Tad

Ok, i'm looking through my service manual now, but I wanted to
see what you guys had to say first.

So! a few days ago I installed new suspension(neuspeed konis)
and took my car out for a really hard drive.
I have a 272 deltacam in my d15b7 dx hatch, and only intake.
the only thing I could do to get it to idle right was to advance the ignition timing really far.
it runs REALLY rich at idle.

NOW after that hard drive, I got home and the car was making a squeaking/screeching noise, from somewhere in the enginebay, couldnt pinpoint but it sounded like it was coming from the distributor/tranny side.

I made another post here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=713256
and guys suggested that my distributor bearing was going out.

And now, today, I try to start my car, it wont
actually I did get it to start a couple times, but not long enough for it to warm up,
eventually it'd just die. But most of the times, if I tried to start it it'd just chug and chug, giving it gas helps, but even when I got it started, it would die unless I hold the revs above 1krpm.

I have a feeling that if I did it long enough for the car to warm up fully, that it'd hold an idle though.

Also I have a check engine light now.

SO I'm wondering,
would you say its only my distributor?
I'm thinking maybe the fuel filter, or something else in the fuel system maybe got fudged due to running so damn rich.

I'll probably take out the cam before I try to fix it.

thanks for any more input.

TeamNextGenChris

so,what codes are you getting?
chris

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so,what codes are you getting?
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure at the moment,
I dont have a scanner,
but I know theres a method to do it without that,
I just have to find it in my manual(big *** pdf fuking service manual.. hard to find ****).

I guess I'd better make sure I do that tonight

H22A EG6

find the plug w/ a green rubber cover and connect it with a wire to close the circuit count the flashes
short=1
long=10

Tad

does the car have to be runnign to be able to show the codes?

cuz as I said.. car wont start,
I jumped the wire and put the ignition on as far as it can go without trying to start the car.

but I get no CEL,
its odd too, because the cel is supposed to be on no matter what if the conector is jumped

it might be that the CEL i was getting went away..
altho car def stil dont work.

TeamNextGenChris

you must not have had a good connection if the CEL went off.it will either flash codes or stay on if you have no codes.
chris

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you must not have had a good connection if the CEL went off.it will either flash codes or stay on if you have no codes.
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've jumped the connector multiple times before using the same paper clip,
its always worked fine.

does the car need to be running?

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i've jumped the connector multiple times before using the same paper clip,
its always worked fine.

does the car need to be running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no,just turn it to the "on" position.i've not had a good connection before,and it wouldn't jump the connector.try it again and make sure you get the jumper in there good and see what happens.
chris

Tad

ok,
I tried it again, tried cleaning the paperclip a bit, didnt work.

so I tried resetting my ecu.. and it worked!
or the jump worked at least. But the car isnt giving me any code anymore.
I guess I should have pulled the code immediately when that cel showed up.

car still wont start...
but from what everyones said, it "should" be the distributor,
I just would have really really liked to know for sure before going ahead and shelling out $150

B18C2_sedan

use a friends to make sure it is the dizzy. Cars need two things to start Fuel and spark. Find out which one your missing. That will norrow it down

GTlvr82

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the car have to be runnign to be able to show the codes?

cuz as I said.. car wont start,
I jumped the wire and put the ignition on as far as it can go without trying to start the car.

but I get no CEL,
its odd too, because the cel is supposed to be on no matter what if the conector is jumped

it might be that the CEL i was getting went away..
altho car def stil dont work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Some Cel codes only come on when the car is running....like in my case I had crossed vtec wires (don't ask...) and it didn't show when the car was on ACC/on...same with the O2 sensor in some occasions. My guess is that it might be a sensor that requires the car to run to get it to get diagnosed healthy or not by the computer. You could find the amps/watts (or whatever its called) for each sensor and get a voltmeter to test each one to see if they are bad.

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok,
car still wont start...
but from what everyones said, it "should" be the distributor,
I just would have really really liked to know for sure before going ahead and shelling out $150</TD></TR></TABLE>
before blowing that money on a distributor,i'd test all the components inside.you'll need a multimeter and a shop manual.if you don't have a shop manual,you can DL them online or a cheap one from an auto parts store will do.you can get a cheap digital multimeter for about $10.definately worth it to help diagnose your problem,and possibly save you from wasting money on a distributor you don't need.
chris

Tad

hmm,
well the only problem..
I dont know wtf a voltmeter or multimeter is or wtf it does,
let alone how to use to to check "components"

TheIntegraGuy

Check your ignitor.

Tad

OK update.

I pulled off my distributor and tore it apart..
and heh.. man that thing is TOAST
all the teeth on the gear inside have been torn off and there are metal shavings everywhere inside the distributor, also it is very hard to turn the rotor.

so yeah I'm pretty sure it was the distributor.
although I'm not sure why exactly it died like this.

Only thing I can guess is that its because I have my timing set so far forward... but even then.. I dont understand how that could damage the internals of the distributor?

TheIntegraGuy

The age of the distrubutor could of done the trick. My guess is the distributor O-rings went bad and just started from there.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheIntegraGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The age of the distrubutor could of done the trick. My guess is the distributor O-rings went bad and just started from there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, and it probably works pretty hard,
due to my cam, and driving tendencies.

I noticed a thread in allmotor talking about honda dizzies...
and how often they go bad, heh.
Seems like especially with dseries dizzies, they go bad after being run hard on a
heavily modified motor for a while.

Tad

UPDATE:

GOT IT WORKIN!
thanks for all the help
dohcdx sold me a dizzy for 30bux shipped,
got here asap and it worked immediately! thanks!