car is still boggin after replacing o2 sensor
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car is still boggin after replacing o2 sensor
I keep getting the same result. After the car is warmed up for at least 10 minutes. I give the gas 70 percent and it makes an annoying bogging sound like its hesitating. I thought it would be the distributor but someone told me it'd be the o2 sensor. Its a d15 block with a D16y8 obd2 head.
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Re: car is still boggin after replacing o2 sensor (ridin98civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ridin98civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it was an 02 sensor you would most likely get a CEL, do you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I concur..do you have any CELS?
Try cleaning your IAC valve. Not for sure..but it could help with the bogging. Kind of a common thing somewhat related to bogging when dirty/faulty.
I concur..do you have any CELS?
Try cleaning your IAC valve. Not for sure..but it could help with the bogging. Kind of a common thing somewhat related to bogging when dirty/faulty.
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Re: car is still boggin after replacing o2 sensor (tommy.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is for the 5-speed Y8.
You'll notice that the IACV [item #9] has been moved to the manifold itself where as on the auto manifold, this mounting location was blocked off.
These IACV's are also different between the two. The auto Y8 uses a 3-wire while the 5-speed uses a 2-wire.
ECU's meant to control a 3-wire IACV will NEVER be able to control a 2-wire IACV and vice-versa.
Another important difference in their operation is what happens to them if you simply unplug them. If you unplug a 2-wire IACV, there is a spring that pushes a 'paddle' closed thus sealing off the additional air passage to the manifold. Well, if you unplug a 3-wire IACV, it doesn't close down - it actually remains open, just inactive, which does allow a very large vaccum leak into the manifold.
I mention this, because I've seen too often where someone has a stock Y7 wanting to do a Y8 manifold swap. They purchase the 5-speed Y8 version but still retain the stock Y7 throttle body and since they still have the 3-wire IACV attatched, just left disconnected, it becomes a big vaccum leak which leads to the hunting idle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im currently running a d16z6 intake manifold. Would that be the problem? Would i need to get a 5-spd Y8 Manifold with 2-wire IACV?
You'll notice that the IACV [item #9] has been moved to the manifold itself where as on the auto manifold, this mounting location was blocked off.
These IACV's are also different between the two. The auto Y8 uses a 3-wire while the 5-speed uses a 2-wire.
ECU's meant to control a 3-wire IACV will NEVER be able to control a 2-wire IACV and vice-versa.
Another important difference in their operation is what happens to them if you simply unplug them. If you unplug a 2-wire IACV, there is a spring that pushes a 'paddle' closed thus sealing off the additional air passage to the manifold. Well, if you unplug a 3-wire IACV, it doesn't close down - it actually remains open, just inactive, which does allow a very large vaccum leak into the manifold.
I mention this, because I've seen too often where someone has a stock Y7 wanting to do a Y8 manifold swap. They purchase the 5-speed Y8 version but still retain the stock Y7 throttle body and since they still have the 3-wire IACV attatched, just left disconnected, it becomes a big vaccum leak which leads to the hunting idle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im currently running a d16z6 intake manifold. Would that be the problem? Would i need to get a 5-spd Y8 Manifold with 2-wire IACV?
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