When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes, it's a direct plug n play swap. But also, if you add one wire to your USDM 5th Gen, you get combined wiper/washer function using the 6G ICU. Meaning, pull the stalk forward and it sprays and wipes together in one step instead of the two-step need to spray then turn on the wiper. CDM cars already do this. USDM didn't add this function until the 6th Gen Civic.
Steering wheel is installed, horn tested and works like a charm.
The added blue/red horn wire to the new (to this vehicle) slip ring.
The tap into the original line, coated with liquid electrical tape. Heat shrink tubing wasn't an option being the original wire wasn't cut just exposed the a small portion to solder to.
Placing the wheel, making sure the front wheels are straight, testing the turn signal return and testing the horn before buttoning up.
Job finished, steering nut torqued to 36 ft-lbs with a dab of loctite blue on it. Emblem returned and covers snapped and screwed back into place.
I will mention, I really like the 8 ball shaped shift ***. Really enjoy the feel of it over the stock shift ***.
Absolutely love the car and this thread. Wish there was a way to bookmark threads so when this one gets to be 100+ posts long I wouldn't have to scroll through all the posts everytime I open it.
Round two of making the ghetto velocity stack from a portion of the silcone adapter and Permatex "The Right Stuff" black. Got it a lot smoother and closer to the proper shape. One more round and it should be pretty good. Had to cut off a couple of little bumps and anomolies prepping for round three.
My shaping tools coupled with vaseline coated fingers smoothes it out pretty well. Shaping tool before and after. Got lots of that hose so can keep making that little shaper as many times as I need.
The mid pipe had a significant rust area so I am using spider patch to reinforce and protect the rusted area after spraying it with rust converter a couple of times and drying over night.
Picked up another package to finish wrapping the compromised area. This should extend the life of that pipe before I have to be concerned about replacing it.
And yes, I know, my garage is a serious mess right now. I got **** scattered all over the place, but it's still working out well for me lol.
Absolutely love the car and this thread. Wish there was a way to bookmark threads so when this one gets to be 100+ posts long I wouldn't have to scroll through all the posts everytime I open it.
I just go to the last page and scroll up to the last post I read.
Too funny. I figured it would be better to have close to a velocity stack for an adapter than a rough abrupt transition. I'd hate to create a cancelling resonance in the air tube.
I'd really like to find a stock VX air tube but it's a rare bird to find and it's discontinued at Honda.
I'm more concerned about hurting the breathing of the car and in turn hurting the fuel efficiency.
Anyways, today I swapped the right upper control arm as the ball joint was shot. The used one I put in is worn but not sloppy. It should last a little while before I have to do it again.
Started unhooking things from the transmission and drained it. Popped the right lower ball joint in prep for pulling the axle out of the tranny. Need to do the same thing on the left side. Also need to slide under the car and deal with the bitch pin and support bar and undo the rear transmission mount.
Surprisingly, the front torque mounts look to be in pretty decent shape and the trailing arm bushings look newish which I've never seen before. Some stuff has been updated and done properly, and others.....
Anyways, done messing with the car for today.
Oh and the passenger floor is wet. I suspect I get to deal with the frame seam seal issue.
😂😂😂 That is great. I'm gonna make a velocity stack to put on my y7 for time being until im ready for the z6 swap. Being the throttle body is facing up in the y7 I could run it straight up out of the hood! Just not sure how to arvert the rain.
������ That is great. I'm gonna make a velocity stack to put on my y7 for time being until im ready for the z6 swap. Being the throttle body is facing up in the y7 I could run it straight up out of the hood! Just not sure how to arvert the rain.
The only time you see open velocity stack(s) is typically on drag cars.
In street vehicles the stack is typically built into a quality filter. Look up AEM's dry flow filter, you will see they incorporate a stack in the filter.
In my particular case, I'm going from a 2.5 inch air tube to a 2 inch throttle body mouth. Instead of constricting the air and creating a massive bottle neck just before the air enters the intake manifold, I'm trying to smooth the air flow reduction out to maintain efficient flow into the engine. Like I said, if I had a choice, I would use a stock VX air tube that gradually narrows from the 2.5 or 3 inch air box opening down to the 2 inch throttle body, but since I can't right now, I have to make sure I don't starve the engine of air or it's going to hiccup and fart badly and not get the fuel economy it's supposed to. I'm not doing it for gimmicky reasons. "My car is stacked brah!!"
In your case you have the stock air box and tube. So it's already optimized for your car.
The only time you see open velocity stack(s) is typically on drag cars.
In street vehicles the stack is typically built into a quality filter. Look up AEM's dry flow filter, you will see they incorporate a stack in the filter.
In my particular case, I'm going from a 2.5 inch air tube to a 2 inch throttle body mouth. Instead of constricting the air and creating a massive bottle neck just before the air enters the intake manifold, I'm trying to smooth the air flow reduction out to maintain efficient flow into the engine. Like I said, if I had a choice, I would use a stock VX air tube that gradually narrows from the 2.5 or 3 inch air box opening down to the 2 inch throttle body, but since I can't right now, I have to make sure I don't starve the engine of air or it's going to hiccup and fart badly and not get the fuel economy it's supposed to. I'm not doing it for gimmicky reasons. "My car is stacked brah!!"
In your case you have the stock air box and tube. So it's already optimized for your car.
Well, see that's part of the issue. The only piece of the intake system that is left on my car (after the throttle body of course) is the big plastic air filter box that sits on top of the throttle body. So anything has to be more efficient than what I have. Especially a big box sitting on top of the motor sucking in all that hot air off the engine. I could see where a stack would benefit me. Could be why my car seems to run rich as it's probably being starved of oxygen.
See what I'm saying? I bought the car this way, and yeah I could go buy all the factory crap from Pull A Part, but why not attempt to create something that is more efficient and looks 100x better?
The throttle plate is a big restriction in the intake. The more you open it the worse the mpg gets.
Yeah I get that but also know the car is tuned from factory with a 2 inch inlet. In my situation I was going to have a 2.5 inch to 2 inch step. The result is the actual inlet of airflow is more like a 1 inch maybe 1.5 inch. Not what the car was tuned with by any means.
My hopes is the velocity stack converts the 2.5 inch to 2 inch smooth enough that it is still acting like a stock 2 inch inlet, or simply, acts like what the car was tuned for from factory.
It's my understanding you have to retune anytime you change the intake, whether it's throttle body or plenum or runners or intake tube etc to maximize efficiency and if you don't some changes can actually have a negative effect.
Originally Posted by deschlong
Idea: Check for USDM CXs (with same VX intake) or VXs on Row52. Connect with a parts puller online and see if they can sort you out.
Hot damn deschlong, I had no clue about part pullers. That is really kewl! Much easier to find that tube in the states being it's on all CX and VX models. Not quite the same situation up here in Canuck land.
Definitely learn a thing or two about stock restoration around yall!!
Today I did my third pass on my homemade intake adapter and I am pretty happy with the results. Not perfect like a machined piece but the radius turned out pretty good overall for being a liquid gasket maker material.
While waiting for it to cure in the sun I decided to use my neighbors headlight restore kit and unfog my 07 Si headlights. Passenger taped up before, and drivers cleaned up after. Can actually see my yellow PIAA daytime running lights clearly now when behind someone. No more dull headlights.
Which kit did you use? I've done the old wet sand, polish and clear method, but the clear peeled in about a year. I'm looking for an alternative myself....
It uses a wax to protect after. I'm thinking about seeing if there is a spray UV coating that can be done instead of having to wax the lenses after every wash.
I was told it's the UV coating that is what yellows and fogs. And since you sand that coating away, it would be nice to put a new one on I would think.
Just read the protective wax in the 3M 39045 kit isn't meant to protect against UV.... Go figure.
So for now I'll pick up some turtle wax ICE wax. It has UV blockers and is supposed to be good for plastics.
Found another thread talking about diluting a Helmsman spar urethane with uv blockers down with mineral spirits and coating the lens with it.
Basically creating your own UV permanent coating.
04-16-2019, 08:59 AM
Re: Bringing life back to an abused 92 CDM VX
