JOS-EM1

Got a problem with my 99 civic, just looking for some help/advice

car will take a while before it starts, i just have to turn the key long enough before the car finally starts.Once it starts it is extremely laggy and if i floor the acceleration the response is really slow and the car even backfires sometimes. This forces me to sit in my car for like 10 min to warm up before the car is even drivable.

What's going on!?
any help would be greatly appreciated :D

fv8s

well a description on your motor/ setup would help. it sounds like your losing compression or have a huge vaccum leak. did you ever perform a compression test on the motor or check your vaccum lines/ grounds ?

93egSLEEPER

Vacuum leak or your fuel pump, fuel filter, FPR or injectors are not flowing correctly. Who knows its could be a mix of all of this.

JOS-EM1

here are some info on my car
b16a2 block with a jdm b16a head
it was converted from obd2-obd1
i havent had a compression test on the motor

im thinking it has to do with my distributor or maybe some of my temp sensor's are messed up...

JOS-EM1

once i warm up my car it runs fine, and after i drive it on the freeway for a while it drives like a dream...

fv8s

p28?

93egSLEEPER

Are you getting any CELs?

JOS-EM1

yeah im running a p28, i dont see a cel but im thinking my bulb might be gone...

fv8s

pull the cluster out and check

93egSLEEPER

Hmm this is kind of a lose lose situation. No CEL makes this a bit harder to diagnose. Have you run a bottle of FI cleaner recently? When did the problem start happening?

JOS-EM1

haven't heard of that FI Cleaner...ive had this problem since i had the car, might just scan the car 2maro morning to see what pops up

JOS-EM1

alright finnally this weekend i got time to scan the car

im throwing three codes:
P0117: Engine Coolant Temperature Low Voltage Input
P1508: Idle Air control valve
P11336&P1337: Crankshaft speed Fluctuation Sensor

1.checked my ECT sensor and its filled with oil!? wtf...
2.Don't know where the IAC is located...
3.Don't know where the CKF sensor is located...

How would i go about fixing these problems
Your guys help would be greatly appreciated

P.S. would these issues have anything to do with my vtec not engaging? please explain

JamesDMdb1

IAC valve is on back of the intake mani. (may need cleaned) use brake parts cleaner.

Crannk sensor is on the right side of the crank pulley if your looking from the driver side wheel well

JamesDMdb1

The ect valve might have something to do with vtec not engaging. Vtec should not engage when engine is cold or when you are not moving.

JOS-EM1

Bump

JOS-EM1

So basicly if I clean the sensors this might fix my problem?
At what point does your ecu switch to "safe mode"

B18C5-EH2

You say you're converted to OBD1, yet you've listed OBD2 only codes?! An OBD1 P28 would never throw codes 1336 and 1337 for CKF sensor. In fact all of the codes you listed are OBD2 specific and would not be thrown by an OBD1 P28.

Soooooo what ECU are you really running?

JOS-EM1

That's a good question, I just rechecked and it's a p2t ecu...
I know for sure i'm running a b16a obd1 head though.
Only thing I'm not completely sure about is the wiring harness.
Does this mean i am in need of a jumper harness?

JOS-EM1

TTT

mr.k24

if you ar having issues when the car its cold the problem its the coolant sensor located under the dizzy , the crank sensor its located in the oil pump , and the iac if you are using ex or dx engine harness you have to make the proper wiring for them , if you need some sensors lmk i have it

B18C5-EH2

Okay I'm at work now and have more time to look into this.

First of all you need to "fix" those CKF codes - the P1336/P1337.

The "proper" way to do it would be to make sure you've got an OBD2 spec oil pump on your block that has provisions for the CKF sensor, then make sure it's plugged in and that the wiring is good from it to your ECU. If you don't even have an OBD2 oil pump then this method would be too costly.

There is a "fix" for the lack of the CKF sensor. It is done by jumping the wires for the CYP sensor (it's in your distributor) to the CKF wires at the ECU plugs.

Click HERE for the "How To" Bypass the CKF Sensor!. Make sure you read the entire link to be sure you get the updated version.

You're running the 99-00 Civic Si ECU. With your car being a 99-00 Civic then no jumper harness should even be in place.

You can check the OBD type plugs at your ECU and on the car harness, but 99 Civic with 99 ECU = no jumper.



From top to bottom - OBD2B, OBD2A, OBD1, OBD0/pre-OBD.

So let me know what you've got (again) and that will tell me which CKF bypass instructions you'll need to follow - OBD2A, or OBD2B.



Next is that ECT sensor code...I'll be back.

B18C5-EH2

Now that code P0117:



ECT sensor (also called "TW sensor" or "Water Temp Sensor by some dealers) is loctaed under your distributor, and it's the two wire sensor, not the one wire one. If it's "full of oil" then the distributor is leaking onto it or was at one time. Test it, and change it out if necessary. They do go bad on their own sometimes, but usually oil soak does them in eventually.

Now the IACV code - THIS diagnosis will really come down to:

Year/make/model of intake manifold (what type of IACV is on it)

I'll be back with what limited info I can provide based on not knowing what type of IACV you have. I'll bet you've got a different IACV than what a 99-00 Civic Si has, in which case it's going to throw codes until you fix it. The "fix" will be determined by what sensor you actually have...

B18C5-EH2

Credit to Katman/FF Sqaud/TechNet for these diagrams:

Here's some pin outs regarding OBD2B engine swaps, wiring, ECU, and the IACV:

OBD2B swap related pin-outs:



Click HERE and scroll down to swap info and take a look at anything that says "IACV" and see if it helps.

JOS-EM1

I have a 99 civic si, Im looking into buying a P28 ecu and buying a obd2-obd1 jumper harness

Looking at the ecu's i have obd2b

JOS-EM1

I have a b16a2 block with a 2nd gen b16a head