mv1015

so recently i swapped a b18b1 (ls) into my eg hatch. the ls came out of my previous integra that i got in an accident with. everything ran fine while it was in the integra. before i dropped this motor in i changed the water pump, oil pump, timing belt, tensioner pulley, head gasket (all of which are oem honda) and a set of arp head studs. i got the head resurfaced before i put it in and went through the propper torque specs/sequence with putting everything back on.

i also put in a new thermostat, temp swith (for the fan), new relay for the fan, an electric fan that flows 2,100 cfm, and a cx racing aluminum radiator. i bleed the coolant fully, the fan turns on at the proper temp. i have no check engine lights either.

now here is the problem, i will be driving the car for about 10 min and it will be at normal operating temps, then the car will gradually (very very slowly) get hotter. until a little over the half way point in the gauge.

i haven't done a compression test on the car yet, and it seems to be running fine. it takes a good ten minutes of running at normal temps then it rises up just a little bit over the half way point.

please help me out with this one.

HCivExoo

half way is the normal temp, do you have a more accurate water temp gauge? cause if the fan is comg on and the factory gauge is not getting over half way it is fine.

mv1015

when i had the motor in the teg it would always be below the little symbol in the gauge. i dont have a more accurate temp gauge yet.

also it stays below the symbol in the gauge for some time then it slowly creeps up.

HCivExoo

i know what you mean my d used to run below the symbol but after changing the thermostat a couple years back it stays around the middle of the symbol or slightly above it.

EX-T

It's probably the temp range of the thermostat that you put in there.

Also, did you fill the coolant with the heater on high and the car running? Might be a few little air pockets in the system.

If everything is turning on when it's supposed to and the gauge is holding steady once it creeps up, I wouldn't worry about it.

The thermostat that was in there to begin with was prolly 180*F and the one you replaced it with is prolly a 210*F

mv1015

Yea I bleed it with the heater on, I'll have to check out the temp on it to see where it is at.

mv1015

up

shak3yb0n3z

did you wire the fan wrong? should be pulling air thru the radiator not pushing. that would cause a problem too. i'd also try to bleed out the cooling system again. double check all hoses and make sure there are no leaks

milanored97

2 things. 1 spray the bitch with methanol injection. next buy my p75 5speed ecu. I need another 3 more posts until i can list it for sale. unless u by it.

BY IT!

itsnotfast

x2

I had a teg show similar symptoms but it was only because the thermostat that came out was bad a never let the engine get to the actual operating temp. Im guessing it was stuck open or the spring was really weak due to age. I put in a new thermostat and it would creep up until it was about half and it would stay there.

mv1015

the fan pulls air through the radiator like it should, i dont have any leaks that i can see, but i will try and bleed it again.

mv1015

i already have a p75 ecu, and the meth would just be a band aid on the problem.

thanks for your pointless post that was full of fail!

mv1015

the thermostat that i put in it is from autozone. have you ever heard about them being bad??

itsnotfast

Yes, it happens more than you would think. OEM is the way to go. I've had bad luck with almost every part I have ever gotten from autozone.

93egSLEEPER

As it was said i reccomend going and purchasing an OEM one. I bought one from schucks and it was stuck open out of the box. went to honda and have been running the same one for over 30k miles.

300whpej

i just replaced the thermostat in my eg on tuesday, and i ran one in my accord, havent had an issue yet. its pretty hit or miss with getting a defective part from anywhere, EVEN HONDA