TurboEG600

I work almost everyday and I need to do something with my hurting b18c. The rod knock is now getting to the point where i am paying attention to it all the time. Its still runs great but dies coming to a stop and has the classic knock...

So, do I grab another block, buy pistons, rods, bearings etc, and build one up myslef or should I go with a store bought short block built to take 500+ hp.

I have a .76 AR compressor, Garret turbo with a t3 inlet and exhaust outlet. 1000cc AEM injectors, Brian Crower stage 3 cams, 9.0:1 Arias pistons, Manley rods, GE sleeves, AEM FPR, Warlboro 155lph pump TIAL wg, Ebay BOV with Greddy RS bov diaphragm, Fluidyne radiator, FAL fan, EBAY Greddy knock off catch can.

I have ran 34 psi on this setup before things got bad shortly after buying the car. verified via Hondata s300, as my gauge only goes to 30 psi. The car was running in open loop with an ebay gt35 at the time. The turbo was in bad shape, and the turbine shaft seized shortly after removal. The car ran for a while well under loop, I thought I had it in closed loop properly with my AEM wideband but, it appears i had tapped the wrong side of the the harness grabbing the white wire frome the 6 wire pig tail. I needed the 4 wire pigtails white wire. Once i got this hooked up and everything was running perfectly, I was able to fully determine that my engine has rod knock. I thought it was just because I was running 84.5mm and GSR crank, and it was making that slightly abnormal vibe.

I would like to stay as close to 2L as possible but if anyone knows of some magically cheaper lower displacement bore lmk.

I know how to build a damn good b and k and have built 50+ before both street and race engines turbo and n/a between series. I still will need to have everything dropped off at a machine shop for lack of tools/machinery.

WHAT DO I DO???

I am poor and right now it looks like ERL offers a complete short block for 2400+ Im thinking of that and getting the 84.5 bore with JE/Manley Pro combo but again i am poor. there has to be a better way especially since i am experienced....

Is there a cheaper way?


Thanks guys,

D16SiHatch

Doing the research and building it yourself will almost always be cheaper than paying someone to do it. You don't need the most complex tools in the world to assemble a bottom end.

redm3turbo

^ thats your answer.
if you can, save yourself paying someone else 40-50/hr to do work you can do yourself.

TurboEG600

Well with ERL selling blocks starting at 2400.00. This is about as cheap as i can do it. I would need to send everything to a machine shop after i acquire a second block, rods, pistons, etc, . This my DD so i can only afford to have it down for a day while I swap in the the new shorty.

How long will this thing last if i stay out of boost? I know this is a terrible question, but I am so broke right now. the wear is minimal and very little material in the vtec solenoid screen. It just started randomly stalling out coming to a stop, more so only when its warm.

Im in the philly area so lmk if anyone has any GSR blocks

I'm kinda just in shock still. Wish i had been the one to build this motor in the first place :-(

so at that price and having to do the running around is it worth it?

Also what if i throw a stock GSR block in there for now, how much boost can i run with moderate safety. The tune is ******* great, that i did do myself :-)

So any ideas i don't care how ridiculous.....

TurboEG600

Oh the prices were for non-sleeved blocks. DOH! What other good shortblock builders are out there and do they want a core too?

Schister66

I dont see the point in scrapping a sleeved block due to a rod knock. Worst case scenario, you buy another crank, rods and bearings and slap it all together with the existing pistons. If you have no piston slap and the bores are in good condition, I would hesitate to get rid of it.

Once you tear into it, check the journals and get them polished/ground and find another set of bearings to fit it. I would also have the rods checked for out-of-round...just to be sure you dont create the same problem again.

EDIT:

I'm confused...are you trying to decide whether to build or buy a second block to swap in? OR are you deciding whether or not to salvage the current block?

TurboEG600

Yeah, no matter what I was gonna keep the block and redo it as a 2nd motor. I work all the time and want to get it running again as quickly as possible. So, I was thinking of building or buying a new complete short block with comparable specs or just dropping in a stock b16/b18 block while I fix up the old one. The cost and time between what it takes me to build a sleeved short block, driving to the machine shop waiting for the block to get back from sleeving and etc, etc. Its ends up being very close to what ERL is selling as a turbo/street/strip short block.

I am having tons of trouble even finding a clean stock short block. Maybe i could get a reman-ed, but I don't know if I trust any of these companies. Also it is slim pickings on ebay and craigslist nowadays.

I am thinking my best option is buy a block off ebay/craigslist and put in stock parts with some ACL bearings. This way I have time and can make sure the new block is ready to rip @ 100% of its potential.

I know i can leave the motor in the car and pull everything except the rods and pistons. but what if that rod got hurt, btw its is forged and its pretty early on still? I could just gauge the bearings and send the crank to get checked? I only have one or 2 days down time to get it done. and save all the money and time of swapping in a new block.


IDK, I am panicking and just need a couple of opinions.

Schister66

I had an old auto's teacher who bought and sold cars with rod knock. He would replace the bearings with new ones (remove oil pan and girdle, uncap rods and replace bearings) and run a slightly heavier weight oil. He said that it'd give him another 5k miles or so out of the engine before the problem would reappear. Doing something similar might give you enough time to make a sound, rational decision about your best option.

I'm currently building a block for a friend and I know what you mean about the time it takes to get **** put together. After running to the machinist, then to the dealership to order parts, then back and forth...it gets time consuming. If you have the funds, I would almost buy an engine and swap it out. You know the ERL engine is built properly and built to last...to me, that's worth a little extra $$. You have quite the decision on your hands

bgdriver

Just get a ls or b20 from a wrecked car at a local scrapyard and run that around at 10-15 psi until you can get your other block back together.