruise control, the rpms freak and sky rocket, I always assumed it was just a defect of having cruise on a 5 speed, but maybe it isn't?

B18C5-EH2

Cruise control is supposed to disengage immediately as soon as either the brake (though the brake light switch circuit) or clutch pedal is pressed just enough to activate switch "B" in the diagram above.

Switch "A" is literally the clutch safety switch/completes starter signal, and switch "B" is literally the cruise cancel switch.

Back to the OP:

Yes I mean replace the little flat rubbery plastic piece, part number 46505-SA5-000, not the actual switch "A."

There's also another way to "fix" this and that is to completely bypass the switch altogether. By unplugging the switch and basically jumping the plug for the switch (on the car harness plug) it will basically not even need the switch to start any more...

BUT!!!

This could be viewed as "unsafe" because the vehicle would then be able to start without pressing the clutch which also means that if the car were in gear and you turn the key to start it it would literally jump/take off and start in gear.

It might not be "right" but I've got my plug jumped on my 1992 Civic because I tend to reach in and start it without actually getting in the car. I know, I know it could be disastrous if the car were in gear, but I always make sure it's in neutral first.

...which brings me back to Special Brownie's cruise control issue - if someone jumped the switch like I'm talking about for the starter signal/clutch safety switch then maybe the cruise is staying engaged when it should not be?

xmxwxmx

B18C5-EH2: I only have one switch since I don't have cruise. I got the car to start by taking the switch out and pushing it in myself. Now my question is where do I get a "button/grommet/pad" and how do I replace it? Does the pedal assembly have to come out?

Thanks in advance

B18C5-EH2

Sorry to spin even more off topic, but Special Brownie your cruise issue has my mind warped right now.

I suspect your rpm is from the cruise not canceling, but I cannot wrap my head around if it would be due to a missing grommet, or someone having jumpered the plug. There's no real reason to need to jumper that plug, so check to see if your plastic button (part number is the same for the button on pretty much all Hondas that have brake/cruise/clutch safety switches) and if it's missing start by replacing it, then recheck your cruise cancel.

B18C5-EH2

Get the part from any Honda or Acura dealership - part number is listed a few posts back.

You replace it by pushing the clutch in (allows room to pop the switch in place) and while it pressed in you have to fish the little plastic button/grommet into place - this is the crappy part. I've used long needle nosed pliers, and I've seen other use a wrench (not sure what size - just large enough for the button to fit) with tape on the wrench to "grip" the button to get it in place.

...ir just jump the plug for it.

Former User

I agree with your thinking here Tom. One possibility is that the cc pedal stopper fell out or broke and a previous owner's fix was to jump the cc switch so that cc would still engage. Brownie, does cc cancel fine with the brake pedal?

EJeff8

^Ah. I was confused at first but I got it.

So my issue is, is that when I'm in Cruise, it does fine. I hit the button, it turns off. I hit the brake, it turns off. I shift into neutral and the car essentially floors it via CC. I haven't myself checked for the rubber plug but to not cloud up this guy's thread I think I know what I need to look for.

Thanks for indirectly solving an issue I've had Tom and Ron! =D

92integraVTECgsr

This sounds like the same issue I'm having. 92 Acura Integra GS-R. Will not crank over. Replaced the starter relay, starter. The starter is NOT receiving any power from the black/white wire. The wire is good from the switch to the starter, it is just not receiving any power when the key is turn. I never knew or seen a higher clutch switch "B". Would this cause the ignition not to send the starter power to crank over?

Former User

Switch A is for the starter, whereas switch B is for cruise control.

Yes, the Blk/Wht wire won't get voltage if switch A or the stopper for switch A is broken.

chucky420

I had a no start problem involving the "pedal pad" (I think that's what Honda calls it). The little thing deteriorated and went to pieces. I bought three of them from hondapartsunlimited.com because if one fell apart, the other two would be gone soon. I bypassed the switch and left it that way, even after the new parts had arrived. Then, one day, I came outside to find my brake lights stuck on. I popped new pads in each spot. One on the brake pedal (brake light switch), and two on the clutch pedal (interlock, and cruise control switch). The cruise control switch pad was still in one piece, unlike the others, but broke when I removed it. The pads have a flat side that contacts the switch, and a tapered pointed side that goes into a hole in the top of the pedal arm. The brake and cruise control pads were easy. Installing the interlock pad (the high, hard to reach one) was accomplished by wrapping the blade of a good sized flathead screwdriver with masking tape and sticking the flat side of the pad to it. Press the pedal with your hand and slide the tool up in and press the pointed end of the pad into the hole in the pedal. Done. The replacement pads are around two bucks each and are hard white plastic unlike the original softer black plastic. If the cruise control pad is gone then the cruise control won't turn on, if the interlock pad is gone then the car won't start, and the brake lights will stay on if the brake switch pad is gone. The nose of the switches go right through the hole where the pad mounts.

92integraVTECgsr

Awesome. I've replaced the others before, just never knew or seen a higher switch lol. And I guess that explains why cruise control never worked LOL!