koulninja

Specs: 1995 civic dx coupe

So my oil drain plug is stuck in the oil pan. I keep turning it but it won't come off, it just keeps turning. Now I bought a new oil pan and gasket. Theres a pipe between the exhaust manifold and exhaust itself that needs to be removed in order to get to the oil pan. Problem is the nuts holding that curved pipe is rusted and one nut is rusted completely.

Should I just cut the dang things off and replace the the nuts and bolts? Or is there an easier way to do this. I hate MN winters its like cancer for cars.

appelsos

try pb blaster, let it soak in for a day or so. if you still cant get the nuts off even with a breaker bar, you could try those damaged bolt remover sockets. they essentially cut into the bolt itself to get it off- they've always worked great for me.


if not, yes, cut the bolts off at the stud and buy new ones.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You always heat up exhaust bolts before removing them when you live in the rust belt. Buy a $30 MAPP gas torch. It'll be the best $30 ever spent. I usually hit the bolts with a bit of heat for a while and they come off like butter.

koulninja

Yea I got the old oil pan out and the new one in but man did I get greased up. It was like I went swimming in a pool of oil. Fun...lol.

I had to remove the bolts connected to the catalytic converter and take the exhaust manifold off. That way I was able to drop the old oil pan out. I put some liquid gasket on the oil pan and gasket and it was good to go.

But now a new problem. Radiator is old and leaking so needs to get replaced. Going to the auto store tomorrow to pick me up a new one plus new hoses. One problem fixed then a new one arrives. Go figure...

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You really shouldn't put any liquid gasket all the way around the oil pan and oil pan gasket. You've just sealed that motor shut lol.

turbodcxbro

iTrader: (1)

I always use a light coat of hondabond on the oil pan gaskets, keeps em from seeping oil like they are notorious for. Never a problem here..