thehatchninja

I had it in the shop a while ago for the same reason. They said they replaced the clutch m/c and it ran fine for a while, but then it started doing it again...in the meantime my clutch went out.
So i replaced the clutch and flywheel, and it worked fine again for a while. Then the pedal started sinking to the floor sometimes, but would work fine again when i pulled it out.
Then it sank to the floor and stayed there....since then i've replaced the s/c....and bench bled the m/c...and bled the system repeatedly. but the pedal still won't build any pressure. When i pump the pedal with everything closed it builds pressure a little bit if i keep pumping the pressure just goes away, and if i press the pedal down fast it has pressure for a little bit too...but it quickly fades. If i press the pedal down slow it doesn't have any pressure at all. help me out.

Sliced Beard

have you adjusted the pushrod for tyhe clutch m/c within factory spec
if you do not know how and i will write down a thorough write up for you

thehatchninja

no i haven't adjusted the pushrod at all, could that be the problem?...if you did a write up that would be awesome...cause i'm stuck.

thehatchninja

a guy on this post said the clutch mc might have an internal leak and be leaking back into the resevoir...here's a link

https://honda-tech.com/zero...87039

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a guy on this post...</TD></TR></TABLE>That was me... When this happens it's just like a bad brake master cylinder; the piston seals leak. If anything leaks OUT, it's a different problem. So first you want to look for brake fluid on the ground, or coming thru the firewall by the pedal.

When it happens to your brakes, your pedal will sink while your foot is on the brakes, like at a red light. The pedal will be OK when you first hit the brakes, but it'll sink slowly & smoothly when you try to hold the brakes.

When it happens to your clutch, you hold the pedal down to disengage the clutch. It'll slowly ENGAGE as you hold down the pedal.

Either way, you can try bleeding the brakes/clutch first. That's cheap & easy, but it doesn't always help.

thehatchninja

bro i have bled that thing so f'n much it got to a point where i was reusing the brake fluid because it was so clean.
In light of what i read earlier i went out to my car and pumped the clutch pedal once fast while looking at the resevoir (sp?)...i noticed a surge in the resv. and the fluid level went up a bit. So more fluid was definitely going into the res. Do you think i need a new M/C?

thanks in advance.

Sliced Beard

i would think that you would either need a new m/c or your m/c pushrod/piston is extending too far and letting the fluid leak back into the resivior

but honestly it sounds like you have a faulty m/c

to adjust the clutch m/c is really simple

1.loosen the locknut on the clutch switch(sensor for the starter/ignition system) until it no longer touches the pedal, then loosen the locknut on the clutch pushrod. Turn the pushrod to adjust the pedal height and stroke, then tighten the locknut.
(the factory specified pedal height for a civic and integra is 6 and 1/2 inches)

2.turn the switch/bolt clockwise until it contacts the pedal arm, then turn it an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. Tighten the locknut.

3. adjust the starter interlock switch (refer to the according steps which are outlined)

adjust the pedal freeplay

1.loosen the locknut on the clutch pushrod. then back off the pushrod until the pedal has the specified amount of freeplay (1/2 to 3/4 inches)

starter interlock switch adjustment

1. loosen the locknut and screw in until the switch is fully depressed when the clutch pedal is completely to the floor.


that is the correct way to adjust the pushrod/pedal to factory specifications
by doing this, it sets the clutch m/c up correctly to function properly

enjoy your good twenty minutes of work

thehatchninja

ok...the nut is as far out on the pushrod as possible on my MC....in my thinking it would get the most pressure that way.....and extend as far as possible...but you're saying it's possible that it's extended too far and is letting fluid past that way. That makes more sense since it's supposed to be a new MC. I'll try to adjust it.

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bro i have bled that thing so f'n much it got to a point where i was reusing the brake fluid because it was so clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, then you've already eliminated that possibility. When my brake MC went, bleeding didn't do any good, but I've heard some people claim it fixed theirs...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In light of what i read earlier i went out to my car and pumped the clutch pedal once fast while looking at the resevoir (sp?)...i noticed a surge in the resv. and the fluid level went up a bit. So more fluid was definitely going into the res. Do you think i need a new M/C?</TD></TR></TABLE>Make sure the piston rod & pedal height are all adjusted properly like dirtyt463 says. There IS an opening that has to get uncovered by the piston, that allows pressure to equalize & lets the clutch adjust itself as it wears. So there's supposed to be a bit of surge in the reservoir. But that has to happen in the right place, at the top of the pedal stroke.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... since it's supposed to be a new MC. I'll try to adjust it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's always possible that your new(?) MC is defective, but you should have everything clean & adjusted properly first.

thehatchninja

TRUE....i'm going to adjust it, then try replacing it. I'll keep ya posted. But i have 3 mid-term exams and two papers between now and then.

PEACE

thehatchninja

UPDATE: i figured it was the MC...so i took it to the shop that did it the first time...surprisingly it was a faulty MC....only thing i paid was towing $22 because i have AAA

runs great...so far