Megalodong

A metal or pvc extension pipe that fits around the socket wrench or regular wrench you're using. Extra length equals extra torque..just ask my (megalodong's) wife..lol
Spraying PB Blaster on the bolt and allowing to soak in for 30 mintuts or more may help as well.

Frozti

So just to clarify, I can loosen the bolt on the tensioner and that will be enough to get some slack without having to remove lower timing cover? Because removing that is a real bitch.

Edit: There's no room to torque it...

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

yes, that's the idea of the tensioner. dont worry about proper torque, just get it nice and tight.

Frozti

The old man just went out and got it loose + timing belt on. Idk if there's a torque spec for the tensioner but it wouldnt do me any good, cant fit torque wrench in there. Need to make sure it's at tdc now, I spun the crank the wrong way a bit before moving it back to tdc, haynes says that's a nono...

Megalodong

I want to say the spec torque is 33 ft lbs but not 100% sure on that. If you tightened it down with a decent length socket wrench to a point you were afraid that you might strip threads if you went further ..then it should be fine. As far as spinning the crank in the wrong direction (clockwise) how much is a bit?
Using a clock as reference and say TDC equaled the socket wrench handle at 12 o'clock. You rotated it counter-clockwise to say 1 or 2 o'clock position past TDC and then you rotated it clockwise to get back to TDC (12 o'clock) then you're fine,,not enough to bend valves.

Frozti

It runs. Got everything back together and it fired right up, sounds like it's running smooth. Less noise coming from the head than my last one for sure. Idles a little weird if I tap the throttle, must need to do the re-learn. What's strange is my check engine light was on before starting this repair from when I adjusted the idle... Well when I fired it up today, no CEL... Battery disconnect cause this?

My list of stuff to do:
- replace the 2 exhaust mani nuts I lost
- adjust ignition timing
- flush coolant multiple times
- a few more oil changes ;P

Looks like I have another project after this, the rubber on my axle joints were split wide open...

Megalodong

Yes, and it will most likely return within the next month.

Are you saying there are two nuts missing from the where (studs) the exhaust manifold connects to the cylinder head? If that's the case replace those as soon as possible or risk the exhaaust manifold warping. Also, it could develop an exhaust leak that could effect o2 sensor readings..causing a lean condition.

If you catch it early you can just replace the boot otherwise dirt and grime combined with the loss of grease will wear that particular axle joint out pretty quickly. Replacing the boot is the same amount of work as replacing the whole Cv axle half shaft. For that reason most choose to just replace the CV axle instead of boot. I have the same issue..passenger side outer axle boot is torn. I priced booth the boot $25 and the half shaft $65..so. for the additional $40 I figure might as well get a new part to replace the old part. Go with a new part and not re-manufactured.

Frozti

Well, crap. The car runs smoother for sure but the issue of rough starts is still there. Started it this morning fine. Started it leaving from work fine. Stopped at the bank on the way home and it was a rough start but not too bad, and the idle was really low for about ten minutes. It appears I'm not losing coolant anymore, haven't flushed it yet. HG was definitely bad but what now? Should I make a new post?

Edit: I think it would be a fuel pressure issue. I briefly tested it with a rental kit and got about 32-33