Car clicking fast and light dims when starting
07-31-2007, 10:53 AM
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Car clicking fast and light dims when starting
The cluster dims a bit and there's a fast clicking noise while I'm holding the key to turn on the car. Could it be the alternator,starter,battery?
07-31-2007, 10:54 AM
#2
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Re: Car clicking fast and light dims when starting (hatching)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatching »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cluster dims a bit and there's a fast clicking noise while I'm holding the key to turn on the car. Could it be the alternator,starter,battery?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm...right know it sounds like you battery, but the alternator can be the cause as well. if all possible you should have both tested.
hmmm...right know it sounds like you battery, but the alternator can be the cause as well. if all possible you should have both tested.
07-31-2007, 10:57 AM
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Re: Car clicking fast and light dims when starting (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hmmm...right know it sounds like you battery, but the alternator can be the cause as well. if all possible you should have both tested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Second that -^ Your car isn't getting sufficient juice to turn her over. Advanced Auto/ Auto Zone test alternators and batteries around me, I know they have a mobile tester they can roll out to your car to test the battery, but the alternator will have to be removed to put on their tester, inside the store.
hmmm...right know it sounds like you battery, but the alternator can be the cause as well. if all possible you should have both tested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Second that -^ Your car isn't getting sufficient juice to turn her over. Advanced Auto/ Auto Zone test alternators and batteries around me, I know they have a mobile tester they can roll out to your car to test the battery, but the alternator will have to be removed to put on their tester, inside the store.
07-31-2007, 11:05 AM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Car clicking fast and light dims when starting (Frosty_Sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frosty_Sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Second that -^ Your car isn't getting sufficient juice to turn her over. Advanced Auto/ Auto Zone test alternators and batteries around me, I know they have a mobile tester they can roll out to your car to test the battery, but the alternator will have to be removed to put on their tester, inside the store. </TD></TR></TABLE>
he won't necessary have to move the alternator. and i should have stated this earlier, but he has a few options.
you can have the battery tested first, being that it is the easiest to remove and install. the store is going to try to charge the battery first, if it won't take the charge then you need a new one anyway whether you have a good/bad alternator.
with the new/recharged battery you can install it, grab a voltage meter, start the car, and put the leads of the meter onto the battery. it should read between 14-12 volts. if it's under or dropping you have a bad alternator.
now if you don't have a meter, you can A) hurry install it a drive fast to the part store to have the alternator tested or B) install the battery, start the car and disconnect the + cable (i believe). if the car shuts of, you have a bad alternator. if it stays on, it was your battery.
though the disconnecting of the cable is not recommended, it is effective way to test.
Second that -^ Your car isn't getting sufficient juice to turn her over. Advanced Auto/ Auto Zone test alternators and batteries around me, I know they have a mobile tester they can roll out to your car to test the battery, but the alternator will have to be removed to put on their tester, inside the store. </TD></TR></TABLE>
he won't necessary have to move the alternator. and i should have stated this earlier, but he has a few options.
you can have the battery tested first, being that it is the easiest to remove and install. the store is going to try to charge the battery first, if it won't take the charge then you need a new one anyway whether you have a good/bad alternator.
with the new/recharged battery you can install it, grab a voltage meter, start the car, and put the leads of the meter onto the battery. it should read between 14-12 volts. if it's under or dropping you have a bad alternator.
now if you don't have a meter, you can A) hurry install it a drive fast to the part store to have the alternator tested or B) install the battery, start the car and disconnect the + cable (i believe). if the car shuts of, you have a bad alternator. if it stays on, it was your battery.
though the disconnecting of the cable is not recommended, it is effective way to test.
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