managon_5

I recently just got a new short block for my d16z6 basically because my other one had "issues". Skipping the details, does anyone know what needs to be done in order to break in the new short block? Details or links explaining it please. I don't wanna take any chances on ruining anything after spending a bit of money.

slowhatchcali

is it newly rebuilt, or just new to you? if its not newly rebuilt, i dont think there's any break in procedures.. if it is then idk, hopefully someone else who knows chimes in

managon_5

The short block is newly rebuilt. The head has roughly 20,XXX on it. I've been trying to do some research and I've come across 2 methods of breaking a rebuilt motor in.

1.) running it hard

2.) taking it easy

the "running hard" method makes sense. at least from what the article i read said

96DelSol

I took it easx when rebuiding my crx.
I feel worried when its rebuild and im already power shifting imo

Nashville-ej8

i would say take it easy for the first 3000 miles or so

Murk 'EM

break it in how your going to drive the car.. if your gonna ***** pedle it on the street then drive it "easy" if your gonna race it the beat the hell out of it

the way you break a car in is the way its going to peform

if you break a car in "easy" then race it you have a better chance of breaking something then if you just beat the hell out of it from the getgo

some people will say other wise but from my experiances thats how it works

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

My buddy had a car built by Jasen Penmen; Jasen built it and tuned it on the dyno.(675whp on a conservative tune) Then street tuned it. When all was said and done, he told him it was ready to take to the track. There was no break-in period. I was also told to just get the car into 3rd gear and pull from 3 to 7 thousand and let it go back to three(on it's own) a few times, just to warm the rings. Then you are good to go. That was an engine build shop owner that told me that. So I would do the latter then the former on the way to the dyno. Just to be safe.

thumper64

I believe the break in procedures are different now that machine shops use a finer hone on the cylinders. I saw the "beat it from the start" type method and it makes sense also.

98civdx

run the cheepest oil you can find. no more then 5000 rpms for the first 1k miles, and just be really nice to it.
lots of people just say run it, and be nice for a few hours and drive it normally, but its a big risk

Oxymoron691

i think everyone will have a different opinion for this one. my first rule of thumb is one good heat cycle w/ cheap oil and filter. then drain and replace with an oem filter and good oil. i use rotella, nothins better than diesel oil lol sounds weird but i dont care. after that stay out of the top of the tach for a good couple hundred miles. if nothing sounds bad by then you should be good

sp00ledbseries

Dont beat on it and dont take it easy drive aggresive if that makes sense. and dont do any highway driving for a while stay in town constantly at different rpms

Oxymoron691

i would say highway driving would put less strain on a motor compared to stop and go trafic in town, but either way just drive it and do one or two 1000 mile oil changes with good oil and filters. a lil expensive but worth it in the long run. ive seen assembaly loob stay on a cam for... well lets just say way too long and you dont want that hangin around in you motor