transpar_nt

I just finished installing a b18b into my civic. I have a few small tasks left to do, and bleeding the clutch is one of them. I opened the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and let all of the old (black) fluid out while making sure to keep the master cylinder filled. Once it came out clear and smooth (no bubbles) I put a tight hose on the nipple and stuck the other end into the bottom of the brake fluid bottle. Then closed the CMC lid and pumped the pedal a few times expecting it to build up pressure. After 5 or 6 pumps I hear a gurgling sound, check the MC and found out it's drained.

Basically, I'm an idiot and need some help . Once I get it all bled again to get out all of the air I just sucked in, what do I do exactly? Close the bleeder valve, and then pump the pedal while making sure to keep the MC full?

cxSHOE

o. the key is to remember not to let the fluid rum out and keep it full.
1. open the resouvior lid and fill it to the top
2. keep the top off, then open bleeder about 1/2 to 1 turn. put the hose on the nipple.
3. this is a one man job. listen carefully, once the nipple is open and the resouvior is full, push the clutch pedal to the floor >> and leave it there, then close the nipple, then pull the clutch pedal up.
4. i would do it like 6 times, then on the last one, keep the pedal on the floor, close the nipple , pull the pedal up, then finally put the top back on the resouvior. then start the car and see how it feels. and remember not to tighten the nipple too tight.

i have done it this way about 5 different times, never a leak and never a problem.

nighttrain33

In order to build up pressure, you need to have the bleeder valve closed. It is easier if you have 2 people for it, though as cxshoe said, 1 person can do it. One to pump the pedal, and one to open/close the bleeder valve in between pumps.

-Shane

transpar_nt

Thanks for the help guys, but if I do what you said (cxshoe), how does it build up pressure if the valve needs to be closed? Cuz according to what you said the valve is open every time the pedal is depressed...

Do I just do what cxshoe said, and then at the end just pump the pedal a few more times with everything tightened and closed?

nighttrain33

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by transpar_nt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the help guys, but if I do what you said (cxshoe), how does it build up pressure if the valve needs to be closed? Cuz according to what you said the valve is open every time the pedal is depressed...

Do I just do what cxshoe said, and then at the end just pump the pedal a few more times with everything tightened and closed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. The first few times when the bleeder is open, that is what gets the air out of the system. Then when you close it when the system is bled, and pump the pedal, that is when the pressure is built back up.

-Shane

litterbox

Close the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Leave the CMC cap OFF. Pump it 5 times slowly, then on the 5th pump HOLD the pedal in and then open the bleeder valve and fluid will spray out like a Peter North *** shot. Then close it quickly. Repeat.

transpar_nt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Close the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Leave the CMC cap OFF. Pump it 5 times slowly, then on the 5th pump HOLD the pedal in and then open the bleeder valve and fluid will spray out like a Peter North *** shot. Then close it quickly. Repeat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
check. Damn, all 3 of you guys are people I pay attention to when you post. Thanks for not bastardizing me with the nub comments

litterbox

Just be careful not to get splooged on.

cxSHOE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by transpar_nt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the help guys, but if I do what you said (cxshoe), how does it build up pressure if the valve needs to be closed? Cuz according to what you said the valve is open every time the pedal is depressed...

Do I just do what cxshoe said, and then at the end just pump the pedal a few more times with everything tightened and closed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the pressure is built up once the nipple is closed and the top is put on and you push down on the clutch pedal.. pressure because there are no openings.

you dont built pressure when your bleeding, your just pushing out the air, hence the reason why when the nipple is open and you push down on your clutch pedal the pedal will stay down &gt;&gt;no pressure. then as you close the nipple, and you pull the pedal back up it recirculates the fluid. you will only get pressure once the nipple and the resouvoir top is closed. if you leave the top open you will make a mess of your engine and you wont have enough pressure unless you push it down a couple of times.

my way is the one man job. if you are having your friend help you. i do it the same way with with a friend helping, but another way is like to have it spit out as litterbox mentions above..."close the nipple push on the clutch pedal, have friend release then close nipple, then you pull the clutch pedal up... i have found the "spit" method tends to let the hose on the nipple come off, and just make a mess of everything. but its up to you.

AutoXer

This is what I do for my one man brake bleed jobs, you may want to try it for this as well:

transpar_nt

Alright. I've done everything I was told to do. The system is bled, with only clear smooth fluid coming out of the bleeder valve. I then tightened the valve, made sure the CMC was topped up, and pumped the clutch pedal 100 times. It's still really easy to press down with my foot and it feels like its engaging at about 75 or 80% down. How many times do I need to pump?

Luserkid

I do the one man thing how AutoXer has it. But i leave it open and just pump all the air out. Pumping about 5 times then check the CMC, repeat about 3 times and then close and check the pressure. But majority of the time i make my sister come outside and pump the clutch (although everytime i have to tell her the brake isnt the clutch pedal).

If your not getting pressure after you finished you might have a small leak somewhere. Also if its a stock clutch that came with the swap it could be because the PP has been used. Another thing is your pedal adjustment. You could adjust it to however height you want it. Try driving around as is and see if you like it or not. If not then you could change the pedal height.

cxSHOE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by transpar_nt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright. I've done everything I was told to do. The system is bled, with only clear smooth fluid coming out of the bleeder valve. I then tightened the valve, made sure the CMC was topped up, and pumped the clutch pedal 100 times. It's still really easy to press down with my foot and it feels like its engaging at about 75 or 80% down. How many times do I need to pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>


if you did everything correctly, and its still bad , your clutch cylinder may be bad. i would do it again... i know its not the best answer but you could still have air. for example i spent 3 hours bleeding my brakes once, and i still had a brake pedal that didnt feel right.. come to find i still had air in my lines even after using up two large containers of brake fluid...its just one of those things that just requires extra attention and trial and error to fix.

transpar_nt

I don't know what the problem is exactly. I'm using the EG's clutch MC and SC, and all of the hoses/lines. Basically everything about the clutch activation is from the civic (which worked perfectly fine and did not leak before the swap). I just finished pumping it another 200 times. The pressure is definitely building, but much slower than I think it should. I'll check all of my connections over...

litterbox

Look closely. Are there any air bubbles seeping out of the nipple at anytime?

transpar_nt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look closely. Are there any air bubbles seeping out of the nipple at anytime? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think so. I just realized something after looking on hasport's website (I'm using their conversion kit to run a cable tranny in my eg). Quoted:

Now install the transmission using the Hasport conversion transmission mount. Then attach the soft hydraulic line and bleed the system. When bleeding the clutch, bleed the line from the fluid input line at the slave cylinder, not from the factory bleeder. Next attach the ground cable using the bolt and lock nut provided.

When they say the fluid input line on the sc, is that the hardline that connects to it? I don't see how that is possible...

transpar_nt

Just as a glee-filled sidenote: The engine started up first try!!! I find that totally kickass.

transpar_nt

I just called Hasport (talked to James ?) and he told me that it needs to be bled from the end of the hardline that connects to the slave "because it is the lowest piece in the system." One problem, IT ISN'T!!! The bleed valve is still the lowest point on the whole system. Has ANYONE installed the hasport kit before? Any help with the clutch-bleeding-pissing-me-off-only-thing-left-to-do-on-my-swap pile of ****?

transpar_nt

I'm really pissed off right now, and really need some insight from anyone. Please help me.

transpar_nt

I know the pressure plate and clutch are good, because I bought the entire car from a friend and it all worked great before the engine was removed.

transpar_nt

When I push the throwout arm down (to engage the clutch) I can hear a bit of a squishing sound. I thought it might be where the plunger/rod pushes into the slave so I pulled the dust boot up to have a look. When I push the arm down and look at the plunger going in it looks like there is a gap around it, but its completely dry so there's no fluid coming out.

This thread is getting a lot of views but nobody is replying. For the love of God please HELP ME!!!

SVOboy

Bump for some help

Defile

you deffinately have to bleed from the end of the system or you'll never get out all the air in the system. Basically where your bleed from is getting out the air from the MS to where your bleed valve is, but whats ahead of the bleed valve is just sitting there. Also, you may wanna just take off the clutch MS and hand bleed it since you had lost the bleed on it before when you ran out of fluid and pumped air into the system. Then reinstall and redo the bleed proccess from the end of the system.

transpar_nt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Defile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you deffinately have to bleed from the end of the system or you'll never get out all the air in the system. Basically where your bleed from is getting out the air from the MS to where your bleed valve is, but whats ahead of the bleed valve is just sitting there. Also, you may wanna just take off the clutch MS and hand bleed it since you had lost the bleed on it before when you ran out of fluid and pumped air into the system. Then reinstall and redo the bleed proccess from the end of the system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean remove the MS and bench bleed it? I didn't know that needed to be done. I'll do that then re-bleed the entire system again and update the situation...

transpar_nt

Is it possible I caused a leak on a flared hardline by tightening it too much?