Turbocharga

Hello all, I've posted before that I've had issues with my car starting. I haven't had time to work on it, but finally today I was able to.

The problem is that the car has to have the gas pushed in order to start. Here is what I have replaced so far, some was for tune up and others were troubleshooting.

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel rail, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter, seafoam, additive in tank, and drained tank after 2 weeks.

So I figured since none of this fixed my issue maybe the timing was off. I apologize beforehand making this thread, it's just that the information is so vague that I've become pretty lost.

So I have set the crank pulley to the fourth mark (- - - -) with the two alignment marks.




Now should my cam gear be like - UP - ?
Because those two grooves are parallel with the head, but instead UP is pointing DOWN towards the ground.

I've tried to find as much info as I could on the subject of the cam being 180 degrees off, and if it will run like this, and so on.
I even have a Chilton manual, but it's still confusing. most of the info I found is with people having the crank pulley off, and I don't have the tools to do that right now.

GIZZ - EXV

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

^Correct, you have to remember the crankshaft rotates twice for every one rotation of the camshaft.

JRCivic1

As stated above, you simply have to rotate the crank pulley one full revolution and you will see that the cam pulley will line up with the head casting and the "UP" spoke will be facing upward. Understand that if you actually had the engine 180' out of mechanical time, it would not run... not require some throttle input to start... NOT RUN. The visual check for this (although as I have already stated, it isn't your problem and will appear correct when you look) is to remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor button is pointed... it should be pointed at the #1 plug wire on the cap. If it is pointed at the #3 plug wire, you are actually 180' out of mechanical time. The fix would be to remove the distributor, remove the pin lock circlip, remove the pin, rotate the cam indexing tabs one half turn (180'), re-install the pin and locking circlip and bolt the distributor back on to the engine. You would now be back in proper ignition time.

civicservice

Put away that parts cannon, partner. Time to diagnose the problem.

These are the possible sources of your problem:

- fuel
- air
- spark
- mechanical timing
- electrical timing
- exhaust
- compression

It turns out that your symptoms match symptoms I've seen before, and the direction lies toward air.

Specifically, your idle air control valve determines how much air the engine receives when cranking. You can bypass this valve by opening the throttle, which is what you saw.

Over time, the valve becomes clogged with carbon build-up and no longer rotates when commanded to do so. I found very few descriptions of how to diagnose this problem, but I did come up with two of my own:

1. as you found out, apply accelerator when starting;
2. unplug the brake booster, then start.

The idea behind 2 is to create a temporary vacuum leak that will allow air in when the engine is tarted and the IAC valve is closed.

You can also try tapping on the IAC gently with the handle of a screwdriver while cranking, which was the best diagnostic I found. Unfortunately, it won't always work.

I was able to remove my IAC, clean it carefully, then put it back in the car. Problem solved.

There may be other issues as well with this engine, but 180-timing advance almost certainly isn't the problem based on what you're seeing.

Turbocharga

Okay civicservice, your diagnosing method by taking the hose from the brake booster off worked. However the car would seem as though it was wide open then stall, and shoot white smoke out of the nipple where the hose was. This was all I had time for didn't check distributor. The guy I bought it from said it overheated on him (which was 5 years ago) , I'm not totally sure on this because the gauge cluster is kinda wonky. I haven't had any signs of BHG compression was 150 all the way. I'm just trying to figure out the best decision to make here, I'm not really in a rush to fix this thing, and I know I'd like to swap in a D16. My local pull-a-part has mostly D16's, and I would rather not buy a new dizzy for a D15B7. With the core exchange I would be looking at $200 for a D16 does this sound like a good deal? Also my D15 is going to need a new clutch soon, so even better reason to swap.

civicservice

I would try my best to get the car running with what it's got. Cleaning the IAC shouldn't require any parts and only uses throttle body cleaner, a shop towel, a toothbrush, and plenty of elbow grease.

If you throw in a new engine, there might be other unresolved gremlins that will cause you to chase your tail because you didn't start from a known good position.

mk378

Once started and moving in gear, does it drive OK? If it is only that it will stall out when trying to start or idle without pressing the gas, that is usually the IACV. Also check the TPS with a voltmeter.

Turbocharga

So here's what happens, cold starting I absolutely have to press on the gas if I let it warm up and cut it off, it will start right back up idles fine, but will occasionally get rough and stall.. I cleaned the IACV today, and this did not solve the problem. I'm thinking that the TPS sensor or distributor is my problem, but not entirely sure. I recorded a video if anyone wants to take a listen. The oil light is on and I'm not sure why, it did flicker when I first got it, but now its on solid, also the oil has been changed. Don't mind the rattling noise the cat isn't bolted up because I don't have a pipe on the car. At 17 sec I am pushing the pedal 50% and the car revving is a delayed effect

mk378

Oil light on is a big deal, unless it is just that the switch is bad. Oil pressure should be investigated.

It won't run properly with open exhaust. Make a lot of noise yes, but not fast.

Have you done a test drive? Revving up in neutral really doesn't prove much one way or another.

tony_2018

Talking about cams







































but see images of the crank at TDC. hondatech 2018....

Turbocharga

I've never had to time an engine before, not here claiming to be a mechanic.

I fixed my issue, (partially), I pulled the injectors, swapped them with some old ones I had, and sprayed the fuel rail with some carb cleaner. The car started right up, idled, and revved smoothly again. However once it got warm some steam was coming out of the exhaust side so it looks like I have a leaky HG which could have been causing other issues while trying to diagnose the fuel problem. I appreciate everyone for their input.

holmesnmanny

you won't know for sure unless you compression test it