Naiyasin

Can you handle my vtec d16z6? 'Cuz I can't. I'm in need of some upgrades...

I currently have...

AEM fuel rail
injen full ram intake
unorthodox underdrive pully
DC 4-1 headers
2 3/4 inch piping, with removed cat
Ractive oversized plug wires
Performance distributor
Throttle body spacer (no way right?) Nothing special, I know...

That being said... I'm looking for other upgrades to add to my del slow, (without swapping the engine) and need help. I realize D series are Hondas 'commuter car' and aren't worth a hoot N-A.
Just seeking my next upgrade, bolt on or internal. Let me know what would be my next upgrade and why.

P.S. Right. I'm a nub. All bolt on mods. Just looking to learn and welcome any info.

Thanks,



Naiyasin

speedooo

boost, lots of it.

Naiyasin

Werd. What internals do you suggest replacing to boost? And. In what order?

Ty. Naiyasin.

MHDesigns

yep. save up and boost it.

forcefedferio

Internal engine work only necessary depending on your power goal. What kind of power would you like to be making?

Naiyasin

Right. Does that require rebuilding internals? Cams, valves, pistons, rockers, etc? Would be content with 230hp. I would guess that I'm somewhere around 160hp?

Naiyasin

230hp+ would be ideal. Any ideas force?

forcefedferio

You are actually much, much lower than 160hp currently.

you can make right around 210whp (wheel horsepower) reliably on a small turbo such as a 14b or t25 and right around 10psi of boost which would not require any type of aftermarket MAP sensor (honda map sensors can only read 11.7 psi of positive manifold pressure IIRC) WHat you would need is bigger injectors which 450cc DSM injectors work great, a fuel pump which i recommend a walboro 255lph fuel pump and you will also need to look around and find someone to tune your car, which you will need to have your ECU chipped and burned with software. other than that it's just researching turbo parts.

DON'T GO CHEAP....that means if your little mouse pointer is getting ready to click the url bar so you can type www.ebay.com just save your self the hassle and money and instead go out, turn your car on, and beat it off rev limiter until it tanks itself. Most chinese turbo kit parts you have to modify to even kind of be able to use, and the turbos are complete garbage.

Naiyasin

Bigger injectors, fuel pump, good brand turbo kit, and tuned ecu is basically all is needed to boost? Or will there need to be replaced performance parts in addition to those? Or will stock internals be fine running low psi like 10?

And... I assume you mean chipped for air to fuel ratio and psi? Not sure.

Thanks also for any info.

novaksaotome

well probably if you want to go boost and still want to have a reliable engine you should seriously think about getting somme good rods, you can keep thesame pistons cause the compression its about 9.1:1. I've heard tho, about guys going turbo with stock internals at around 12 psi with no mayor problems. So if you think about upgrading internals go for forged rods good piston rings and a good head gasket, that should be cheap and will save you a lot of trouble later on with the turbo kit. I'm actually swapin in the same engine on my EJ9 that comes with a crappy D14A4, so i'm focusing on good internals now to go turbo when i have the money for it...

Bwill9886

Forcefedferio gave you very good advice. He told you the basics of what you need, but there are of course a few more things you'll want to get. Its up to you to do the research and piece together a setup.

There are quite a few people running stock internals in a D and making around 210whp no problem. Will it be as long lasting as it would be sans-turbo? No. But thats the price you pay to make more power on an engine not designed for a turbo. As long as your engine is in good shape, and not had the **** beat out of it already, you'll be fine.

Just make sure you spend the money to keep it maintained and you should have a very reliable build. Don't worry too much about internals unless you are shooting for more than 230whp or so. As novaksaotome mentioned, the rods are the first weak link you gotta worry about at that point.