caliper rebuild
03-19-2006, 02:24 PM
#1
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caliper rebuild
i am putting integra calipers on my civic and i need to know if anyone has a how to on rebuilding calipers.
03-20-2006, 08:27 AM
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Re: caliper rebuild (jdmeg9)
lookin for similar info. Previous owner painted them bright red so I'm trying to rebuild and repaint them before installation. Does brake cleaner ruin the main piston seal?
03-20-2006, 08:54 AM
#3
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are you doing a complete rebuild, or just installing new seals?
Seals are cake
Main seals come in kits, so you should replace that if youre doing everything
Seals are cake
Main seals come in kits, so you should replace that if youre doing everything
03-20-2006, 09:03 AM
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
I'm not really sure what the difference is. Does the Honda "Caliper Rebuild Kit" include the seals and the main seals? Do you mind explaining what "doing everything" includes?
03-20-2006, 09:06 AM
#5
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Just get a rebuild kit from a local store. It will have seals, boots, and new crush washers. Cost will be less than 1/2 of honda...and seriously, it makes no difference
Some people rebuild a caliper by buying new pistons, etc and doing some machine work. Personally, I doubt thats needed at all for what most of us are doing
Some people rebuild a caliper by buying new pistons, etc and doing some machine work. Personally, I doubt thats needed at all for what most of us are doing
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03-20-2006, 01:41 PM
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
i am just doing seals. the seal around the piston was a little jacked up, so i wanted to go ahead and do it since i already had it off and didn't want to take it off again.
05-08-2006, 05:42 PM
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Re: (jdmeg9)
jdmeg9, Are you doing the front or rears? I've searched for the Beck-Arnley Rear Seal Kit for a LONG time, and nobody ever had it (rockauto.com, cks, autozone, pepboys, you_name_it.com). I ended up going with the OEM kit, which includes the 3 grease types.
Caliper Seal Kits for the Front are much easier to find and easier to use since the Front Caliper's Piston moves on hydraulics only (as opposed to having the mechanical mess in the bore of the Rear Calipers).
But the process of "re-building" your calipers will depend on what you have, in terms of calipers, seals, grease, time, and $$$$$. It's usually not too expensive ($20-35), unless your Calipers are F'd. Keep in mind there's a lot of semantic gray area between "restoring", "rebuilding", "resealing", etc. If it's just the Piston Seal, then you're not in too much trouble for the Front or Rear. If you're doing a complete re-seal of the Rear, then you'll need some Snap-Ring Pliers, and might need a Brake Spring Compressor to help get the Snap-Ring back in place.
-----------
For cheehee, Brake Cleaner and Brake Fluid will not damage the Piston Seals. If they look dry, you can always finger some lube to prevent cracking and dry-rot. The same can't be said for paint...
If you need pictures or anything else, LMK. GL!
JasonGhostz
Caliper Seal Kits for the Front are much easier to find and easier to use since the Front Caliper's Piston moves on hydraulics only (as opposed to having the mechanical mess in the bore of the Rear Calipers).
But the process of "re-building" your calipers will depend on what you have, in terms of calipers, seals, grease, time, and $$$$$. It's usually not too expensive ($20-35), unless your Calipers are F'd. Keep in mind there's a lot of semantic gray area between "restoring", "rebuilding", "resealing", etc. If it's just the Piston Seal, then you're not in too much trouble for the Front or Rear. If you're doing a complete re-seal of the Rear, then you'll need some Snap-Ring Pliers, and might need a Brake Spring Compressor to help get the Snap-Ring back in place.
-----------
For cheehee, Brake Cleaner and Brake Fluid will not damage the Piston Seals. If they look dry, you can always finger some lube to prevent cracking and dry-rot. The same can't be said for paint...
If you need pictures or anything else, LMK. GL!
JasonGhostz
05-09-2006, 05:34 PM
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Identifying Your Rear Caliper (cheehee)
The Rear Caliper for the 92-00 Civic has some stamps on the Caliper Body that will help identify it as an appropriate swap, as well as some other "clues" in the TA.
The Caliper should have "7CLP13S" and "R3". The Rear Calipers for the 88-91 Civic/CRX that I had before also had the "7CLP13S" stamping, but lacked the "R3". 92-00 CIVIC Rear Caliper (or compatible): http://img.autopartswarehouse....E.JPG
(Image Courtesy of AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
The Rear Caliper Piston for the 88-00 Civic & 90-01 Integra (non-R) is Honda PN 43215-SH3-931. This Piston has an OverAll Diameter of 1.189" (30.2 mm). Note that while this might be true, they are not necessarily the same Caliper. The Beck-Arnley site shows different part numbers (rather, different PN roots) for the Rear Calipers between the 88-91 Civic/CRX and the 92-00 Civic/DelSol, despite the fact that it shows the SAME Rear Caliper Repair Kit... Weird... http://www.mvreader.com/multiv...x.php I have also seen pictures of a "88-91 Civic Rear Caliper" (an online store) where the Parking Brake Cable Bracket had its mounting points in-line with the Bracket and Cable (perpendicular to the Caliper Bore Body). Also, the Rear Caliper Seal Kits for the 99-00 Civic SI shows as 01473-S04-000 (at slhondaparts.com), and for the 1997 3DR Integra RS it shows as 01473-ST7-000 (at acuraoemparts.com)... even though AutoPartsWarehouse shows the exact same PNs and pics for the Calipers. Weird...
One thing I know is: If you see "7CLP13S" and "R3", and you're putting these on a 92-00 Civic/DelSol non-ABS, then
If you are confident the Rear Calipers are still attached to their "origninal" Spindle, you can use the Spindle's shape to determine if you have a 88-91 Civic assembly, or a 92-00 assembly. The "EF" Spindles will have a smooth line between the Caliper Bracket Mounting Lobes , where the "EG/EK" Spindles have a little bump near the Torx Bolt holes. Furthermore, the "EF" Spindles have a metal dust cap around the base of the Spindle's Outter Shaft, where the "EG/EK" Spindles do not...
Right 88-91 Spindle: http://img55.imageshack.us/img...j.jpg
Right 92-00 Spindle: http://img65.imageshack.us/img...b.jpg
With the same assumption as the above, you can determine if your TA is from a Honda or an Acura. The Outter Diameter for the TA Bushing is either going to be 3.170", or 3.352" (check http://www.performanceforum.co....html for more...). I went to my DD (Stock USDM 1999 Civic 2DR EX) and measured the Bushing at 3.170"... If the TA has the smaller diameter TA Bushing, it is likely to be from a Honda.
And if the Spindle has wiring drilled into and attached to the Lower Caliper Mounting Lobe, then it is most likely from an Integra. There should also be a cut-out for the sensor in the Caliper Mudguard. The wires are leftovers from the ABS System, and of all 92-00 USDM Civic models, I think only the 1994 3DR SI had Rear Disc Brakes AND ABS as an option. Since I am not an owner of a 1994 3DR SI with ABS, I cannot be 100% certain of this. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Other than that, we'll have to rely on contributions from others to help sort things out.
More to come. GL
JasonGhostz
Modified by JasonGhostz at 6:18 PM 5/11/2006
The Caliper should have "7CLP13S" and "R3". The Rear Calipers for the 88-91 Civic/CRX that I had before also had the "7CLP13S" stamping, but lacked the "R3". 92-00 CIVIC Rear Caliper (or compatible): http://img.autopartswarehouse....E.JPG
(Image Courtesy of AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
The Rear Caliper Piston for the 88-00 Civic & 90-01 Integra (non-R) is Honda PN 43215-SH3-931. This Piston has an OverAll Diameter of 1.189" (30.2 mm). Note that while this might be true, they are not necessarily the same Caliper. The Beck-Arnley site shows different part numbers (rather, different PN roots) for the Rear Calipers between the 88-91 Civic/CRX and the 92-00 Civic/DelSol, despite the fact that it shows the SAME Rear Caliper Repair Kit... Weird... http://www.mvreader.com/multiv...x.php I have also seen pictures of a "88-91 Civic Rear Caliper" (an online store) where the Parking Brake Cable Bracket had its mounting points in-line with the Bracket and Cable (perpendicular to the Caliper Bore Body). Also, the Rear Caliper Seal Kits for the 99-00 Civic SI shows as 01473-S04-000 (at slhondaparts.com), and for the 1997 3DR Integra RS it shows as 01473-ST7-000 (at acuraoemparts.com)... even though AutoPartsWarehouse shows the exact same PNs and pics for the Calipers. Weird...
One thing I know is: If you see "7CLP13S" and "R3", and you're putting these on a 92-00 Civic/DelSol non-ABS, then
If you are confident the Rear Calipers are still attached to their "origninal" Spindle, you can use the Spindle's shape to determine if you have a 88-91 Civic assembly, or a 92-00 assembly. The "EF" Spindles will have a smooth line between the Caliper Bracket Mounting Lobes , where the "EG/EK" Spindles have a little bump near the Torx Bolt holes. Furthermore, the "EF" Spindles have a metal dust cap around the base of the Spindle's Outter Shaft, where the "EG/EK" Spindles do not...
Right 88-91 Spindle: http://img55.imageshack.us/img...j.jpg
Right 92-00 Spindle: http://img65.imageshack.us/img...b.jpg
With the same assumption as the above, you can determine if your TA is from a Honda or an Acura. The Outter Diameter for the TA Bushing is either going to be 3.170", or 3.352" (check http://www.performanceforum.co....html for more...). I went to my DD (Stock USDM 1999 Civic 2DR EX) and measured the Bushing at 3.170"... If the TA has the smaller diameter TA Bushing, it is likely to be from a Honda.
And if the Spindle has wiring drilled into and attached to the Lower Caliper Mounting Lobe, then it is most likely from an Integra. There should also be a cut-out for the sensor in the Caliper Mudguard. The wires are leftovers from the ABS System, and of all 92-00 USDM Civic models, I think only the 1994 3DR SI had Rear Disc Brakes AND ABS as an option. Since I am not an owner of a 1994 3DR SI with ABS, I cannot be 100% certain of this. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Other than that, we'll have to rely on contributions from others to help sort things out.
More to come. GL
JasonGhostz
Modified by JasonGhostz at 6:18 PM 5/11/2006
05-09-2006, 07:35 PM
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Pissed-Off... Piston (cheehee)
If the Rear Caliper Piston is stuck, an Air Compressor won't help much. The Air Compressor is supposed to be used on the Front Caliper, to pneumatically (as opposed to hydraulically) push a stubborn piston out. If your Rear Piston won't budge, it's probably because it's rusted to the inner bore walls, and/or to the adjusting bolt.
The Parking Brake moves the Rear Caliper Piston by mechanical means. Part of the assembly requires the Rear Caliper Piston to be "screwed" off of the Adjusting Bolt and out of the Bore. If your Piston is stuck to the Bore walls, try to "use" the Parking Brake to bust the rust loose. If your Piston Moves with your Parking Brake Lever, but won't unscrew, then you know it's fused to the adjusting Bolt.
But if your Parking Brake Lever won't move the Piston in/out, then you'll probably have to replace more than your Piston Dust Boot, and/or spend a long time cleaning the Bore out... Look into buying a new/reman'd Caliper if this is the case, and cross your fingers that they accept your core return. But if you still want to rebuild them... Here's a little story of what I had to do to my Left Rear Caliper...
The other Calipers I had come accross were OK. I could remove the Pistons using a strong set of needle nose pliers, spacing the tips out evenly within the embedded cross, and gradually applying pressure to break the Piston loose (like it shows in the Haynes Manual). Other people have used strong-shaft Screwdrivers to do the job. There are also some tools from a local shop you might be able to rent/buy. I can't attest to their usability, but they were the results of a car-specific search (1999 Civic 2DR SI)...
http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...71921
http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...48410
This MF'er was in such bad shape...
http://img264.imageshack.us/im...h.jpg
With rust encasing nearly the entire Piston surface, I knew it wasn't going to be easy. I sprayed the Caliper with Brake Cleaner, and let it dry. Then I put the caliper "outside-down" (pointing the Piston downward) and **sprayed PB Blaster into the Banjo Bolt and Bleeder Screw holes**. You can also spray WD-40, or drip 3-in-1 into these openings. I did this knowing I was fully breaking down the Caliper, so consider this while working on your own set.
Use of a torch could help. It will definitely burn your seals, and might melt the rubber seals in the deep Caliper Bore. Keep this in mind if you go that route.
One of my favorite tools is my 2lb rubber mallet. You can swing freely knowing you won't harm the Caliper Body, after removing all of the smaller parts. You can also use a wood block to help "target" your impact area. This might help break the rust loose.
But none of this **** was working for me (except I don't have a torch). I finally grabbed a small Hex Key and tried to use it to twist it out. After bending it, then re-bending it, and then re-re-bending it, the Piston finally broke loose. Wear thick gloves and use a rag to minimize the pain of putting so much pressure on a dinky little thing. Even with all that said, there was still A LOT OF RESISTANCE, and I gave up on using my bent^23812 Hex Key when the Piston protruded enough for me to use Vice Grips. I don't reccommend doing the same if you intend on re-using your F'd up Piston. Here are some pix when it came out...
http://img481.imageshack.us/im...e.jpg (Piston)
http://img208.imageshack.us/im...w.jpg (Piston)
http://img207.imageshack.us/im...e.jpg (Caliper Bore, Adjusting Bolt)
After overcoming a problem getting my Piston Sleeve out (read here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1454747 ), I managed to clean out the Caliper Bore, and I bought a new Piston. Here's what I have now...
http://img327.imageshack.us/im...s.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/im...g.jpg
http://img444.imageshack.us/im...w.jpg
But re-sealing isn't easy. Getting the Piston Dust Boot into its groove is easy enough, but spreading that **** wide enough for the Piston is tough, especially after applying the appropriate lube... Think "Vegas *****", and you'll get the Boot around the Piston. Then it's just a matter of screwing it back into the Bore after that, as the Boot will slip into its groove near the Piston's Head. Be sure the Piston is lubed as well, to help prevent binding.
But the main point is: What is causing your Piston to get stuck? If it's rust, then that means that the Caliper Bore is F'd, and you'll either have to remove it all, have it all removed, or get new ones... Unless you want to deal with this again, or, worse yet, have your Calipers freeze on you sometime in the future... If moisture and air seeps into your Brake Hydraulics, it gets trapped in there, free to spread rust all zee vay ahrouhnd.
I'll have a more complete "Brake-down" later. I'm just looking for the right Forum/Thread to post it in...
For the Fronts, it's similar, but a whole other story. The Front Caliper Piston Dust Boot uses a thin metal Clip to help secure it in place, and the Front Caliper Piston doesn't have the "internals" like the Rears.
Let us know, and GL! Others, please contribute with corrections or other insight!
JasonGhostz
Modified by JasonGhostz at 8:53 PM 5/9/2006
The Parking Brake moves the Rear Caliper Piston by mechanical means. Part of the assembly requires the Rear Caliper Piston to be "screwed" off of the Adjusting Bolt and out of the Bore. If your Piston is stuck to the Bore walls, try to "use" the Parking Brake to bust the rust loose. If your Piston Moves with your Parking Brake Lever, but won't unscrew, then you know it's fused to the adjusting Bolt.
But if your Parking Brake Lever won't move the Piston in/out, then you'll probably have to replace more than your Piston Dust Boot, and/or spend a long time cleaning the Bore out... Look into buying a new/reman'd Caliper if this is the case, and cross your fingers that they accept your core return. But if you still want to rebuild them... Here's a little story of what I had to do to my Left Rear Caliper...
The other Calipers I had come accross were OK. I could remove the Pistons using a strong set of needle nose pliers, spacing the tips out evenly within the embedded cross, and gradually applying pressure to break the Piston loose (like it shows in the Haynes Manual). Other people have used strong-shaft Screwdrivers to do the job. There are also some tools from a local shop you might be able to rent/buy. I can't attest to their usability, but they were the results of a car-specific search (1999 Civic 2DR SI)...
http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...71921
http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...48410
This MF'er was in such bad shape...
http://img264.imageshack.us/im...h.jpg
With rust encasing nearly the entire Piston surface, I knew it wasn't going to be easy. I sprayed the Caliper with Brake Cleaner, and let it dry. Then I put the caliper "outside-down" (pointing the Piston downward) and **sprayed PB Blaster into the Banjo Bolt and Bleeder Screw holes**. You can also spray WD-40, or drip 3-in-1 into these openings. I did this knowing I was fully breaking down the Caliper, so consider this while working on your own set.
Use of a torch could help. It will definitely burn your seals, and might melt the rubber seals in the deep Caliper Bore. Keep this in mind if you go that route.
One of my favorite tools is my 2lb rubber mallet. You can swing freely knowing you won't harm the Caliper Body, after removing all of the smaller parts. You can also use a wood block to help "target" your impact area. This might help break the rust loose.
But none of this **** was working for me (except I don't have a torch). I finally grabbed a small Hex Key and tried to use it to twist it out. After bending it, then re-bending it, and then re-re-bending it, the Piston finally broke loose. Wear thick gloves and use a rag to minimize the pain of putting so much pressure on a dinky little thing. Even with all that said, there was still A LOT OF RESISTANCE, and I gave up on using my bent^23812 Hex Key when the Piston protruded enough for me to use Vice Grips. I don't reccommend doing the same if you intend on re-using your F'd up Piston. Here are some pix when it came out...
http://img481.imageshack.us/im...e.jpg (Piston)
http://img208.imageshack.us/im...w.jpg (Piston)
http://img207.imageshack.us/im...e.jpg (Caliper Bore, Adjusting Bolt)
After overcoming a problem getting my Piston Sleeve out (read here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1454747 ), I managed to clean out the Caliper Bore, and I bought a new Piston. Here's what I have now...
http://img327.imageshack.us/im...s.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/im...g.jpg
http://img444.imageshack.us/im...w.jpg
But re-sealing isn't easy. Getting the Piston Dust Boot into its groove is easy enough, but spreading that **** wide enough for the Piston is tough, especially after applying the appropriate lube... Think "Vegas *****", and you'll get the Boot around the Piston. Then it's just a matter of screwing it back into the Bore after that, as the Boot will slip into its groove near the Piston's Head. Be sure the Piston is lubed as well, to help prevent binding.
But the main point is: What is causing your Piston to get stuck? If it's rust, then that means that the Caliper Bore is F'd, and you'll either have to remove it all, have it all removed, or get new ones... Unless you want to deal with this again, or, worse yet, have your Calipers freeze on you sometime in the future... If moisture and air seeps into your Brake Hydraulics, it gets trapped in there, free to spread rust all zee vay ahrouhnd.
I'll have a more complete "Brake-down" later. I'm just looking for the right Forum/Thread to post it in...
For the Fronts, it's similar, but a whole other story. The Front Caliper Piston Dust Boot uses a thin metal Clip to help secure it in place, and the Front Caliper Piston doesn't have the "internals" like the Rears.
Let us know, and GL! Others, please contribute with corrections or other insight!
JasonGhostz
Modified by JasonGhostz at 8:53 PM 5/9/2006
05-10-2006, 08:13 AM
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Re: Pissed-Off... Piston (JasonGhostz)
nice info JasonGhostz, thanks! this kind of research needs to be part of the FAQ. look forward to your more complete "Break-down" although you've already posted a lot of details. ya just learn tons when you run into problems huh.
05-10-2006, 08:45 AM
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Re: Pissed-Off... Piston (cheehee)
Ask .RJ the mod in the rr/auto x forum. A lot of guys in that forum do thier own rebuilds and I know he was planning on doing a how to the next time that he rebuilt his.
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