Milano97

Ok...It's my first time to bleed the brakes on my car, 97 Civic EX Coupe, and lo and behold, the bleeder screws in the drums are broken. The one's in the front caliper are good but not the drums. They are like gone, part of the screw is inside the wheel cylinder, the other half with the nipple is just gone. I never really looked at the brakes in the back, so I didn't really bother looking at the screws. Anyway, if I was to replace the wheel cylinders in the drums, will the wheel cylinder come off WITH the broken bleeder screw inside? Or does the screw have to be removed in order for the wheel cylinder to be removed? It's kind of impossible...it's down deep in the wheel cylinder...I have a Helm's, but it's not specific on whether you have to remove the bleeder screw or not to replace the cylinder...any help would be appreciated...Oh yeah, and thanks to that guy who replied to my other post about the drum-disc conversion...

CBR

Last time I checked, I believe the bleeder screw is part of the wheel cylinder assembly. It all comes out as one piece. The new wheel cylinder should come with a new bleer screw.

Word of advice before installing new wheel cylinder: Take the new bleeder screw out and put some antiseize on it. Screw it back in, then bleed your brakes.

rus

Man, it is a royal pain in the ***. I had a speed bleeder( :thumbdown snap on me in the left rear drum. It was a long night...

So here's what you do. Get your buddy to drive you to sears and pick up a set of tools that look like a 4-sided wedge - square cross-section gets progressively wider. Bang one in the bleeder screw so it bends the metal of the screw and grips hard, and slowly turn it with plyers or wice grips. It will take some time...

Get new bleeder screws, put anti-sieze on them. You have to bleed the entire system now as I'm sure you're parked in a nice puddle of DOT3. Hope this helps, let me know if you need more info.

Milano97

Thanks for the replies guys...I already tried to remove the screw by driving a 5/32 Hex Wrench into it and turning it...it turned about 2 revolutions then the hex wrench lost it's bite against the walls of the screw and came out. Now it's really stuck in there. That why I was hoping that the bleeder screw and wheel cylinder are all one assembly piece that can come out as one without having to remove the leftover bleeder screw from the wheel cylinder. When I looked it didn't seem like it...it seemed like the bleeder screw was part of the drum assembly...brake shoes are a pain in the *** to do, that's why I'm doing research so I don't totally waste my time...I'm starting a 60 mile commute round trip the college in two weeks and my brakes need to be in top shape, lots of city driving. Thanks again guys.

Milano97

lol man...yeah I stopped already, thanks for the tip. Yeah, I have that wrench already for the brake line fitting, so it's cool.

rus

First go to Sears and pick up "Easy Out" set, as described in my earlier post.
Then go to Honda dealer and spend a few bucks on a new bleeder screw. Pick up an extra if you plan to break them in the future.

Jack up the rear corner, put some jack stands underneath (I don't want to hear about H-T member crushed by his Civic), and bang the easy-out tool into the broken screw. Because of the shape, it will work much better than allen wrenches you were using.

Slowly turn "easy out" thing. Keep it straight and apply pressure so it doesn't come out. If you do it carefully enough, 2 (long and painful) minutes later you'd have the broken screw out. Put the new one back with some anti-seize, don't overtorque it, and get your buddy to help you bleed the brakes.

Good luck, and make sure your brakes are nice and solid before you begin your school commute.

Offer

Whats up guys, I didnt wanna start a new thread for nothing anyways..... i replaced my rear shoes and I broke the rear-left bleeder bolt......i have an extractor kit to remove the bolt so that shoudn't be a problem.....My question is after i remove the bleeder and instal the new one, alot of fluid will have escaped. Now, if there is no more fluid at, do i have to bledd the master cylinder or just the four brakes ? need some help with this thanks !!

spork motorsports

if you bleed all the brakes itll blled the entire system

what i do is get a jar fill with new dot3, then put a hose on bleeder and other end in jar, everytime it spits air into the jar, itll suck more fluid in, do it to all 4 until you see no air bubles and ur done , its bettrer than the speed bleeder set, i even used to do it at work

Offer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spork motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you bleed all the brakes itll blled the entire system

what i do is get a jar fill with new dot3, then put a hose on bleeder and other end in jar, everytime it spits air into the jar, itll suck more fluid in, do it to all 4 until you see no air bubles and ur done , its bettrer than the speed bleeder set, i even used to do it at work </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that for bleeding the whole system or just one brake ?? Or do you mean that i dont have to worry about the broken screw (since it's not leaking) and do the thing you explained on the other drum and bleed the whole system from there ??



Modified by Offer at 1:10 PM 10/26/2006

spork motorsports

no replace the broken screw, bleed the entier system by bleeding all 4 brakes long enough