boostedef123

Bet you 20 bucks you have a bad temp sensor and it causing the car to run rich. This was also previously mentioned and ignored in the thread. Easy 20-30 dollar part could be the problem and yet it was over looked and replaced 100 dollars parts before hand?

JUICE66

Yep 3rd page of this thread as a matter of fact

strategy400

You said you put new plugs. Did you check the gap? A wider gap will burn better at low RPM's but might misfire at high RPM's. A smaller gap will fire more reliably but might not provide complete combustion. Make sure your plug gaps are spot on to spec.

Also change that air filter.

Did you install the T-stat with the gasket recess and jiggle valve pointing up?

Replace the ECU temp sensor, the ECU might not know to throw CEL if that is sending bad data (indicating low temp and dumping in excess fuel).

Does your radiator fan come on as expected? Does it come on sensibly in conjuction with your temp gauge (gauge goes up fan comes on - gauge goes down fan goes off)? This could help give clues to determine if your fan thermoswitch and temp gauge sender are working properly.

You really want your car as hot as possible without overheating to smog.

Funny story is I took an old 1970's Dodge truck to the smog station pouring smoke out the tailpipe and it passed. The entire garage was choked with smoke. Funny as hell. They couldn't believe it passed.

DCFIVER

How long ago was this?

CivicSD

True. Catalytic converters work better as they get hotter. Run the A/C if you have it. Perhaps even block the grille with cardboard.

strategy400

Year or two.

DCFIVER

Ahh that explains it. A new test procedure was enacted in Jan. 2010. It is called "The Visible Smoke test" If the vehicle is visibly smoking from the PCV system or out of the tail pipe it will fail the visual portion of the smog test.

boostedef123

Has the temprature sensor been checked? updatE?

rhymeshark916

As I mentioned before that is a different motor.

On 08/31/11,

ej1b18c1

This is not true, you can have a 2001 b18c1 swap and pass state ref using obd1 and long as all 94-95 gsr obd1 parts/smog emissions equipment is from 94-95 obd1. I've done this a bunch for myself and buddies as well. Give them a call or ask the tech and he will tell you the same.

The ecu is what year of swap they will go off of, so if it's a 95 ecu then on your sticker it will be a 95 b18c1 even if it's a 2001 swap. However everything you bolt up to the swap must match the ecu, even wiring harness dizzy etc smog emissions(obd1) with no conversion harnesses etc.

lek9l

Your first results look like you running to rich around 11.4, then 13.6, the rest of the results seem to appear your running over 15.1 which is a little lean. When you drive the air/fuel ratio should be near the same at 14.7, but you won't know even by looking at the results from the smog check, so you should use a wideband o2 sensor to figure out your air/fuel ratio. The smog tech don't know squat probably, he marked you down for a diagnose system malfunction which is for obd2, he made a mistake, just being a little tipsy with you. Make sure everything is connected properly like your hoses and and stuff before doing anything else. Seems like you already replaced the catalyst converter so your NOx isnt the problem, I suggest fixing the tune, you should pass with flying colors after that.

Your running a chipped ecu with crome, it can pass but you need a street tune done using datalogging and the program will allow to adjust the timing and fuel. The smog dyno simulates street driving so you will need to do a street tune and not smooth the graphs out. I passed by tuning with a hondata with a wideband o2 sensor at a 14.7 air/fuel ratio on multiple streets, hill, high load, low load, straight away, my fuel tables were hills because of the shift points and simulation on the streets, which what the maps should look like so your air/fuel will be dead perfect, but for performance they would be smoothed out but there a possibility it will fail smog because your car not always running on a smooth plane. You got to tune the car properly and read the air/fuel ratio using a meter or datalogging into some ecu tuning software and make changes to the timing and fuel. I made a hondata calibration file convert to as bin in crome and burned it to chip. The crome program on the chip ran practically identical. If your tuner is smoothing things out then you aren't going to pass, has to be all perfect through out the rpm range, won't look pretty straight like a performance map would but at least it will run more perfect. Basemaps are good starts when tuning but they aren't good maps to just throw in your car to pass smog, every car is different and needs special maps for the weight, power, and mods done to the car. Smoothing the hills out are only good to increase performance, but its terrible for smog, you need the hills for the loads and shift points which is a street tune. If the air/fuel ratio is jumping around while your shifting and driving then that means your basemaps are not hilly enough to give you perfect air/fuel. When you tune, the best places to help with smog is at 15mph at 2000 to 2500 rpm in second gear and 25mph at 2000-2500 rpm in third gear. You should pass with no problem if those are tuned properly and the car is running good. Need some help diagnosing the problems here you go:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/smog-ref-gone-tips-passing-smog-check-now-2376794/

DOHCkilla90

you have to much hc-raw fuel .......co is a combustion monitor and co2 is also a cumbustion monitor u have to much fuel not being burned and also ur co is showing ur running rich .. do compression test and check compression and check plugs for wear and gap size

creep403

Oklahoma ... WTF is inspection and smog??? LMAO

apexi_rsx

ive seen people throw in rubbing alcohol to try to pass emissions with no cat a buddy of mine tried it it got close but no cigar. u could try it should lower emissions some just to get it through. or try running a octane booster like turbo 108.

bradley

rhymeshark916

LOL. Thanks for the bumps guys. Keep the thread up if you guys want.