HT Username

Hey guys I have a b18b1 turbo and My car just recently started burning oil. I switched over to mobil 1 5w30 synthetic and ever since I did that when I first start up the car for the first 5 miles or so it burns crazy oil to the point where I cant see the car behind me. After those 5 miles it stops burning oil. What could be causing this? The car has never seen anything over 7psi on a t3t4 drag kit. Its not the turbo because its not white smoke its pure blue smoke coming from the tail pipe. Im going to take a guess its the valve seals and switching over to a thinner oil and it being synthetic its letting the oil pass through a little wile the car is off. What do you guys think it is?

HT Username

civiccpedx

it is either the valve seals, or the rings. mine burns oil, only noticeably at WOT, and the rings are shot on mine.

HT Username

Yea im guessing its the seals... atleast i hope... i dont feel like rebuilding yet.

HT Username

any other idea's?

Bond

Seals, rings, etc. What ever it is, it will need to be pulled all apart and rebuilt. Happend with my Si and I rebuilt it and upgraded at the same time (sleeves, pistons, etc.). Best thing I ever did .

HT Username

How much boost do you run?


I've herd that as long as you stay under 20psi its not worth sleeving the motor. I talked to JE pistons to day to one of there tech guys and he said that. He said all you need is a good set of rods and pistons either 81mm or 81.5mm and go with the 8:5:1 SRE ones they have and should be fine. How do you feel?

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonHatch94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much boost do you run?


I've herd that as long as you stay under 20psi its not worth sleeving the motor. I talked to JE pistons to day to one of there tech guys and he said that. He said all you need is a good set of rods and pistons either 81mm or 81.5mm and go with the 8:5:1 SRE ones they have and should be fine. How do you feel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He has a point and I would have to agree, but I still feel better having it sleeved. I would suggest having it sleeved if you have the money. I am also going to be boosting a lot more come summer time with my new turbo kit so we will see. I will need it sleeved for this application, so I am happy I sleeved already and that I it didn't blow up in the mean time.

HT Username

getting ready to pull it tonight.... I think its just valve seals, but being its a b18b1 and the fact that a LS motor at 300whp will come apart I think its worth it just to pull it, get it to the machine shop let them go through it and also put some nice pistons/rods in there so i can have 300whp and be good to go and not worry about a rod letting go.

hatch34

most likley the seals becasue it stops after the car is warmed up if it kept doin it then more like the rings but if it stops then i guess the seals. but check your compression and do a leak down

Farmer Brown

Could be the turbo leaking oil.

HT Username

did a compression test its 200-210 all the way around.


As for the turbo, I thought that at first but if it was the turbo it would be a pretty constant thing. It would burn all the time and not just for the first few minutes.

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonHatch94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did a compression test its 200-210 all the way around.


As for the turbo, I thought that at first but if it was the turbo it would be a pretty constant thing. It would burn all the time and not just for the first few minutes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What about a leakdown?

The turbo may be leaking slowly while sitting, and your burning off when you first run, but not leaking enough to smoke all the time while driving.

HT Username

I've never done a leak down. How do you do this?

AutoXer

You need to have an air compressor, and a pretty pricey gauge, so it may be easiest to take it to a shop.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgr...n.htm




Modified by EX_AutoXer at 4:34 PM 4/8/2005

HT Username

I have a air compressor. I might take a shot at this.

thanks

chameleon

switch to castrol GT regular not synthetic and 20w50 and see how that works for you.

HT Username

I changed to 10w40 and still does it a little but only untill the turbo spools up. after it spools up for like the first time it stops doing it. wtf?

HT Username

bump

ssbpturbohatch

like chameleon said, switch to 20w50 cause its a thicker oil and can withstand more heat that the turbo makes, but if your turbo has any seals that are starting to go bad then it will continue to burn oil till the turbo blows or you get it rebuilt. I ran valvoline 20w50 synth. in my sohc vtec turbo set up and didnt really burn any oil at all, maybe 1/2 qt every 2000 miles or so
that was on 8-10 psi