Bumpstop question
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Bumpstop question
My car came with KYB gr2's and ground control adj. coilovers. The idiot that had the car before me never installed bumpstops and my wheels rub the fender's alot. What bumpstops do i buy for this setup? just the OEM ones?
#3
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Re: Bumpstop question (94eg!)
#11 for the front: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ORBER
#15 for the rear: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ORBER
I could never image the ride quality without these.
#15 for the rear: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ORBER
I could never image the ride quality without these.
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Re: Bumpstop question (gabebauman)
#6
Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zach1288 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which one should i order and are these 12 dollars for one?
http://www.ground-control-stor...II=10</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they are $12 a piece. The price is about the same as it would cost for a stock bump stop from the dealer.
http://www.ground-control-stor...II=10</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they are $12 a piece. The price is about the same as it would cost for a stock bump stop from the dealer.
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#8
Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
order the ones that would originally come on your car. you can cut them like the other guy said or you can just leave them how they are and put them on. i didnt have a problem with mine and i didnt cut them. so just order the ones that would originally come on your car!
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Re: Bumpstop question (gabebauman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#11 for the front: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ORBER
#15 for the rear: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ORBER
I could never image the ride quality without these. </TD></TR></TABLE>
number 11 and 15 do i have to make the quanity 2? or do they include 2?
#15 for the rear: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ORBER
I could never image the ride quality without these. </TD></TR></TABLE>
number 11 and 15 do i have to make the quanity 2? or do they include 2?
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Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
if you have kyb shocks you should buy kyb bump stops - go to tirerack.com -
also if your wheel is hitting fender it might not be from your bump stops - it might be from your strut mounts.
check your upper strut mounts you may need to replace them as well - i did.
i have a set of kyb gr2 shocks with tien s spring and replaced the mounts and bump stops with kyb stuff and now it runs beautifully.
think about it
also if your wheel is hitting fender it might not be from your bump stops - it might be from your strut mounts.
check your upper strut mounts you may need to replace them as well - i did.
i have a set of kyb gr2 shocks with tien s spring and replaced the mounts and bump stops with kyb stuff and now it runs beautifully.
think about it
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Re: Bumpstop question (EK9Rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have kyb shocks you should buy kyb bump stops - go to tirerack.com -
also if your wheel is hitting fender it might not be from your bump stops - it might be from your strut mounts.
check your upper strut mounts you may need to replace them as well - i did.
i have a set of kyb gr2 shocks with tien s spring and replaced the mounts and bump stops with kyb stuff and now it runs beautifully.
think about it</TD></TR></TABLE>
I cant find the bumpstops on tirerack
also if your wheel is hitting fender it might not be from your bump stops - it might be from your strut mounts.
check your upper strut mounts you may need to replace them as well - i did.
i have a set of kyb gr2 shocks with tien s spring and replaced the mounts and bump stops with kyb stuff and now it runs beautifully.
think about it</TD></TR></TABLE>
I cant find the bumpstops on tirerack
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Re: Bumpstop question (EK9Rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have kyb shocks you should buy kyb bump stops - go to tirerack.com -
also if your wheel is hitting fender it might not be from your bump stops - it might be from your strut mounts.
check your upper strut mounts you may need to replace them as well - i did.
i have a set of kyb gr2 shocks with tien s spring and replaced the mounts and bump stops with kyb stuff and now it runs beautifully.
think about it</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean it might be my strut mounts, what goes bad on them?
also if your wheel is hitting fender it might not be from your bump stops - it might be from your strut mounts.
check your upper strut mounts you may need to replace them as well - i did.
i have a set of kyb gr2 shocks with tien s spring and replaced the mounts and bump stops with kyb stuff and now it runs beautifully.
think about it</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean it might be my strut mounts, what goes bad on them?
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Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
bumpstops on tirerack are called strut boots - punch in your make/model/year car and click on suspension
you'll know your mounts are shot when you take a corner and your fender hitts your wheel -- or if you pop your hood and you bounce your car and you see the shaft of your shock come through the shock.
the bushings on the mount go bad
you'll know your mounts are shot when you take a corner and your fender hitts your wheel -- or if you pop your hood and you bounce your car and you see the shaft of your shock come through the shock.
the bushings on the mount go bad
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Re: Bumpstop question (EK9Rider)
They only rub when i take a sharp turn at very high speeds, so i ordered OEM bumpstops from honda and i will install those and see if that helps first.
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Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zach1288 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car came with KYB gr2's and ground control adj. coilovers. The idiot that had the car before me never installed bumpstops and my wheels rub the fender's alot. What bumpstops do i buy for this setup? just the OEM ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>
wait. You're going to count on bumpstops to keep you off your fenders?!!
Hitting your bumpstops is violent and it makes pretty bad noises. Also, if you're low enough to hit your bumpstops, you've probably blown the hell out of your shocks.
Bumpstops stop the shock at extreme amounts of shock travel...I.E. way more than the shock/spring was meant to travel. You will probably rub your fenders with or without bumpstops. Usually, shocks have enough travel to make it WAYY past your fenders before destructing (without bumpstops).
If you're using a bump stop to stop your suspension ALL THE TIME, you might eventually just tear a hole in your shock tower.
If you order bumpstops too big, you will hit bumpstop all the time. You're supposed to cut them when you lower the car so they're not in the way all the time. If you bumpstop around a turn, you will hopelessly understeer...ruining all the advantages of lowering your car in the first place.
wait. You're going to count on bumpstops to keep you off your fenders?!!
Hitting your bumpstops is violent and it makes pretty bad noises. Also, if you're low enough to hit your bumpstops, you've probably blown the hell out of your shocks.
Bumpstops stop the shock at extreme amounts of shock travel...I.E. way more than the shock/spring was meant to travel. You will probably rub your fenders with or without bumpstops. Usually, shocks have enough travel to make it WAYY past your fenders before destructing (without bumpstops).
If you're using a bump stop to stop your suspension ALL THE TIME, you might eventually just tear a hole in your shock tower.
If you order bumpstops too big, you will hit bumpstop all the time. You're supposed to cut them when you lower the car so they're not in the way all the time. If you bumpstop around a turn, you will hopelessly understeer...ruining all the advantages of lowering your car in the first place.
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Re: Bumpstop question (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wait. You're going to count on bumpstops to keep you off your fenders?!!
Hitting your bumpstops is violent and it makes pretty bad noises. Also, if you're low enough to hit your bumpstops, you've probably blown the hell out of your shocks.
Bumpstops stop the shock at extreme amounts of shock travel...I.E. way more than the shock/spring was meant to travel. You will probably rub your fenders with or without bumpstops. Usually, shocks have enough travel to make it WAYY past your fenders before destructing (without bumpstops).
If you're using a bump stop to stop your suspension ALL THE TIME, you might eventually just tear a hole in your shock tower.
If you order bumpstops too big, you will hit bumpstop all the time. You're supposed to cut them when you lower the car so they're not in the way all the time. If you bumpstop around a turn, you will hopelessly understeer...ruining all the advantages of lowering your car in the first place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well why am i rubbing? i have a 2 finger gap in the front between the fender and tire?
wait. You're going to count on bumpstops to keep you off your fenders?!!
Hitting your bumpstops is violent and it makes pretty bad noises. Also, if you're low enough to hit your bumpstops, you've probably blown the hell out of your shocks.
Bumpstops stop the shock at extreme amounts of shock travel...I.E. way more than the shock/spring was meant to travel. You will probably rub your fenders with or without bumpstops. Usually, shocks have enough travel to make it WAYY past your fenders before destructing (without bumpstops).
If you're using a bump stop to stop your suspension ALL THE TIME, you might eventually just tear a hole in your shock tower.
If you order bumpstops too big, you will hit bumpstop all the time. You're supposed to cut them when you lower the car so they're not in the way all the time. If you bumpstop around a turn, you will hopelessly understeer...ruining all the advantages of lowering your car in the first place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well why am i rubbing? i have a 2 finger gap in the front between the fender and tire?
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Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
springs are too soft probably. bumpstops are not meant to do what you're trying to make them do.
Either the springs are too soft, the shock is too soft or blown, or the wheel is wide enough that it hits other parts and you think it's hitting the top of the wheel well.
Considering that these are ground controls, i doubt it's the springs. How big are your wheels and what width/offset?
Either the springs are too soft, the shock is too soft or blown, or the wheel is wide enough that it hits other parts and you think it's hitting the top of the wheel well.
Considering that these are ground controls, i doubt it's the springs. How big are your wheels and what width/offset?
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Re: Bumpstop question (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">springs are too soft probably. bumpstops are not meant to do what you're trying to make them do.
Either the springs are too soft, the shock is too soft or blown, or the wheel is wide enough that it hits other parts and you think it's hitting the top of the wheel well.
Considering that these are ground controls, i doubt it's the springs. How big are your wheels and what width/offset?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are rota torques 16" with 205/45 tires
Is there a way to tell if i need new struts or springs or both?
Modified by zach1288 at 6:19 AM 7/5/2007
Either the springs are too soft, the shock is too soft or blown, or the wheel is wide enough that it hits other parts and you think it's hitting the top of the wheel well.
Considering that these are ground controls, i doubt it's the springs. How big are your wheels and what width/offset?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are rota torques 16" with 205/45 tires
Is there a way to tell if i need new struts or springs or both?
Modified by zach1288 at 6:19 AM 7/5/2007
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Re: Bumpstop question (zach1288)
if your shocks are leaking - they're blown
it takes a lot for springs to go bad - and no your springs are just fine - too soft is called stock springs.
sounds like you need to replace your strut mounts - you can get them at your local autoparts for $12
replace your strut mounts and DO NOT CUT YOUR BUMP STOPS.. that is the biggest load of b.s i have ever heard.
get the right bump stops and you'll be fine. oem ones are fine. i had stock oem bumpstops and they ran fine.
you can start off by adding in your bump stops and replacing your strut mounts.
if you want call tirerack and see what they say... they will explain it in full detail
it takes a lot for springs to go bad - and no your springs are just fine - too soft is called stock springs.
sounds like you need to replace your strut mounts - you can get them at your local autoparts for $12
replace your strut mounts and DO NOT CUT YOUR BUMP STOPS.. that is the biggest load of b.s i have ever heard.
get the right bump stops and you'll be fine. oem ones are fine. i had stock oem bumpstops and they ran fine.
you can start off by adding in your bump stops and replacing your strut mounts.
if you want call tirerack and see what they say... they will explain it in full detail
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Re: Bumpstop question (EK9Rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your shocks are leaking - they're blown
it takes a lot for springs to go bad - and no your springs are just fine - too soft is called stock springs.
sounds like you need to replace your strut mounts - you can get them at your local autoparts for $12
replace your strut mounts and DO NOT CUT YOUR BUMP STOPS.. that is the biggest load of b.s i have ever heard.
get the right bump stops and you'll be fine. oem ones are fine. i had stock oem bumpstops and they ran fine.
you can start off by adding in your bump stops and replacing your strut mounts.
if you want call tirerack and see what they say... they will explain it in full detail </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would shock mounts going bad have anything to do with him hitting his fender?
Why wouldn't you cut bumpstops for a lowered car?
IM MAKING UP THESE NUMBERS:
Lets say that your total stock suspension travel is about 8''. 0'' being sitting there with no weight on it (car on the ground). 8'' being the suspension at absolute travel. The bumpstop would probably kick in at about 5''. This leaves a buffer zone before your springs bind, and your shock pistons go thru your shock towers and hood. So that's 5'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping STOCK.
Now lets say you lower your car by 3''. Now you've only got 2'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping. 2'' of suspension travel can be achieved in a heavy cornering situation or even a moderate pothole. If you cut your bumpstop by 1-2'', you will have 3-4'' of total suspension travel. Which with stiffer springs is pretty good. Almost equivalent to the 5'' of stock travel.
So that's why you need to cut down your bumpstop when you lower a car. So you still have a buffer zone, but the bumpstop doesnt get in the way in normal situations.
it takes a lot for springs to go bad - and no your springs are just fine - too soft is called stock springs.
sounds like you need to replace your strut mounts - you can get them at your local autoparts for $12
replace your strut mounts and DO NOT CUT YOUR BUMP STOPS.. that is the biggest load of b.s i have ever heard.
get the right bump stops and you'll be fine. oem ones are fine. i had stock oem bumpstops and they ran fine.
you can start off by adding in your bump stops and replacing your strut mounts.
if you want call tirerack and see what they say... they will explain it in full detail </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would shock mounts going bad have anything to do with him hitting his fender?
Why wouldn't you cut bumpstops for a lowered car?
IM MAKING UP THESE NUMBERS:
Lets say that your total stock suspension travel is about 8''. 0'' being sitting there with no weight on it (car on the ground). 8'' being the suspension at absolute travel. The bumpstop would probably kick in at about 5''. This leaves a buffer zone before your springs bind, and your shock pistons go thru your shock towers and hood. So that's 5'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping STOCK.
Now lets say you lower your car by 3''. Now you've only got 2'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping. 2'' of suspension travel can be achieved in a heavy cornering situation or even a moderate pothole. If you cut your bumpstop by 1-2'', you will have 3-4'' of total suspension travel. Which with stiffer springs is pretty good. Almost equivalent to the 5'' of stock travel.
So that's why you need to cut down your bumpstop when you lower a car. So you still have a buffer zone, but the bumpstop doesnt get in the way in normal situations.
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Re: Bumpstop question (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why would shock mounts going bad have anything to do with him hitting his fender?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
strut mounts are bushings that sit right under the the shock and on top of the shock... the same reason why any bushing goes bad in the car- they're rubber so they wear out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why wouldn't you cut bumpstops for a lowered car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
because of the reason of bottoming out - if you get new shocks you should get the right bump stop that goes with your shock - if your going kyb then stick with kyb bump stops or as tirerack calls in strut boots.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IM MAKING UP THESE NUMBERS:
Lets say that your total stock suspension travel is about 8''. 0'' being sitting there with no weight on it (car on the ground). 8'' being the suspension at absolute travel. The bumpstop would probably kick in at about 5''. This leaves a buffer zone before your springs bind, and your shock pistons go thru your shock towers and hood. So that's 5'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping STOCK.
Now lets say you lower your car by 3''. Now you've only got 2'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping. 2'' of suspension travel can be achieved in a heavy cornering situation or even a moderate pothole. If you cut your bumpstop by 1-2'', you will have 3-4'' of total suspension travel. Which with stiffer springs is pretty good. Almost equivalent to the 5'' of stock travel.
So that's why you need to cut down your bumpstop when you lower a car. So you still have a buffer zone, but the bumpstop doesnt get in the way in normal situations. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry but i don't deal with "make believe numbers" i'm speaking from experience.
when i lowered my 96 hatch i used the oem sturt mounts and cut the bump stops and my car rode like absolute **** - even thought i had a set of kyb agx and GC
i now have a 2000 hatch and i have a set of kyb gr2 with tien s springs and purchased new strut mounts and kyb strut boots for the rear and the oem ones for the front. the car runs like a factory car but lowered.
do this - install the oem bumpstops put your car together and go for a ride - when it continues to hit come back online and order kyb sturt boots - then put those in go for a ride and come back online and tell me what you feel.
once you've done this and it still doesn't work then cut your bump stops. you can always cut them later on - but don't make the same mistake i did or think that cutting your bumpstops will help you out
Why would shock mounts going bad have anything to do with him hitting his fender?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
strut mounts are bushings that sit right under the the shock and on top of the shock... the same reason why any bushing goes bad in the car- they're rubber so they wear out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why wouldn't you cut bumpstops for a lowered car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
because of the reason of bottoming out - if you get new shocks you should get the right bump stop that goes with your shock - if your going kyb then stick with kyb bump stops or as tirerack calls in strut boots.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IM MAKING UP THESE NUMBERS:
Lets say that your total stock suspension travel is about 8''. 0'' being sitting there with no weight on it (car on the ground). 8'' being the suspension at absolute travel. The bumpstop would probably kick in at about 5''. This leaves a buffer zone before your springs bind, and your shock pistons go thru your shock towers and hood. So that's 5'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping STOCK.
Now lets say you lower your car by 3''. Now you've only got 2'' of suspension travel before bumpstopping. 2'' of suspension travel can be achieved in a heavy cornering situation or even a moderate pothole. If you cut your bumpstop by 1-2'', you will have 3-4'' of total suspension travel. Which with stiffer springs is pretty good. Almost equivalent to the 5'' of stock travel.
So that's why you need to cut down your bumpstop when you lower a car. So you still have a buffer zone, but the bumpstop doesnt get in the way in normal situations. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry but i don't deal with "make believe numbers" i'm speaking from experience.
when i lowered my 96 hatch i used the oem sturt mounts and cut the bump stops and my car rode like absolute **** - even thought i had a set of kyb agx and GC
i now have a 2000 hatch and i have a set of kyb gr2 with tien s springs and purchased new strut mounts and kyb strut boots for the rear and the oem ones for the front. the car runs like a factory car but lowered.
do this - install the oem bumpstops put your car together and go for a ride - when it continues to hit come back online and order kyb sturt boots - then put those in go for a ride and come back online and tell me what you feel.
once you've done this and it still doesn't work then cut your bump stops. you can always cut them later on - but don't make the same mistake i did or think that cutting your bumpstops will help you out
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Re: Bumpstop question (EK9Rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
strut mounts are bushings that sit right under the the shock and on top of the shock... the same reason why any bushing goes bad in the car- they're rubber so they wear out
because of the reason of bottoming out - if you get new shocks you should get the right bump stop that goes with your shock - if your going kyb then stick with kyb bump stops or as tirerack calls in strut boots.
sorry but i don't deal with "make believe numbers" i'm speaking from experience.
when i lowered my 96 hatch i used the oem sturt mounts and cut the bump stops and my car rode like absolute **** - even thought i had a set of kyb agx and GC
i now have a 2000 hatch and i have a set of kyb gr2 with tien s springs and purchased new strut mounts and kyb strut boots for the rear and the oem ones for the front. the car runs like a factory car but lowered.
do this - install the oem bumpstops put your car together and go for a ride - when it continues to hit come back online and order kyb sturt boots - then put those in go for a ride and come back online and tell me what you feel.
once you've done this and it still doesn't work then cut your bump stops. you can always cut them later on - but don't make the same mistake i did or think that cutting your bumpstops will help you out</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again. What do strut mounts have to do with hitting the fender? You never answered the question. i know what strut mounts are. Thats why i know they have nothing to do with the tire hitting the fender.
I'm not so sure you understand what strut mounts are. They dont sit under the shock at all. They are on top of the shock at the point where the shock meets the strut tower.
Your 96 hatch had a completely different set up than your 00. you didnt think that maybe that was the reason for the difference in ride quality? Bumpstops DONT AFFECT RIDE UNLESS YOU'RE HITTING THEM. If you are hitting bumpstop, it means that either your set up sucks (shitty springs, too low, too soft, not enough compression damping on your shocks) or your bumpstop is too long. Also, whether you're hitting a KYB bumpstop or an OEM bumpstop, they're going to feel the same once you hit them. Compression and then a sudden stop.
Why would the KYB stops be better than OEM? Either you didnt cut them enough, or your set up sucked if the bumpstops are being hit.
strut mounts are bushings that sit right under the the shock and on top of the shock... the same reason why any bushing goes bad in the car- they're rubber so they wear out
because of the reason of bottoming out - if you get new shocks you should get the right bump stop that goes with your shock - if your going kyb then stick with kyb bump stops or as tirerack calls in strut boots.
sorry but i don't deal with "make believe numbers" i'm speaking from experience.
when i lowered my 96 hatch i used the oem sturt mounts and cut the bump stops and my car rode like absolute **** - even thought i had a set of kyb agx and GC
i now have a 2000 hatch and i have a set of kyb gr2 with tien s springs and purchased new strut mounts and kyb strut boots for the rear and the oem ones for the front. the car runs like a factory car but lowered.
do this - install the oem bumpstops put your car together and go for a ride - when it continues to hit come back online and order kyb sturt boots - then put those in go for a ride and come back online and tell me what you feel.
once you've done this and it still doesn't work then cut your bump stops. you can always cut them later on - but don't make the same mistake i did or think that cutting your bumpstops will help you out</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again. What do strut mounts have to do with hitting the fender? You never answered the question. i know what strut mounts are. Thats why i know they have nothing to do with the tire hitting the fender.
I'm not so sure you understand what strut mounts are. They dont sit under the shock at all. They are on top of the shock at the point where the shock meets the strut tower.
Your 96 hatch had a completely different set up than your 00. you didnt think that maybe that was the reason for the difference in ride quality? Bumpstops DONT AFFECT RIDE UNLESS YOU'RE HITTING THEM. If you are hitting bumpstop, it means that either your set up sucks (shitty springs, too low, too soft, not enough compression damping on your shocks) or your bumpstop is too long. Also, whether you're hitting a KYB bumpstop or an OEM bumpstop, they're going to feel the same once you hit them. Compression and then a sudden stop.
Why would the KYB stops be better than OEM? Either you didnt cut them enough, or your set up sucked if the bumpstops are being hit.
#24
#1 Super Guy
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Re: Bumpstop question (B serious)
If the strut-mounts have an extended hat like the ones shown in my avatar, they allow the shock to travel further upward before bottoming out on the bump-stop. This in turn allows the wheel and all other suspension components to travel further upward as well. This increased "compression" travel can easily allow the tire to hit the inside of the fender well, or cause the upper control arm to crash into the shock tower. Either one would be bad...
#25
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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Re: Bumpstop question (94eg!)
So....you're saying that aftermarket strut mounts cause the wheel to stop before hitting the fender?
The guy said his wheel was hitting his fender. You wanted him to replace his strut mounts with mounts that had more travel? Wouldnt that just mean that the wheel would be able to travel farther? The stock one would stop the wheel 2 inches into the fender...while an aftermarket one with a deeper bowl would allow the wheel to keep going 4 inches into the fender.
Regardless of how far the wheel is allowed to travel, the fender still stays in the same place, right?
Let me rephrase my question. What does the strut mount have to do with preventing the wheel from hitting the fender?
The guy said his wheel was hitting his fender. You wanted him to replace his strut mounts with mounts that had more travel? Wouldnt that just mean that the wheel would be able to travel farther? The stock one would stop the wheel 2 inches into the fender...while an aftermarket one with a deeper bowl would allow the wheel to keep going 4 inches into the fender.
Regardless of how far the wheel is allowed to travel, the fender still stays in the same place, right?
Let me rephrase my question. What does the strut mount have to do with preventing the wheel from hitting the fender?