ShortyzKustomz

Hey guys, I just got my first Honda so be gentle. I have a 93 DX Sedan with a single cam vtech swap and quite a few mods, One problem I've noticed is when my a/c is on the car is dead, The idle drops horrible and will hardly stay running at lights, I know on alot of other cars there is a sensor to raise idle when the a/c is on just wondering if there is on this car and where is it located and what do I need to do to make it work, Previous owner told me it did this the whole time he drove to car ( 5 months) At first I thought it was because the car has a DX Ecu in it till I get the ECU from the guy I bought it from. (The ecu in the car was chipped and he wanted to see what it did on his supercharged single cam, and hes giving me a good vtech ecu this week) But when he had it before it had the chipped ecu and it still did this. Also would the DX ecu make the car have NO bottom end? The car is slow as ***** right now!

Libertariat

Get the proper ecu.

Until then, adjust the TPS, clean the FITV, tb, and map sensor.

ShortyzKustomz

It was doing the idle drop with the old ecu too though, I will have the chipped ecu that in was in car in a day or too, Also you have to forgive me, Im new to Hondas so what the FITV? I've had a good amount of time working on friends hondas including putting the supercharger on my friend and helping my friend build his single cam. Just trying to fix the little problems on this thing and learning all I can at the same time, This site has a new record for quickest reply

HondamanXxX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the proper ecu.

Until then, adjust the TPS, clean the FITV, tb, and map sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

egsleepercivic

clean the IACV, i don't think FITV would effect idle after the car is warmed up

gl

ShortyzKustomz

God I gotta lotta learning to do, Im just learning where all the sensors are. I've had this car for 3 days and havent got to mess with it much. Im used to Nissans Vws and Domestics but I have to say in 3 days this is the funnest car I've owned including a 11 sec Camaro

TypeRB

The IAC (Idle Air Control valve) is the culprit here. I recently bought a '95 that the IAC was toast, and the A/C compressor would drop the engine rpms by at least 500rpm. I countered the problem by adjusting the throttle cable position with the A/C running so the engine would 'idle' at 750-800 according to the dash tach. When the compressor kicks off, however, the rpms will shoot up to 1300-1400. This is not a permanent fix, but if you can't afford the almost $200 it'll cost for a new IAC (from a chain auto parts store), this is your quick-fix.

I also noticed when I was in there changing out the IAC and the Intake Air Temp sensor (both of the CEL codes) after a major overheat, that the IAC has its own wiring lead, whereas the IAT sensor is bundled together with the evap-canister sensor right above it on the intake manifold. Mine was plugged in improperly, however, correcting that issue didn't solve the IAC CEL flash code, even after resetting the ECU.

Hope this helps.

ShortyzKustomz

So where is the IAC located at? I have done TPS sensors and such before on my last car, so I know how pricey little sensors can be. Also how do you adjust the TPS?

97Ej6mike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortyzKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So where is the IAC located at? I have done TPS sensors and such before on my last car, so I know how pricey little sensors can be. Also how do you adjust the TPS?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Back of the manifold, just to the right of the throttlebody. Held on by 2 12mm bolts. Has two coolant lines, and a 2-wire plug going to it.

As for the TPS, check to make sure it is securly in place, and not moving (a great deal) when the gas pedal is being pressed.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The IAC (Idle Air Control valve) is the culprit here. I recently bought a '95 that the IAC was toast, and the A/C compressor would drop the engine rpms by at least 500rpm. I countered the problem by adjusting the throttle cable position with the A/C running so the engine would 'idle' at 750-800 according to the dash tach. When the compressor kicks off, however, the rpms will shoot up to 1300-1400. This is not a permanent fix, but if you can't afford the almost $200 it'll cost for a new IAC (from a chain auto parts store), this is your quick-fix.

I also noticed when I was in there changing out the IAC and the Intake Air Temp sensor (both of the CEL codes) after a major overheat, that the IAC has its own wiring lead, whereas the IAT sensor is bundled together with the evap-canister sensor right above it on the intake manifold. Mine was plugged in improperly, however, correcting that issue didn't solve the IAC CEL flash code, even after resetting the ECU.

Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's possible that it's the IACV...but I doubt it.

Usually when the IACV is tripping ur idle always sucks - not just when AC strain is on it.

There is no sensor that detects when the AC is on, it's just that the ECU senses the extra load that it puts on and raises the current coming from the alternator.

lollypopking

You might also want to check your freon level. When the A/C system has either too much or too little freon, the compressor clutch will click on and off as it tries to stabilize the pressure (kinda like when a car idles up and down when you have a vaccum leak). The sudden activation of th clutch can stall an engine.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortyzKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">God I gotta lotta learning to do, Im just learning where all the sensors are. I've had this car for 3 days and havent got to mess with it much. Im used to Nissans Vws and Domestics but I have to say in 3 days this is the funnest car I've owned including a 11 sec Camaro
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nissans have more sensors .

You had an 11 second camaro? I had a camaro too, never got it treed though, did you ever have it dynoed? What kinda setup were you running?

ShortyzKustomz

Whats a good way to check the freon. It blows cold but I was going to try to charge it this week. Im epa certified so I picked up some R-12. I thought about the ecu thing but the car was doing it with a vtec ecu in it as well. As far as my Camaro, It was a built 383 with Th-350 trans and 4.11 gears Dynoed at 416 hp 486 ft lbs of torque, Car is now for sale with a built 350 and 3.42 gears. Ran 11.9s on drag radials 2 times, every other time was low 12s, Then I sold the motor and dropped in the 350 and daily drove it for 3 years @ 8 mpg. Been parked since late '05. Makes me love this Honda even more now haha, I went all week on a tank!

ShortyzKustomz

Also would a Nasty rip in my intake boot cause any of these problems, my new intake should be in Monday but I drove it close to open TB home from buying and and to work (Which is when I notcied this problem)

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortyzKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also would a Nasty rip in my intake boot cause any of these problems, my new intake should be in Monday but I drove it close to open TB home from buying and and to work (Which is when I notcied this problem)</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're talking about the intake at any point before the throttle body - no.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortyzKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats a good way to check the freon. It blows cold but I was going to try to charge it this week. Im epa certified so I picked up some R-12. I thought about the ecu thing but the car was doing it with a vtec ecu in it as well. As far as my Camaro, It was a built 383 with Th-350 trans and 4.11 gears Dynoed at 416 hp 486 ft lbs of torque, Car is now for sale with a built 350 and 3.42 gears. Ran 11.9s on drag radials 2 times, every other time was low 12s, Then I sold the motor and dropped in the 350 and daily drove it for 3 years @ 8 mpg. Been parked since late '05. Makes me love this Honda even more now haha, I went all week on a tank!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Word, I had a '67 Z28 with a 454 bored out to a 509 w/ an allison 4sp tranny and a holley 850 carb/50cc ac pump, more aggressive cam, and a lower intake. Dropped 530/527 all motor and 748/802 on spray. Ha, I ran a 411 rear too - good ratio for track + DD - never got it treed though, but on spray I think it coulda possibly ran sub 10's. Iono why the hell my torque sucked so badly though - never figured that one out.

Everybody's torque ownz mine in terms of HP to torque ratio .

I like Hondas stoo b/c of the gas - but certain people ruin it for everybody that owns Hondas - then let's not forget about the fact that everybody revs at you at a light. That would be fine I suppose if I wasn't riding a stock motor .

ShortyzKustomz

Yeah Im just talking about the rubber boot off the tb

I liked the Camaro for what it was, But I must say this Honda with the mods on it is fun as hell even with the single cam.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortyzKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah Im just talking about the rubber boot off the tb

I liked the Camaro for what it was, But I must say this Honda with the mods on it is fun as hell even with the single cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eh, I have no complaints about mine in the power dept - but as far as torque goes it's a pain in the ******* ***.

You shouldn't see THIRD on I-86 and parts of I-84...but if you're driving a 1.6L stock Honda...you do....