Car rps going lower and lower then dying.
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Car rps going lower and lower then dying.
Ok so last night i was messing with my battery (long story why) but i dropped the bolt and it got stuck down somewhere anyways i had to plug and unplug the battery multipal time until i found another one that fit right but afterwards i went for a drive and everytime id stop at a light the rpms would go really low and then the car would die... So when i got home i checked the connections and tightened them up and it seemed fine then later today i installed a short ram intake and went for a drive and its doing it agian... WHY??? its pissing me of and i cant figure out why. Any suggestions?
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Re: Car rps going lower and lower then dying. (ZanderGTS)
could be your alternator going bad and not creating enough power at lower RPMS my civic lights dim when i push in the clutch and the RPMS drop.
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Re: Car rps going lower and lower then dying. (Jhonny Ricer)
i think everytime u disconnect your battery, it resets the ECU.. so it would have to learn it's idle again. what you can do is d/c your battery. wait 2 minutes, plug it back in and make sure the car is cold, start it up and don't touch nothing for 10 min.. then go take the car on the fwy and drive.. and it hsould be fine
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Re: Car rps going lower and lower then dying. (bolsaman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bolsaman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think everytime u disconnect your battery, it resets the ECU.. so it would have to learn it's idle again. what you can do is d/c your battery. wait 2 minutes, plug it back in and make sure the car is cold, start it up and don't touch nothing for 10 min.. then go take the car on the fwy and drive.. and it hsould be fine</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop talking, please.
The car does not have to "learn to idle again."
@ OP:
Make sure the TB cable is tight and try loosening the idle screw.
Though in honesty it sounds like an ignition problem due to ur battery swap. If you have a trickle charger leave the battery on that for the night, if not, before you start it up jump it but DON'T start it - leave it connected for 15 minutes or so. Then start while it's still connected, and drive away, wait for the alternator to charge the bat, it's probably low, if it's not that, it's most likely not holding a charge (bad batt).
If you're that concerned about spending money for a new one they should be able to test it for free at autozone/advance auto/pep boys, etc.
And please don't say the infamous "but it's brand-new" crap - I've seen too many batteries BRAND NEW out of the plastic that didn't hold a charge worth of ****.
Stop talking, please.
The car does not have to "learn to idle again."
@ OP:
Make sure the TB cable is tight and try loosening the idle screw.
Though in honesty it sounds like an ignition problem due to ur battery swap. If you have a trickle charger leave the battery on that for the night, if not, before you start it up jump it but DON'T start it - leave it connected for 15 minutes or so. Then start while it's still connected, and drive away, wait for the alternator to charge the bat, it's probably low, if it's not that, it's most likely not holding a charge (bad batt).
If you're that concerned about spending money for a new one they should be able to test it for free at autozone/advance auto/pep boys, etc.
And please don't say the infamous "but it's brand-new" crap - I've seen too many batteries BRAND NEW out of the plastic that didn't hold a charge worth of ****.
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Re: (ZanderGTS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZanderGTS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the replys i think im gonna try the suggested method above before giving in to more expencive problems!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't bother, your car does not forget how to idle b/c the ECU was reset due to you changing the battery.
Don't bother, your car does not forget how to idle b/c the ECU was reset due to you changing the battery.
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Re: (tealj1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tealj1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last time i had a problem simular to this my dizzy was going out...and it did. So i replaced it and everything was good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Although it's possible, the op's problem started when he changed the battery - so that'd probably be a good place to start.
Although it's possible, the op's problem started when he changed the battery - so that'd probably be a good place to start.
#10
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I didnt change the battery i just plugged and un plugged it a few times... I had almost the same problem w/ my previous car when the distributer was going out but after it died the check engine light would come on and it only happened after the car got warmed up. But it seem the battery is what set it off so idk
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Re: (ZanderGTS)
call me crazy, but whenever you d/c the battery for more than few minutes and plug it back in.. it resets the ecu. so when u start up the car the idle will fluctuate for about 10 minutes (learning it's idle again). doesn't hurt to try right?
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Re: (bolsaman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bolsaman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">call me crazy, but whenever you d/c the battery for more than few minutes and plug it back in.. it resets the ecu. so when u start up the car the idle will fluctuate for about 10 minutes (learning it's idle again). doesn't hurt to try right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're crazy.
Proper etiquette for ANY work under the hood is to disconnect the battery. Due to an incident a few years ago, I do this religiously. I've never had a car that "had to learn how to idle again" after I plugged the battery back up.
Never had the problem with my Honda, either.
The only thing I've experienced is with a lot of the newer cars you have to put like 50 miles on it before you can OBD-II scan it. Some trans's learn patterns of driving, economy, aggressive, etc. Though no, I've never had a car that forgets how to idle when you reset the ECU via unplugging the battery.
I guess all the cars I touch are just pretty ƒuckin smart.
You're crazy.
Proper etiquette for ANY work under the hood is to disconnect the battery. Due to an incident a few years ago, I do this religiously. I've never had a car that "had to learn how to idle again" after I plugged the battery back up.
Never had the problem with my Honda, either.
The only thing I've experienced is with a lot of the newer cars you have to put like 50 miles on it before you can OBD-II scan it. Some trans's learn patterns of driving, economy, aggressive, etc. Though no, I've never had a car that forgets how to idle when you reset the ECU via unplugging the battery.
I guess all the cars I touch are just pretty ƒuckin smart.
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Well idk what the hell was wroung but i d/c the battery for about ten min then let it idle for about ten more mins and then went for a drive figured it couldent hurt it and it acted a little funny a few times but then after 30 min it was all back to normal and idles in the same range as it does normally so i guess its all good for now! Im still gonna watch it and see how it acts over time.
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