Shadowcat

Ok I got one that will stump you. I have a 95 civic with a b16a in it. Its pretty much stock other than some bolt ons. Ok so my question is what is the difference between starting the car using the starter and just pushing downhill and poping the clutch. What exactly Is used and not used between the both other than the starter obiously. The problem im having is the car refuses to start using the starter and when I pop the clutch the car starts instantly and run perfect

Former User

Such a simple question would never stump this tech forum:

Shadowcat

So What you're saying is that the clutch pedal switch would cause the car to have a hard time starting?

v8killaz

yeah maybe. its very easy to check lol.
or weak starter/battery

Shadowcat

How do I check that sensor I have already had to replace the alternator and battery

Former User

If the switch or the rubber stopper (red arrow) it presses on is broken, then the starter won't crank the engine.

Shadowcat

the car does crank over. here is a vid and most of the time it just wont start. but since it knows its on camera it starts lol.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6912156...in/photostream

heres a link to the vid

jbpnoman

You've replaced the alternator and battery, but have you replaced the starter yet?

Shadowcat

Why would I replace the starter itself. It does start the car it does work. But idk don't see the reasoning

jbpnoman

...Does it start the car, or doesn't it? If it starts the car, I don't know why you started a thread. If you're kick starting the car, the starter isn't actually doing anything.

The entire purpose of a starter is to engage a small gear that rapidly shoots out, engages the flywheel, and turns the motor over. When you let the key return to ON (II), the starter motor disengages from the flywheel and the motor continues running on it's own. That's why if you try to start a car that's already running, you hear a nasty grinding noise - the starter gear can't engage the already spinning flywheel, and just sits there ripping cogs up.

When you kick start a car, you're removing the starter from the equation entirely. The whole point of kick starting is to create enough driveline shock transferred directly to the motor that it starts running. When you do this, the starter gear never spins, and never engages the flywheel.

Now that you know how a starter works, I'll ask again: Have you tried replacing the starter?

Shadowcat

no i have not replaced the starter. the starter does start the car eventually. the point of this thread is to find out why would it take the starter so long to start the car and why would dumping the clutch start it instantly.

the problem i have been having with the car is if the starter does manage to start the car if i rev it it will have a hard time increasing idle it sputters makes a backfiring noise hesitates then will bog out and die even with full throttle. and the idle is at like 40. doesnt even register on the tach and if you try to drive it will instantly bog out and die. once it does this it will take forever to start again. but if i "kick start" it, it will catch the idle and start perfectly and catch the idle

Former User

This^ information should have been included in the first post.

You also must create a thread title that summarizes the problem -- title edited.

This^ information also should have been included in the first post.

When was the last ignition system tune up done? Any CEL codes?

Shadowcat

thanks Ron. still learning on this forum. to answer your question i dont think the ignition has ever been tuned up and frankly i dont even know what that would entitle (thats why you guys are the smart ones). and as for the cel codes i do know how to read them but i get two codes that do not exist and instead of my CEL light blinking the SRS light does. and while im driving the srs light and the cel light are always on.

Former User

Ignition system tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition timing

CEL - click CEL sticky thread at the top. Jump service connector to see what CEL codes, if any, blink.

SRS - separate airbag system problem. SRS light blinks airbag error codes when service connector is jumped.

Shadowcat

ok then i have an airbag problem. the wires, plugs, cap, and rotor have all benn replaced 3 weeks ago. didnt fix the situation.

Former User

Check the ignition timing, and also post a picture of the CEL blinking when the service connector is jumped as it's most important to fix the CEL issue before considering anything else.

Shadowcat

ok this is what happens when i stick i paper clip in service connector. the srs light flashes and the check engine light turns off when i try to read the codes. however the CEL is on while im driving along with the SRS


http://www.flickr.com/photos/6912156...in/photostream

Former User

^Sounds like a bad ECU. Try swapping in a known good ECU.
-------------------
I think the SRS code(s) may be truncated in the video. If you run the video longer, I'll tell you the code(s) that is thrown and the airbag circuit affected.

Shadowcat

alright. i hope this helps

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6912156...in/photostream

Former User

SRS codes 9-2 and 5-1. These suggest a problem with power to the SRS unit.

If somebody has the 95 Civic service manual, please post the troubleshooting diagrams for these two SRS codes.

Shadowcat

ok so now i know i have two codes that pertain to the airbag system. but how would is at all affect my car from being a pain to start?

Former User

Shadowcat

ok so ill take that as not going to affect the car. would the car running rich cause such a problem?