magicguy

First, I went on the track few days ago, and realized the car was shooting out massive white smoke while turning only, some people said my engine is burning coolent, but if its burning coolent, should it be constantly shooting out white/grey smoke all the way and not just turning though? what possible could it be?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kti6M...e=channel_page
^^^
a clip that shows how my car was shooting white/grey smoke on track while turning but not straight road.

Secondly, I personally drive a 00 Civic Si with B18c5 swap, with cams, etc etc. After 3 laps or so, engine oil gets really hot to approx 27x F, consider each lap takes about 1:40 time to finish. Unless my oil temp gauge's reading is off. Have a B&M oil cooler installed, is that normal? If people have no oil temp gauge, what do they check or see how hot is the engine oil is running while running on track, is there any significant? I assume if I change to an aftermarket radiator will not fix the problem since its oil Temp that gets really hot quick.

boostatic

from my 2 cents i think that it coud be that ur decelerating..under decel the car leans out and causes white smoke..i coud be wrong..but thats why it only does it on or rite b4 turns cuz thats when ur decelerating..

magicguy

^^^ thanks

anyone else?

TheEvilBain_TDB

I dont know much about a honda but on most circle track cars that we Mess with (The speed way demo and such if thats what you do alot with your honda circle track racing) there are special oil pans with a baffle and that hold more Qts of oil so your oil has more time to cool down and on turns it dosnt rush to one side causing lack of oil to the top end. Ive only had 2 civics so I dont know if they make the same sort of thing for a honda

delsolproblems

Closing the throttle usually makes it a little richer by cutting off the airflow. The increased vacuum also lowers compression a bit. It's the right idea though. Try reproducing the effect by flooring it to redline and immediately letting off the gas. Is your second question about a second car? If so, post specs on first plz.

delsolproblems

Alot of people don't watch oil temp. Keeping track of the oil temp is mostly used to figure optimum viscocity and lubrication characteristics. Water temp is more important because it surrounds the cylinders and flows better than oil, giving a better representation of running temperature. The coolant system removes heat from the whole motor, including the oil. Upgrading it will lower the oil temp but remember that you want to still achieve normal operating temperature.

magicguy

^^^
so do you mean upgrading to an aftermarket radiator will help to cool down oil temp?
how about a themostat?
If drive a 2000 Si and still using a stock half size radiator

spec of the motor is B18C5
-81.5mm usdm P73's,
-milled ITR head 0.020mm
-OEM headgasket,
-Jun 3 Camshafts,
-heatshield IM gasket,
-Walbto 255 Fuel Pump,
-B&M Oil Cooler Kit,
-Moroso oilpan,

I thought of upgrading to full size, but some people said if I upgrade to full size Rad. A/C has to be eliminated. Is that ture? So I have to an aftermarket half size Rad tho?

magicguy

up

delsolproblems

Don't upgrade the cooling system before getting some precise water temperature numbers- both current and what you're aiming for. A more efficient radiator can lower the temp of the whole motor, including the oil, but only to the temp the thermostat is set for (at theoretical best). Changing the thermostat temp affects the Vtec and shouldn't be considered lightly. Cleaning the cooling system, heat wraps and/or getting a better fan are good answers to high temps without changing standard operating temp. A full size radiator would mount where your AC condenser currently is. Of course, with enough quality fabrication anything is possible. A bigger radiator is more weight that you don't want if you can avoid it.

magicguy

up. anyone?

greebler

Well your running a half size but dual core rad. that comes with the Si, yes? If so you still have a/c and if you went with a full size, integra size, rad. then you would loose the a/c.

Upgrading to a larger radiator and or a larger oil cooler than you have which would decrease the entire system temp. You could stack one of those slim line Fluidlyne coolers over the rad. / a/c condenser thingy. +1 for some h2o gauging.