Bond

So as stated above my car jerks back and forth when I am around 2000rpm. I can be on the gas a little bit or of the gas and it will still do it. If I hit the gas hard it will bog for a split second and stopps at anything above 3000rpm. It happens only in first and second (mostly second). So in parking lots and school zones. It makes you feel like a noob trying to drive stick .

So this is what I have done so far to fix the problem:

- new spark plug wires
- new dizzy
- newer Si tanny (replaced the slow Dx one)
- injector cleaner

I am going to go pick up some ngk spark plugs and see if that helps tomorrow.

Does anybody know what is cuasing this? Anyone have the same problem. I searched, but came up with on like 6 results. It really didn't help. What else should I replace or do to fix this.

UPDATE!!! I cleaned the IAC and yes it was dirty. When it was warmed up the car use to shake and the engine did alot too. It also had a very slight bouncing idle that made the car sound like it was still warming up (open close loop back and forth). I just started it up and WOW! What a difference. The engine is solid like a rock when at idle and the cab doesn't shake either. It runs steady and doesn't do that slow surge thing anymore. I am going to take it for a spin in a couple of minutes. Also when I use to blip the gas pedal the rpm would come down to 750 and then after a sec. sink down to around 500rpm. Not anymore! Hahaha. If anybody has any question IM me and I am sure I can help you out. I don't know if it got rid of the 2000rpm jerk, but will see when I head out. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help .


^^^^**** IT'S STILL JERKING


Modified by Bond at 5:37 PM 5/28/2005


Modified by Bond at 12:52 AM 6/24/2005

rukawa1one

sounds like u need to get the timing adjusted

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rukawa1one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like u need to get the timing adjusted</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a timing light, so I could check it. The mechanic that did my waterpump set it all though and I even got him to check it.

Jasz

I actually have the same problem but never bothered to ask about it. Guess i'll check my timing.

A-busive

If ur in 3rd and drop down into 2nd at 4or more rpm u do get a jerk

A-busive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So as stated above my car jerks back and forth when I am around 2000rpm. I can be on the gas a little bit or of the gas and it will still do it. If I hit the gas hard it will bog for a split second and stopps at anything above 3000rpm. It happens only in first and second (mostly second). So in parking lots and school zones. It makes you feel like a noob trying to drive stick .

So this is what I have done so far to fix the problem:

- new spark plug wires
- new dizzy
- newer Si tanny (replaced the slow Dx one)
- injector cleaner

I am going to go pick up some ngk spark plugs and see if that helps tomorrow.

Does anybody know what is cuasing this? Anyone have the same problem. I searched, but came up with on like 6 results. It really didn't help. What else should I replace or do to fix this.</TD></TR></TABLE>Or it could be your motor getting crunk'd

Jasz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A-busive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If ur in 3rd and drop down into 2nd at 4or more rpm u do get a jerk</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not when I downshift. I'm just driving along in 1st or 2nd (in traffic, for example) then if I touch the gas just slightly , the car will start to jerk around. Pretty anoying in a traffic jam. Now when I know it's going to happen, I just press the clutch and 'start over', if you know what I mean.

A-busive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JackSkellington &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not when I downshift. I'm just driving along in 1st or 2nd (in traffic, for example) then if I touch the gas just slightly , the car will start to jerk around. Pretty anoying in a traffic jam. Now when I know it's going to happen, I just press the clutch and 'start over', if you know what I mean.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea mine does the same thing it's not as much as the timing i believe 2nd gear as along 1st take more of a smoother acceleration, i do at times get that though but only happens as i know when u tap or hit the gas not even hard, but if u keep your foot on the gas w/o letting off u should be fine, but who know i may have to get my timing done...Hopefully this helps you out if not post it here they help alot faster http://www.humbleperformance.com

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JackSkellington &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's not when I downshift. I'm just driving along in 1st or 2nd (in traffic, for example) then if I touch the gas just slightly , the car will start to jerk around. Pretty anoying in a traffic jam. Now when I know it's going to happen, I just press the clutch and 'start over', if you know what I mean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know this all to well. It will only go away if I really hit the gas hard. If I am just taking it easy it doesn't stop. I know how to downshift and rev match and downshifting is pretty smooth and is alwas around 2000-3000rpm. So that not it, but thanks for the suggestion. My timing has to be alright, because it's been checked before and it's fine. I am going to check it tomorrow, just to make sure. It's just a real bitch and sometimes it comes so close to stalling, because you just freak out. When it happens I just push the clutch in, blip the gas pedal and let the clutch back in. Anybody else have an idea of what's cuasing this?

Oh that link needs you to be registered, but I am to busy right now.

Jasz

Out of curiosity, what octane do you usually fill your car with?

A-busive

Actually i've been meaning to ask that i use 87 unleade should i use 89 which is prem...

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A-busive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually i've been meaning to ask that i use 87 unleade should i use 89 which is prem...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should only up the octane if your engine pings. Civics run just fine on 87. If when you get on it and you here a pinging (providing that your timing is correct) then you can move up to 89 to get rid of it. If it doesn't ping then your wasting your money. I don't think it's fuel grade related though. You can try it and see what happens, but I doubt it will fix anything.

Anybody else that's got some tips or know what's wrong please post!

komat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You should only up the octane if your engine pings. Civics run just fine on 87. If when you get on it and you here a pinging (providing that your timing is correct) then you can move up to 89 to get rid of it. If it doesn't ping then your wasting your money. I don't think it's fuel grade related though. You can try it and see what happens, but I doubt it will fix anything.

Anybody else that's got some tips or know what's wrong please post!</TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong not all civics run fine on 87

Tony_EM1

sounds like a IAC problem to me.. u should check it out.. good luck ... sucks to drive ur car when she is acting up on u

Hurricane

Try a new fuel filter too.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wrong not all civics run fine on 87
</TD></TR></TABLE>

True enough. All 92-95 civic's with D series engines run fine on 87. If your talking about B16a2's and stuff then yeah.

I was thinking about getting the fuel filter done too. How hard is it to check out the IAC and what should I be looking for? Somebody said it might be the TPS. Can you buy just a TPS or do you have to get a new throttle body? They are riveted on so I don't know.

Jasz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should only up the octane if your engine pings. Civics run just fine on 87. If when you get on it and you here a pinging (providing that your timing is correct) then you can move up to 89 to get rid of it. If it doesn't ping then your wasting your money. I don't think it's fuel grade related though. You can try it and see what happens, but I doubt it will fix anything.

Anybody else that's got some tips or know what's wrong please post!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I asked because I always use the cheapest stuff around. I was just wondering if a different grade made a difference. I'm not exactly mechanically inclined

AutoXer

So has it always done this, or is it a new thing?

When I first got my honda, I noticed that it 'lugged' alot easier than any other car; and it can get pretty bad in traffic. Every other honda I've driven has done this as well. I'm guessing it has alot to do with the lack of tourqe and a relatively light flywheel (for a passenger car).

arielb1

Hey, can I give my two lengthy two cents? By the way, no check engine light or error codes. I purchased an Actron Sensor Testing tool from Ebay for $40 for my testing.

I have a 96 Civic doing somewhat the exact same thing. It bogs down in 1st and 2nd only.

I cant recall when the problem started. After I purchased my EX D16Y8, I replaced the water pump, timing belt, seals and other stuff to resolve issues including engine overheating. Regardless, I have the problem now.

This one has me stumped. Below is what I have tried with no resolution.

1. Tried various fuel additive including Chevron. Tried various injector cleaners too.

2. Tried higher octane gas..did not resolve it.

3. Changed wires, spark plugs and rotor...dont think I have to change distributor (dizzy).

4. Changed fuel filter...becareful changing yours. A crows feet tool from Craftsmans (looks like wrenches) is needed to remove fuel filter and watch out for the order of washers. I mean pay attention to the order of the parts as they come off.

5. Tested air temperature sensor. It tested great. I used a blow dryer to test it.

6. Learned and checked my timing with professional mechanic advising. Timing good. Dont forget to loop ecu while testing.

My plan of attack below in order below

Clean out throttle body with Throttle body cleaner (STP brand). Careful not to use carb cleaner since I understand it can affect 02 sensors.

Lubricate linkages along accelerator pedal along to the throttle body.

Intake Air Control Valve (IACV) - I will clean this out thoroughly. There are some great writeups if you are interested. Search the archives under cleaning IACV.

Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) - I plan to test this Saturday or Sunday. With the "Good Guys" here on H-T, I was told this cannot be my problem since it only occurs in 1st and 2nd. However, maybe it is because in higher speeds, I cannot feel the problem. Regardless, I will test TPS with my Actron tool as well. I have learned the TPS is riveted to the throttle body. It can be replace by using a dremel to etch the rivet for a flat head screwdriver. However, it needs to be calibrated back with the throttle body. With the Actron tool, it can test with TPS on engine...as I read.

02 sensors - There are two, I was told; on exhaust manifold and along the muffler. I will test both as well using my Actron tool and a propane torch.

MAP sensor or Mass air flow sensor - Donno is I need to go there.

Last, recheck my timing belt. Could it be I installed it incorrectly? If I did, wouldn't I feel this in all gears?

My disclosure. I am not a mechanic, although I know my way around an engine. Anyone have thoughts? There is a $20 for you if your suggestion fixes my problem. This is a pain, however, I have learned plenty which no one can take away from me. Thanks all for helping me learn.

Thanks again...Ariel

Ministry

wow I've got the same exact problem in my civic, and I don't have a D series or a B series. It think it got worse after I removed my balancer shaft belt, but that might just be a coincindence. At narrow throttle angles and low RPMs, my car jerks back and forth like a mother bitch. 8lb flywheel probably doesn't help.

I think it might actually be related to fuel pressure...I don't really know. My car also mysteriously dies about once every couple of days. It refuses to start back up, I let it sit for a minute, and then it starts up and runs just fine. I wonder if it could be related to my ECU. I would love to get rid of this annoyance. I'm getting tired of being forced to keep RPMs around 3000.

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dreamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 8lb flywheel probably doesn't help.

I would love to get rid of this annoyance. I'm getting tired of being forced to keep RPMs around 3000. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The only way would be to put a heavier flywheel in. The flywheel keeps the motor rotating because of the mass. A heavier one spins up slower, but will keep the motor running smoother when in traffic. You trade performace for drivability with a lighter flywheel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dreamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My car also mysteriously dies about once every couple of days. It refuses to start back up, I let it sit for a minute, and then it starts up and runs just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like the main relay.

5-lugHatch

Try the Idle Air control Valve (IAC)

I had this same problem and it ended up being that

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5-lugHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try the Idle Air control Valve (IAC)

I had this same problem and it ended up being that </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you do with it? Replace it or clean it out?

turboman

It's the motor mounts. Sounds like one might be shot. If you take it out of gear the jerking stops right?

basicaly the motor is bouncing off the worn rubber mount.

Ministry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like the main relay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when the car dies, it doesn't completely cut off. It just kinda sputters and then gives up. I'll go to start it and it'll 'try' to start if you know what I mean - I can hear the cylinders firing, but it sputters and dies at like 500 rpm. I just let it sit for a minute and then its better. I would expect a bad relay to cut off fuel completely... maybe it is cutting off and there is just some fuel in the lines.

whatever the case, I'll go home and check the relay tonight, possibly resolder it a bit. thanks for the idea