Caliper sticking
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Caliper sticking
Last weekend while changing tires for the track, I noticed that the front passenger wheel didn't move freely. I'm thinking that that caliper is sticking. I would have checked while I was working on it, but it was a torential downpour and there were tornado warnings, so I was in a hurry. Is there anything else that it could be besides the caliper?
Is it easy to rebuild the caliper, or should I just get a reman one? I've rebuilt the rear wheel cylenders before, but I was checking the manual, and it says that you need 4 different types of grease (rubber, silicone, sealing and something else) is that really necessary? It just seems a little involved.
If it is the caliper, will rebuilding fix it if it's sticking, or could something else be wrong that I would have to possibly buy a new one anyway?
Thanks for the help!
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Re: Caliper sticking (wilsel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wilsel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would buy a used or reman. I've had the same problem, and it was the caliper. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I was thinking that, but it's only 4 parts and the kit is $20. I was just wondering if I can use Moly or Marine grease for everything, or do I have to get all the different types of lube specified in the service manual?
Also, I'm assuming that if I open up the caliper, would I be able to tell if it can be sucessfully rebuilt or not? What can cause the piston to stick?
Yeah, I was thinking that, but it's only 4 parts and the kit is $20. I was just wondering if I can use Moly or Marine grease for everything, or do I have to get all the different types of lube specified in the service manual?
Also, I'm assuming that if I open up the caliper, would I be able to tell if it can be sucessfully rebuilt or not? What can cause the piston to stick?
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Re: Caliper sticking (EX_AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, I'm assuming that if I open up the caliper, would I be able to tell if it can be sucessfully rebuilt or not? What can cause the piston to stick?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not the piston that's sticking it's the caliper sliders (slider bolts) that hold the caliper on the hub assembly. When you remove the caliper, the bolts you usually take out should be cleaned and lubricated each time your brake pads are changed or once a year if you store your car. If this isn't done they will not slide properly and cause the caliper to stick and seize. You can try to clean and lube those bolts now but at this point you're probably better off replacing the whole caliper since that is the quickest easiest way to go.
The only time you'd need to rebuild your caliper is if it was leaking and had bad seals internally.
Also, I'm assuming that if I open up the caliper, would I be able to tell if it can be sucessfully rebuilt or not? What can cause the piston to stick?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not the piston that's sticking it's the caliper sliders (slider bolts) that hold the caliper on the hub assembly. When you remove the caliper, the bolts you usually take out should be cleaned and lubricated each time your brake pads are changed or once a year if you store your car. If this isn't done they will not slide properly and cause the caliper to stick and seize. You can try to clean and lube those bolts now but at this point you're probably better off replacing the whole caliper since that is the quickest easiest way to go.
The only time you'd need to rebuild your caliper is if it was leaking and had bad seals internally.
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Re: Caliper sticking (00Red_SiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's not the piston that's sticking it's the caliper sliders (slider bolts) that hold the caliper on the hub assembly. When you remove the caliper, the bolts you usually take out should be cleaned and lubricated each time your brake pads are changed or once a year if you store your car. If this isn't done they will not slide properly and cause the caliper to stick and seize. You can try to clean and lube those bolts now but at this point you're probably better off replacing the whole caliper since that is the quickest easiest way to go.
The only time you'd need to rebuild your caliper is if it was leaking and had bad seals internally.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what I was thinking. I've had this happen to me before and I fixed it with $4 caliper grease and just regreased my caliper guide pins. IMPORTANT: You have to use specific caliper grease since normal grease isn't rated very high in temperature.
It's not the piston that's sticking it's the caliper sliders (slider bolts) that hold the caliper on the hub assembly. When you remove the caliper, the bolts you usually take out should be cleaned and lubricated each time your brake pads are changed or once a year if you store your car. If this isn't done they will not slide properly and cause the caliper to stick and seize. You can try to clean and lube those bolts now but at this point you're probably better off replacing the whole caliper since that is the quickest easiest way to go.
The only time you'd need to rebuild your caliper is if it was leaking and had bad seals internally.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what I was thinking. I've had this happen to me before and I fixed it with $4 caliper grease and just regreased my caliper guide pins. IMPORTANT: You have to use specific caliper grease since normal grease isn't rated very high in temperature.
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Re: Caliper sticking (n1div)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n1div »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMPORTANT: You have to use specific caliper grease since normal grease isn't rated very high in temperature.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good point
IMPORTANT: You have to use specific caliper grease since normal grease isn't rated very high in temperature.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good point
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Re: Caliper sticking (00Red_SiR)
check the brake lines, all the way from the master cylander to the caliper.....
u don't wanna replace the caliper to find out theres a leak in the line somewhere which WOULD cause it to stick (talking from personal experience)
u don't wanna replace the caliper to find out theres a leak in the line somewhere which WOULD cause it to stick (talking from personal experience)
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Re: Caliper sticking (skunk2eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunk2eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the brake lines, all the way from the master cylander to the caliper.....
u don't wanna replace the caliper to find out theres a leak in the line somewhere which WOULD cause it to stick (talking from personal experience)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Normally any kind of leak would result in a very spongy brake pedal as you would get air in the line. This would cause the caliper to stick because the loss of hydraulic pressure wouldn't allow the caliper to release after application. I highly doubt this is the problem experienced in the original post since he never mentioned any trouble with the way the brakes felt.
u don't wanna replace the caliper to find out theres a leak in the line somewhere which WOULD cause it to stick (talking from personal experience)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Normally any kind of leak would result in a very spongy brake pedal as you would get air in the line. This would cause the caliper to stick because the loss of hydraulic pressure wouldn't allow the caliper to release after application. I highly doubt this is the problem experienced in the original post since he never mentioned any trouble with the way the brakes felt.
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Re: Caliper sticking (n1div)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n1div »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Exactly what I was thinking. I've had this happen to me before and I fixed it with $4 caliper grease and just regreased my caliper guide pins. IMPORTANT: You have to use specific caliper grease since normal grease isn't rated very high in temperature.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, that is a good suggestion. I'll try that first. I do have hi-temp bearing lube, would that be sufficient? I was just a little confused by this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can try to clean and lube those bolts now but at this point you're probably better off replacing the whole caliper since that is the quickest easiest way to go.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure why I'd change the caliper if it's just the bolts. On a side note, on my previous car, when this happened, the caliper piston was actually 'frozen', and I couldn't get it to retract with my C clamp. I also couldn't get it out of the housing, so I needed to get a new caliper. I'm hoping it'll just be the bolts.
Exactly what I was thinking. I've had this happen to me before and I fixed it with $4 caliper grease and just regreased my caliper guide pins. IMPORTANT: You have to use specific caliper grease since normal grease isn't rated very high in temperature.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, that is a good suggestion. I'll try that first. I do have hi-temp bearing lube, would that be sufficient? I was just a little confused by this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can try to clean and lube those bolts now but at this point you're probably better off replacing the whole caliper since that is the quickest easiest way to go.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure why I'd change the caliper if it's just the bolts. On a side note, on my previous car, when this happened, the caliper piston was actually 'frozen', and I couldn't get it to retract with my C clamp. I also couldn't get it out of the housing, so I needed to get a new caliper. I'm hoping it'll just be the bolts.
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Re: Caliper sticking (00Red_SiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I highly doubt this is the problem experienced in the original post since he never mentioned any trouble with the way the brakes felt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, brake feel is great, and fluid is up to the max line. If there was a problem like that, I'm sure I would have found out when my fluid boiled or pedal went to the floor while I was tracking the car.
I highly doubt this is the problem experienced in the original post since he never mentioned any trouble with the way the brakes felt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, brake feel is great, and fluid is up to the max line. If there was a problem like that, I'm sure I would have found out when my fluid boiled or pedal went to the floor while I was tracking the car.
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Re: Caliper sticking (EX_AutoXer)
not so much the fluid leaking as a tiny bit of air getting in the lines....
it was where the brakes worked normal but it was a frozen caliper, that wouldn't release all the way....sounds like u don't have that
it was where the brakes worked normal but it was a frozen caliper, that wouldn't release all the way....sounds like u don't have that
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Re: Caliper sticking (EX_AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, that is a good suggestion. I'll try that first. I do have hi-temp bearing lube, would that be sufficient? I was just a little confused by this:
I'm not sure why I'd change the caliper if it's just the bolts. On a side note, on my previous car, when this happened, the caliper piston was actually 'frozen', and I couldn't get it to retract with my C clamp. I also couldn't get it out of the housing, so I needed to get a new caliper. I'm hoping it'll just be the bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That high temp bearing lube should be fine on those slider bolts, lots of people like to use an anti-seize type of lube just as a side note.
The reason why you'd change the caliper is because the bolts are relatively easy to clean and re-lube but the caliper itself isn't always easy to clean properly and may result in a caliper that "drags" a little or doesn't apply/release as easily as the other one does. Whatever you decide to do, it would be a good idea to clean and lube the other front caliper at the same time to ensure good balance.
Well, that is a good suggestion. I'll try that first. I do have hi-temp bearing lube, would that be sufficient? I was just a little confused by this:
I'm not sure why I'd change the caliper if it's just the bolts. On a side note, on my previous car, when this happened, the caliper piston was actually 'frozen', and I couldn't get it to retract with my C clamp. I also couldn't get it out of the housing, so I needed to get a new caliper. I'm hoping it'll just be the bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That high temp bearing lube should be fine on those slider bolts, lots of people like to use an anti-seize type of lube just as a side note.
The reason why you'd change the caliper is because the bolts are relatively easy to clean and re-lube but the caliper itself isn't always easy to clean properly and may result in a caliper that "drags" a little or doesn't apply/release as easily as the other one does. Whatever you decide to do, it would be a good idea to clean and lube the other front caliper at the same time to ensure good balance.
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Re: Caliper sticking (00Red_SiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That high temp bearing lube should be fine on those slider bolts, lots of people like to use an anti-seize type of lube just as a side note.
The reason why you'd change the caliper is because the bolts are relatively easy to clean and re-lube but the caliper itself isn't always easy to clean properly and may result in a caliper that "drags" a little or doesn't apply/release as easily as the other one does. Whatever you decide to do, it would be a good idea to clean and lube the other front caliper at the same time to ensure good balance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great, thanks for all the help. Now I know what I'll be getting into. I'll pick up a reman caliper just in case. Now if I do have to replace it, would I bleed just that corner of the car, or would I have to do all 4 corners. I've already flushed the lines a few months ago, and the fluid is fresh and clear, so I don't want to do it if it's not necessary.
That high temp bearing lube should be fine on those slider bolts, lots of people like to use an anti-seize type of lube just as a side note.
The reason why you'd change the caliper is because the bolts are relatively easy to clean and re-lube but the caliper itself isn't always easy to clean properly and may result in a caliper that "drags" a little or doesn't apply/release as easily as the other one does. Whatever you decide to do, it would be a good idea to clean and lube the other front caliper at the same time to ensure good balance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great, thanks for all the help. Now I know what I'll be getting into. I'll pick up a reman caliper just in case. Now if I do have to replace it, would I bleed just that corner of the car, or would I have to do all 4 corners. I've already flushed the lines a few months ago, and the fluid is fresh and clear, so I don't want to do it if it's not necessary.
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Re: Caliper sticking (EX_AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Great, thanks for all the help. Now I know what I'll be getting into. I'll pick up a reman caliper just in case. Now if I do have to replace it, would I bleed just that corner of the car, or would I have to do all 4 corners. I've already flushed the lines a few months ago, and the fluid is fresh and clear, so I don't want to do it if it's not necessary.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
as long as you make sure that your master cylinder doesn't empty (allowing air into the system) when you're changing the caliper, you'll only have to bleed the new caliper.
Great, thanks for all the help. Now I know what I'll be getting into. I'll pick up a reman caliper just in case. Now if I do have to replace it, would I bleed just that corner of the car, or would I have to do all 4 corners. I've already flushed the lines a few months ago, and the fluid is fresh and clear, so I don't want to do it if it's not necessary.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
as long as you make sure that your master cylinder doesn't empty (allowing air into the system) when you're changing the caliper, you'll only have to bleed the new caliper.
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