duggy

I have a 95 GSR motor in a 92 hatch.

So far I've done:
New cap and rotor
Check for spark
Check for fuel (can hear the fuel pump priming)
Check for compression (take spark plug put and put wire in. It flew out)
Timing is dead on
New spark plugs
All grounds are good

Motor is for sure good. Got it from http://www.hmotorsonline.com. Has verified 41k miles.

Running a 95 GSR P72 WITHOUT knock and o2 wired. Even without those two sensors it should start up. Battery is constantly hooked up to a charger so I'm getting juice for sure.

It cranks, just doesn't turn over. It feels like it wants to turn over but it just goes pop pop pop. Like mini backfires or whatnot.

I am totally stumped. If anybody wants to help me and come to my house and can get it started up, I will take you out to lunch.

Searched, read, everything. I've tried everything in those threads and non of them work.

duggy

The only thing I can think of right now is:

Getting a p28, or getting the p72 chipped for knock, or it's the dizzy itself.

92HatchB16

Don't have to get all violent...but I say you should check the Dizzy itself.

duggy

It's really not to be hostile. It's just that I know the search ****'s will be in here sooner or later.

IHateJDM

try a different battery.

duggy

Would it be the battery because the starter sounds strong.

ALLMOTORCRX20

check to make sure that you put the ignition wires correctly.

duggy

Firing order is correct.

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it be the battery because the starter sounds strong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen multiple messed up batteries that would turn the starter and not start the car. They wouldn't accept a charge either. Just something simple to try. You need 4 things for the engine to start, fuel, spark, compression, and timing. Can you smell fuel by the fuel rail after trying to start it? are you sure you have spark?

ALLMOTORCRX20

distributor 4 3 2 1 cam gears

on the dizzy there should be one terminal, i believe its the one on the left lower side of the distributor, it should have a "c" with a circle on it. That terminal is going to be number 1 cylinder. It should be


3 4

1 2

B18C5-EH2

Try this stuff too:

Summers in full swing, and I see more and more "My car spins over, but won't start" topics here, and I expect that since summertime brings out the worst in electrical components for our Civics.
So you get in your car, try and start it, but it only spins over?

First of all these steps only apply for a car that has enough battery juice to power up the starter enough to spin the car over normally. If you've tried starting the car so many times that your battery is weak, find a jump box or cables and go from there.

The most common problem is the main fuel pump relay, and you do not have to do much to diagnose it.

1. Turn the key into the "on" position and watch for the check engine light to go out just as the third key chime beep beeps. As the light goes out you should hear a faint "clink" noise coming from under the dash on the driver's side (passenger side for EK Civics), near the hood release lever. If you hear no "clink" then you need a main relay. They cost maybe $60.00 new at Honda, and they are a snap to replace. If you're a cheap bastard and cannot afford a new one, it can be repaired with a soldering iron and some knowledge, but i'd just buy a new one.

So you hear the "clink" noise, but still no starting, eh?

Well now it's time to dig a bit deeper. you need to figure out if you're not getting spark or fuel. 99% of spinning over, but not starting problems are from either no fuel or fire. the other 1% is no compression, and that just isn't common.

1. Checking for spark.

Grab up a long screwdriver and pull one plug wire out of the cylinder. Stick the tip of the screw driver into the plug wire end far enough to make contact with the metal tab in the wire to the tip of the screw driver. Tilt the handle of the screwdriver so that you hold the shaft of the screwdriver near any metal surface - i use one of the valvecover hold down nuts. Have a friend (if you have any) spin the car over. If you see sparks between the shaft of the screwdriver and the other metal surface, then you have spark. If not, then you have a problem getting spark then.

2. If you have no spark then there are a few different parts that can cause this. *Usually* it is the ignition coil, loctaed inside your distributor. It is a little box with a spring sticking out of it with a goldish case around it, and it's held in with two phillps screws once you get your car and rotor out of the way. I don't know of any real way of checking one out of the car other than replacing it with a known good one. A lot of times the coil will have burn/flash marks on it if it's bad, or going bad. a new coil from honda is about $90.00.

3. The other common (but not as common as the coil) is the ignitor module. It is a flat plastic-looking piece inisde the distributor with a few tabs with wires hooked up to it. I believe it's also held in with a few screws. again I know of no visual cues that an ignitor is bad, so if you can get another, try it out. a new ignitor from Honda is also about $90.00.

4. Another blanket way to fix the no spark would be a good new distributor from http://www.distributorking.com. this way you get a new base with sensors, coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, etc. all for a little more than the cost of an ignitor or coil.

The last item that can cause spinning over, but not starting is the ignition switch pigtail assembly. When these go bad they typically allow the car to crank for a second, but then it shuts right back off. I diagnose these by simply cranking the car and backing off the key just enough to disengage the starter, but still be in the full "crank" position. If you let go of the key and it springs back into the normal position and the engine dies, you need a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion. do not confuse this with the entire ignition assembly with lock cylinder - it's just the electrical harness. These are pretty cheap, but a PITA to install.

Hope this helps some of you guys.

Now what if the main relay works, and you have spark, but still no starting?

Time to check for fuel, and it's easy.

Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen the banjo nut on top of your fuel filter, and have someone turn the key into the "on" position - he may not even have to try and spin the car over. If you get no fuel spray, then you are not getting fuel, and if the main relay is in fact working, it's time for a fuel pump.

The fuel pump is located in an access panel under your rear seat cushion. I personally would try and find a used Integra fuel pump or even a new one if you can afford the pricetag - aftermarket ones suck ***. I say Integra because it's an upgrade, especially if you can get a GS-R one.

...but in your case it sounds like the timing is off.

duggy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen multiple messed up batteries that would turn the starter and not start the car. They wouldn't accept a charge either. Just something simple to try. You need 4 things for the engine to start, fuel, spark, compression, and timing. Can you smell fuel by the fuel rail after trying to start it? are you sure you have spark? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes sir I am sure. Took a screw driver and stuck it in the ignition wire and it had spark on all four. I accidently didn't connect the fuel line to the rail tight enough and fuel sprayed everywhere so I'm for sure getting fuel. There's even some on the plugs.

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes sir I am sure. Took a screw driver and stuck it in the ignition wire and it had spark on all four. I accidently didn't connect the fuel line to the rail tight enough and fuel sprayed everywhere so I'm for sure getting fuel. There's even some on the plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then if you're sure there is compression, you may want to redo the timing belt.

BenzTek134

does the car crank and just not start or u get nothing? if u get nothing check to make sure you have the starter wires and alternator wires on tight and correct also
check the 200amp might be 100amp fuse on pass side underhood next to firewall i blew that once and had same problem.

duggy

I read that follow up before hand. I hear the clink...

I crank the car and it just keeps on cranking and cranking.

I'll have another look at the timing belt.

siblueg

check to see if you have the sensors on the intake mani. backwards

IHateJDM

Do the obd1 gsr injectors need a resistor box? If so do you have one? (mistake that kept my swap from starting).

duggy

The harness didn't come with a resistor box. I think only OBD0 injectors need a resister box?

93Civac

This may sound really stupid but try unplugging your alternator. And see if it will crank. I just finished a b16 swap in my car and had a similar problem. My car wouldnt start, all it did was turn over and make a few backfire sounds. I had spark and fuel getting to the rail. But it would not turn over. I unplugged the alternator and it started but was running really rough. Turns out two injectors were not firing and thats the reason the car wouldnt run. I have no idea what the alternator had to do with it not starting, but thats how I found out the injectors werent firing. I replaced the two that were bad, plugged the alternator back up and have had no problems since.

duggy

Here's a video as to what it's doing.

http://www.xducnx.net/videos/MVI_0775.AVI

duggy

Any ideas?

SoSlo

try pulling your injectors out and turning it over with them out to make sure that they are all spraying and not just plugged of dribbling fluid out

i would say make sure that all your timing marks line up ie the cam markers and the timing mark on the crank pully

try a different ecu just borrow a friends

JDM_Ej

Search!!

::drops pants::

Luserkid

Downloading the video right now, kind of big dont you think? But sounds like a timing problem for sure. Either your timing belt is off a tooth or the spark order or even the ignitor is out. Also sticking a wire into the spark plug hole and watch it shoot out is not a compression test. Its just something to see that doesnt tell you didally. Get a compression testor and do it right.

If you were local i could have sure gone for that free lunch..... bummer.

xerox445

Im going to say timing.