car is slower, water got it?
#1
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car is slower, water got it?
the other night it was raining hard, so i disconnected my CAI at the trotle body, and ran it like that. I put on the CAI back the next morning and car goes normal, but felt kinda slow. so i raced my friends integra which i usually win by at least 3 cars, but my car only hangs with him and dont pull. anyone know if its because water got in my engine somehow? i changed the spark plugs, but car is still slow. what else might be wrong? btw it is 99 si.
#2
Re: car is slower, water got it? (aznpymp)
So basically, you just ran your car with no filter at all? Just straight throttle body? Maybe some dirt or foreign object got inside the engine..
#4
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Re: car is slower, water got it? (aznpymp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad idea...</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed. don't know whats wrong, but thats a dumb decision. should have at least put the filter on the TB.
maybe seafoam it, and see what happens.
agreed. don't know whats wrong, but thats a dumb decision. should have at least put the filter on the TB.
maybe seafoam it, and see what happens.
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#8
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Re: car is slower, water got it? (STG3PWR)
if you pull you cai off because it is raining definitely put the filter strait onto the throttle body. It will keep your engine perfect and get you home with out hydro locking it.
#9
i know this is true on my ford but i do not know if it is also true to hondas, they have adaptive settings in the computer when you took the air filter off the oxygen sensors were telling the computer that you were running lean because the engine was getting more air then it was getting before and the copmuter richened the mixture up to compensate, now when you put the filter on the engine is running rich and will take some time for the computer to adapt back to optimal settings that will work with the intake connected. also sucking in the hot air from the engien bay probrally told the computer to pull back the timing.
i would also say to reset the computer and within 300 miles you should be back to normal. an oil change and injector cleaning may help overall they are in no way contributing to the prolblem
i would also say to reset the computer and within 300 miles you should be back to normal. an oil change and injector cleaning may help overall they are in no way contributing to the prolblem
#12
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Re: (b16h22a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this is true on my ford but i do not know if it is also true to hondas, they have adaptive settings in the computer when you took the air filter off the oxygen sensors were telling the computer that you were running lean because the engine was getting more air then it was getting before and the copmuter richened the mixture up to compensate, now when you put the filter on the engine is running rich and will take some time for the computer to adapt back to optimal settings that will work with the intake connected. also sucking in the hot air from the engien bay probrally told the computer to pull back the timing.
i would also say to reset the computer and within 300 miles you should be back to normal. an oil change and injector cleaning may help overall they are in no way contributing to the prolblem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ford uses MAF sensors, Honda uses map sensor. Completely different systems.
Now, you and a few others are on the right track. Removing the intake would most likely allow more air to enter the engine, thus causing a "lean" condition in theroy. Only problem is that the ECU should be able to compensate for this change and adjust. It doesn't take no 300 miles for the computer to "learn" either. Reset the ECU, go drive it. Its going to "learn" pretty quickly and make the needed adjustments. My bet is resetting the ECU fixes the problem.
And btw, don't drive around with no intake at all on the car. Not intelligent by any measure.
i would also say to reset the computer and within 300 miles you should be back to normal. an oil change and injector cleaning may help overall they are in no way contributing to the prolblem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ford uses MAF sensors, Honda uses map sensor. Completely different systems.
Now, you and a few others are on the right track. Removing the intake would most likely allow more air to enter the engine, thus causing a "lean" condition in theroy. Only problem is that the ECU should be able to compensate for this change and adjust. It doesn't take no 300 miles for the computer to "learn" either. Reset the ECU, go drive it. Its going to "learn" pretty quickly and make the needed adjustments. My bet is resetting the ECU fixes the problem.
And btw, don't drive around with no intake at all on the car. Not intelligent by any measure.
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Re: (ImportRacr05)
lol.. runs it with no filter
he can try to change his oil all he wants, coolant, injectors... he got debris into his engine... say goodbye to that block in 1-2 months.
he can try to change his oil all he wants, coolant, injectors... he got debris into his engine... say goodbye to that block in 1-2 months.
#15
yes it will adapt quickly if it is stock but if it is modified than it will take a longer to relearn after resetting the computer because thecorrect paramiters for it to run optimally are farther from stock. but then i guess it is different with hondas.
you could also try a compression test if you are worried about debris in the engine
you could also try a compression test if you are worried about debris in the engine
#16
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Re: (menkio)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.. runs it with no filter
he can try to change his oil all he wants, coolant, injectors... he got debris into his engine... say goodbye to that block in 1-2 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno about that. heh.
he can try to change his oil all he wants, coolant, injectors... he got debris into his engine... say goodbye to that block in 1-2 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno about that. heh.
#17
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Re: (b16h22a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it will adapt quickly if it is stock but if it is modified than it will take a longer to relearn after resetting the computer because thecorrect paramiters for it to run optimally are farther from stock. but then i guess it is different with hondas.
you could also try a compression test if you are worried about debris in the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, not at all. Go write a letter to Hondata and tell them you think it takes the computer longer to "learn" depening on the modifications you have. They will laugh. The computer can "learn" within the first few drive cycles. Its not some magical difficult process. Most people only put basic breathing mods on thier cars anyways. With just that crap, its not like the computer needs to make some drastic changes.
How would a compression test show him if he got debris in his engine? I guess it could if he sucked up a rock or something that scored the cylinder wall,s but I find this VERY hard to believe. In fact, I think the whole "debris" arguement is crap.
you could also try a compression test if you are worried about debris in the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, not at all. Go write a letter to Hondata and tell them you think it takes the computer longer to "learn" depening on the modifications you have. They will laugh. The computer can "learn" within the first few drive cycles. Its not some magical difficult process. Most people only put basic breathing mods on thier cars anyways. With just that crap, its not like the computer needs to make some drastic changes.
How would a compression test show him if he got debris in his engine? I guess it could if he sucked up a rock or something that scored the cylinder wall,s but I find this VERY hard to believe. In fact, I think the whole "debris" arguement is crap.
#18
first off i was never claiming that this was true with hondas i said that it was true on my ford and may be true with hondas. on my explorer i usually dont get full power back until around 300 miles. so see if this is true you can hook up a scanner and check the fuel trim and spark advance after 2-3 of your drive cycles then again after 300 miles. also i don't know about but 300miles is a few drive cycles for me.
i also don't agree with the debris arguement but a compression test is a good way to tell if you did any damage
i also don't agree with the debris arguement but a compression test is a good way to tell if you did any damage
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Re: (aznpymp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznpymp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reseted ecu, oil change, fuel injector cleaned, throtle body cleaned today. still slow...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You did all the above work and didn't buy a new air filter???
You did all the above work and didn't buy a new air filter???
#22
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Re: (aznpymp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznpymp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could it be that the air filter is soaked and still kinda wet and is blocking air from coming in?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm, I kind of doubt that.. Did you feel the filter?? even if it was wet when you put it on, driving around for a little bit would dry that thing out pretty quick...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm, I kind of doubt that.. Did you feel the filter?? even if it was wet when you put it on, driving around for a little bit would dry that thing out pretty quick...