reed857

alright helping a buddy out with this shim kit that he got peiced from home depot. we did one side just fine no real issues. went to do the other side and bolt was being a bit stubborn. well long story short he cross threaded it. when he went to pull it out the bolt broke. any one know the size of the hole? I am thinkg m10 1.25. I am sure tis 1.25 but not sure about the size. any ideas?

does anyone know the type of metal it is? I dont want to fix it and then a few days later have them come out. thanks in advance.

reed857

bump cause I am f'ed. tried everything that I know how to do. bolt is broken in there. reversing the bit wont help there is a big hole in the center of the bolt now. any ideas? safe to drive with one of them in there? I think tht he is going to try and drive so any reassurance would be great. thanks.

vtec4lyfe

DO NOT DRIVE. I am sure the bolt is seized in their but i it worth loosing control at high speeds and wrecking your car and maybe even seriously injuring yourself? It might take a few hours but you are going to have to get it out whether its with a drill, a dremel tool with grinding bits, heating, using liquid wrench but just dont give up. I had spent 3 hours cutting, grinding, hammering out a broken rear LCA bolt and it just took time

best of luck

reed857

thanks for the advice. we spent about 3 hours working on it yesterday. drilled a big hole in the center while trying to drill it out but didnt work.

Does anyone think that if I get a tap and just make the hole the part of the bolt that is left will hold? does that make sense? going to order the tap today. bump for some more help.

perseverance

use a unibit. and drill forever. it'll break the bolt into pieces and fall right out.

reed857

unibit? I will search for one? different sizes?

reed857

I was looking at the unibits and I seen them only in standard. would they work just as good. and when taping the hole do you think that we should go to a m12 or stay with a m10?

CRX T-Si

I am pretty sure it's an M10 x 1.25 thread. It's the 14mm bolt on the UCL right?

If you have access to a welder you can weld something onto the bolt and try to twist that **** out but if you don't then your drill is your friend.

Drill small hole then go bigger and bigger till you get everything out and see if you can salvage it by re-tapping the threads, if not then just make new ones.

I did this before on my CRX where the adjustment bolt under the car was rusted to the trailing arm and it took me 2.5 hours to get it off. Lots of cutting, drilling, cursing and **** flying in my face.

Good luck man.

92redhatch

i had to drill one of those out once. it took 10 minutes. just start with a small drill bit and work your way up till the bolt breaks. make sure your using a powerful drill.

reed857

yeah I feel you on that one. so we pretty much have the whole bolt out. but there is still alittle bit in there. any oposition on retapping with the little bit of bolt still in there? I think that it will be fine and there is really not that much stress on that peice (from what it looks like). it is the 14mm bolt and it is m10 1.25.

I put the left lower bolt in and tightened it as much as I could and it was not lined up with the other hole with the bolt in it. but then I put the tire on and lowered the car and released and put back on the ebrake and when I went to check it the other hole was lined up perfect. that tells me that there is not much stresss on the first bolt and wont be on the second bolt so I think that I am going to be fine with tapping the hole with part of the bolt in it.

92redhatch

i say you take out the bolt completely that way you dont worry about it later. It shouldn't that more than 10 minutes.

reed857

well our only issue with that is that when we started it wasnt completly center. so if I drill bigger and bigger its going to go the the original hole. and then a m10 will not fit. I did order a m10 and m12 1.25 tap just to be safe but I dont have any m12 1.25 bolts. and I am not sure that an m12 will fit in the arm hole. I think that the guts of the bolt are just as strong as the metal that the bolt was oringinally in. I dont have any helicoils nor do I have any experience with doing that.