Broken heater...only works on setting 4
#1
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LOUD HEATER = NO *****
What up guys. here is the deal ( I have searched. others have problems with cold air ).... My heater doesnt work on settings 1 or 2. yet on 3 and 4 it makes a ******* LOUD *** nosie!! See I could care less. I just wont use the thing. BUT! When going on a date.... mos def not too cool... "your cold?... okay... mmmm, just to warn you...." You see the problem?!! if you have any help for me let me know!! Also the sound comes from under the glove box. -thanks kenneth.
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (Skapeoner)
Move to Florida, I've lived here all my life and can count the number of times ive needed the heater on one hand, latina chics are hotter anyway! =D
No, seriously though, if your saying that when you put your fan setting on 1 or 2 no noise, and then you got noise on 3 or 4, then its something with the fan motor, your heater has no moving parts, its basically a radiator inside your car, the system blows air over it, which is heated by the water flowing into it from your engine.
Does it make noise when you put the AC on and move it to 3 or 4, I am assuming you dont live a place you use your AC often.. Check that, if it doesnt, then MAYBE the piece that re-routes the air to the heater isnt setting properly and its causing the fan to bump it..
No, seriously though, if your saying that when you put your fan setting on 1 or 2 no noise, and then you got noise on 3 or 4, then its something with the fan motor, your heater has no moving parts, its basically a radiator inside your car, the system blows air over it, which is heated by the water flowing into it from your engine.
Does it make noise when you put the AC on and move it to 3 or 4, I am assuming you dont live a place you use your AC often.. Check that, if it doesnt, then MAYBE the piece that re-routes the air to the heater isnt setting properly and its causing the fan to bump it..
#4
Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (Skapeoner)
Sounds like your blower is shot. I'm no expert. The blower is that black platstic thing underneath/behind the glove box. Go to Autozone or wherever you get your car stuff and ask em how much for a new one. I remeber reading about the blower in my Haynes. It didn't seem to difficult to replace.
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a screaching/screaming type of noise?
it is probably crap that has fallen into the fan. You'd be surprised how much random crap was in mine when it started making noise.
It could also be a dry bearings in the fan motor itself.
My suggestion, pull the blower motor (three screws under your glove box) and clean anything out of it.
If that doesn't fix it, replace the heater motor. Used ~$25.
If setting 1-2 still doesn't work then replace the blower resistor as well.
it is probably crap that has fallen into the fan. You'd be surprised how much random crap was in mine when it started making noise.
It could also be a dry bearings in the fan motor itself.
My suggestion, pull the blower motor (three screws under your glove box) and clean anything out of it.
If that doesn't fix it, replace the heater motor. Used ~$25.
If setting 1-2 still doesn't work then replace the blower resistor as well.
#6
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (Jack8788)
It's the blower that is making the noise.
they will run you about $100. They arn't "hard" to replace. They are a pain in the **** though as it requires the full removal of the dash to get to it.
good luck
edit: it depends on the year of your car, I know mine was behind the dash bar making it very hard to reach. 92-95 may be easier.
they will run you about $100. They arn't "hard" to replace. They are a pain in the **** though as it requires the full removal of the dash to get to it.
good luck
edit: it depends on the year of your car, I know mine was behind the dash bar making it very hard to reach. 92-95 may be easier.
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Re: (Defile)
blower motor resistor.
Loud noise though could be something stuck in the cage, or bushings on the motor are worn. But it doesn't work in setting 1 and 2 because of the blower motor resistor.
Loud noise though could be something stuck in the cage, or bushings on the motor are worn. But it doesn't work in setting 1 and 2 because of the blower motor resistor.
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Re: (Tuesdaynightfever)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tuesdaynightfever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about if the heater makes no strong noise on 3 and 4, but still doesn't work on setting 1 and 2...still the blower?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. its the blower resistor.
EDIT: refresh owns me
no. its the blower resistor.
EDIT: refresh owns me
#12
Re: (94hatchling)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchling »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no. its the blower resistor.
EDIT: refresh owns me</TD></TR></TABLE>
happen to me went to a junk yard and got a resistor and work like normal
EDIT: refresh owns me</TD></TR></TABLE>
happen to me went to a junk yard and got a resistor and work like normal
#13
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (Vero)
Its the blower motor. I just bought a new several months ago for $120.
Easy to replace.....3 screws hold it on. Only problem is its a pain in the *** to get to it. Its right under the glove box, near the ECU. You haev to get into an awkward position....watch your back..haha.
But other then that......very easy to replace yourself.
Sidenote: Mine was quiet on settings 3 and 4....but on the slower settings it was loud as hell.
DAN
Easy to replace.....3 screws hold it on. Only problem is its a pain in the *** to get to it. Its right under the glove box, near the ECU. You haev to get into an awkward position....watch your back..haha.
But other then that......very easy to replace yourself.
Sidenote: Mine was quiet on settings 3 and 4....but on the slower settings it was loud as hell.
DAN
#14
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (Skapeoner)
It is definitely the resistor block. It is mounted on the blower housing with two philips screws. The reason the blower works in high only is that position is a direct path to ground. Where positions 1, 2, and 3 go through the resistor block and then to ground. Position number 1 has the most resistance, number 2 slightly less, number and number 3 is the least other than position #4. Its cheap and easy to replace.
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (tpr)
I hate to say this, but.
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.
The loud-*** noise is coming from the blower motor due to cavitation of the blower fan itself, which if left in it's present state will get louder and LOUDER AND LOUDER, till ultimatly the bearings completly give out and it starts shitting pieces of itself into your air ducts. Here's what you do:
1. Suck it up and go get another blower motor assembly.
2. Pull your glove compatment out.
3. Replace your old blower with the new one.
4. Replace glove box.
5. Enjoy your newfound dating success.
6. Name him/her after me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is definitely the resistor block. It is mounted on the blower housing with two philips screws. The reason the blower works in high only is that position is a direct path to ground. Where positions 1, 2, and 3 go through the resistor block and then to ground. Position number 1 has the most resistance, number 2 slightly less, number and number 3 is the least other than position #4. Its cheap and easy to replace.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejonemydm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
happen to me went to a junk yard and got a resistor and work like normal</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.
The loud-*** noise is coming from the blower motor due to cavitation of the blower fan itself, which if left in it's present state will get louder and LOUDER AND LOUDER, till ultimatly the bearings completly give out and it starts shitting pieces of itself into your air ducts. Here's what you do:
1. Suck it up and go get another blower motor assembly.
2. Pull your glove compatment out.
3. Replace your old blower with the new one.
4. Replace glove box.
5. Enjoy your newfound dating success.
6. Name him/her after me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is definitely the resistor block. It is mounted on the blower housing with two philips screws. The reason the blower works in high only is that position is a direct path to ground. Where positions 1, 2, and 3 go through the resistor block and then to ground. Position number 1 has the most resistance, number 2 slightly less, number and number 3 is the least other than position #4. Its cheap and easy to replace.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejonemydm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
happen to me went to a junk yard and got a resistor and work like normal</TD></TR></TABLE>
#16
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (scuzz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scuzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to say this, but.
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
myself, and others towards the end of this post were in response to Tuesdaynightfever. at least i was.
to the OP, goodluck, and have fun
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
myself, and others towards the end of this post were in response to Tuesdaynightfever. at least i was.
to the OP, goodluck, and have fun
#18
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Re: LOUD HEATER = NO ***** (scuzz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scuzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to say this, but.
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.
The loud-*** noise is coming from the blower motor due to cavitation of the blower fan itself, which if left in it's present state will get louder and LOUDER AND LOUDER, till ultimatly the bearings completly give out and it starts shitting pieces of itself into your air ducts. Here's what you do:
1. Suck it up and go get another blower motor assembly.
2. Pull your glove compatment out.
3. Replace your old blower with the new one.
4. Replace glove box.
5. Enjoy your newfound dating success.
6. Name him/her after me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to put you down too much as I do agree with at least part of the problem being the blower motor (as several others have said) but... Unless he's running the car underwater the chances of the blower motor causing cavitation are quite low (or he's managed to get the hamster wheel fan blade spinning at supersonic speed and the noise he's hearing is something like an older design helicopter rotor breaking the sound barrier/tip vortices... still not cavitation though...). If you're gonna be an *** you must be right about everything you're saying... here's some lite reading on cavitation http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation
Now that that's settled I'd do what Relic1 said but with a minor change... (I'd say you're gonna end up replacing both parts)
My suggestion, pull the blower motor (three screws under your glove box) and clean anything out of it.
If that doesn't fix it, replace the heater motor. Used ~$25.
Go get laid....
If setting 1-2 still doesn't work then replace the blower resistor as well.
Modified by miahmouse at 3:06 PM 3/28/2006
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.
The loud-*** noise is coming from the blower motor due to cavitation of the blower fan itself, which if left in it's present state will get louder and LOUDER AND LOUDER, till ultimatly the bearings completly give out and it starts shitting pieces of itself into your air ducts. Here's what you do:
1. Suck it up and go get another blower motor assembly.
2. Pull your glove compatment out.
3. Replace your old blower with the new one.
4. Replace glove box.
5. Enjoy your newfound dating success.
6. Name him/her after me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to put you down too much as I do agree with at least part of the problem being the blower motor (as several others have said) but... Unless he's running the car underwater the chances of the blower motor causing cavitation are quite low (or he's managed to get the hamster wheel fan blade spinning at supersonic speed and the noise he's hearing is something like an older design helicopter rotor breaking the sound barrier/tip vortices... still not cavitation though...). If you're gonna be an *** you must be right about everything you're saying... here's some lite reading on cavitation http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation
Now that that's settled I'd do what Relic1 said but with a minor change... (I'd say you're gonna end up replacing both parts)
My suggestion, pull the blower motor (three screws under your glove box) and clean anything out of it.
If that doesn't fix it, replace the heater motor. Used ~$25.
Go get laid....
If setting 1-2 still doesn't work then replace the blower resistor as well.
Modified by miahmouse at 3:06 PM 3/28/2006
#21
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Re: (Skapeoner)
I'm pretty sure replacing just the blower motor is going to fix the problem. The blower motor possibly bad due to noise = prolly true. But blower motor resistor is done = true.
#22
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Re: (ABK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blower motor resistor.
Loud noise though could be something stuck in the cage, or bushings on the motor are worn. But it doesn't work in setting 1 and 2 because of the blower motor resistor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yuppers. usually when they go south, they only work on speed 4.
Loud noise though could be something stuck in the cage, or bushings on the motor are worn. But it doesn't work in setting 1 and 2 because of the blower motor resistor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yuppers. usually when they go south, they only work on speed 4.
#23
Re: (Tuesdaynightfever)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tuesdaynightfever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about if the heater makes no strong noise on 3 and 4, but still doesn't work on setting 1 and 2...still the blower?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds like there is a problem in either the switch or the blower circuit. I would take out the switch and either replace it or test it. If it works on 3 and 4 then it is not the actual blower motor.
It sounds like there is a problem in either the switch or the blower circuit. I would take out the switch and either replace it or test it. If it works on 3 and 4 then it is not the actual blower motor.